bcgreen

I've looked for the torque spec on the crankcase bolt/nut torque figures, and apparently I am not looking hard enough.
Anyway I wanted to double check the bolts on the bottom of the case to see if they need to be retorqued. I have a some leakage on three of the bolts, small leaks but leaks nevertheless.
This is on a 2.7 RS engine.
Thanks

race911

The 8mm nylocks around the perimeter? Just the usual that you torque any 8mm fastener.

Guarantee you if there's leaking, fussing with the fasteners isn't going to solve any problems. (Been there with customers, oh, 365,897 times before..............)

bcgreen

I just checked the nut on the bolts and they are 13mm.

Peter Zimmermann

LOL!

To the OP, 17 lb/ft for 8mm hardware that's 13mm wrench size. Make sure that each nut has an aluminum sealing washer under it. But, as Ken posted, on a mag case what you're about to try probably won't help.

bcgreen

Thanks, I guess i will just drop the car back down to earth.

race911

I'll guess the best 10% of my mag engine customer base was worse than your bottom 10%........... I think there's still grime deep down in my pores from the mid-'90s.

Peter Zimmermann

I started wearing Latex gloves back in the '80s, sure glad that I did. Some of those mag case cars were downright nasty!

whalebird

Who needs latex gloves LOL. I found that a can of brake cleen seems to cure those mag case leaks quite nicely. I've just started developing this uncontrollable twitch...wonder why?

bcgreen

Aren't you making a bigger clean up, than letting the car mark it's spot? I know some good drugs that will take care of that twitch. Hmm I wonder if we've now, just come around full circle.

bcgreen

Maybe I got lucky, but 3 of the nuts that had leaked oil, show no signs of any moisture. When I went to retorque I noticed that the torque device showed that the nuts were at 12ft/lbs, so I retorqued it to 17ft/lbs.