Originally Posted by amber lamps (Post 10048609)

Now wait a sec.... I just fired up the google and found why that name braid looked familiar. Yep....I'm on to you know. :roflmao:

http://www.braidusa.com/Wheels/Comp/BZ/BZ.htm

Paul, is that you?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ff_euV7011k

Originally Posted by amber lamps (Post 10048647)

It's all becoming clearer. . . . :jumper:

http://www.teamilluminata.com/Racing/racing.htm


....but do you know how to use your tools? :eek:

Originally Posted by amber lamps (Post 10048672)

....and regarding your chin spoiler....It was not put there by the factory, so you are good. You don't even have proof that the dealership put it on. It was an afterthought added after it landed here at any rate. No tail, no chin. That's how it was.

and regarding the A/C compressor. :D:D:D:D I'll trade you your chin spoiler for my A/C compressor. Deal? :jumper: Seriously.

http://www.facebook.com/pages/Team-I...772?ref=stream

Originally Posted by mfyoung1086 (Post 10048944)

I think you stock suspension will be more than fine for rally cross... if you would doing stages I would suggestion remote resoviors as long stages will overheat a set of stock shocks, and handling with deminish

A Pcar has always made sense to me for rally for the simple fact that suspension wise you have tons of adjustments allowable from the factory. When I get around to a project very similar to this I would set the toe neutral, dial in a fair amount of positive caster, and set the camber more neutral as well. tuning and testing will sort it all out

Also having swingarms in the rear > IRS for the fact that the suspension travel of a swingarm doesn't affect the camber angle as badly as IRS will . The key will be tuning the camber of the front wheel to ensure the rough roughs and bumps don't equal wtf handling. I think your diaboilical handling right now might be due to a fair amount of postive camber achieved when the high was raised

Can't wait to hear how the first runs go!!!

Originally Posted by mfyoung1086 (Post 10049210)

You'd need adjustable caster plates for that for the front, rear is adjustable off the spring plates? I would have to look again to see

I would suggest getting a copy of 101 Project for your Porsche 911 its got some good tips in it for working on your pcar...

Originally Posted by team illuminata (Post 10049154)

That's great input. Thanks. This is a whole new world for me. How does one adjust caster?

Originally Posted by mfyoung1086 (Post 10049210)

You'd need adjustable caster plates for that for the front, rear is adjustable off the spring plates? I would have to look again to see

I would suggest getting a copy of 101 Project for your Porsche 911 its got some good tips in it for working on your pcar...

Originally Posted by team illuminata (Post 10049222)

I see. Castor plates are out till we move the car into Modified class.

Originally Posted by Ed Hughes (Post 10049247)

Caster and camber are adjusted at the top of the strut for the front. 911's arent too sensitive to caster changes, and I've never seen caster plates. There is no caster at the rear. Camber is adjusted via spring plates at rear, as is toe. Toe at front is via tie rods.

Originally Posted by team illuminata (Post 10049406)

Thanks. This is more like what I suspected actually.

Originally Posted by amber lamps (Post 10049438)

You may get some adjustment by elongating the bolt holes

Originally Posted by amber lamps (Post 10049438)

As Ed said. There are three bolts at the top of the strut. You may get some adjustment by elongating the bolt holes and nobody will no. :icon107:

Anyway, welcome to the club.

Originally Posted by Ed Hughes (Post 10049247)

Caster and camber are adjusted at the top of the strut for the front. 911's arent too sensitive to caster changes, and I've never seen caster plates. There is no caster at the rear. Camber is adjusted via spring plates at rear, as is toe. Toe at front is via tie rods.

Originally Posted by mfyoung1086 (Post 10049783)

Really?

http://www.elephantracing.com/suspen...amberplate.htm

I think Rebel makes a pair as well but I'm too lazy to look

Also Ken, yes tires will make a huge difference, but a neutral suspension setup is very important in rally.... This is nice sticky tarmac where dialing in some negative camber is really beneficial, negative camber will just make the car more twitchy as the suspension reloads over larger bumps, and since you don't have 4wd to kept the nose pointed will make the car no fun... Also completely agree with adding a brake bias, very importante step.

Originally Posted by race911 (Post 10049467)

Until you run out of room to move the strut top itself.

Bottom line is that for your purposes alignment (or suspension itself) deviating much from stock won't really matter. All you're looking for is predictable handling, given your available traction. And that will come from: 1. tires, 2. tires, and 3. tires. (But I'll guess you know that already.)

One other thing that will probably blow your mind versus the Subaru will be braking. Lack of ABS will take getting used to on low traction surfaces. Not sure if you can move bias rearward, given your rules package. But front lockup, when you go over that edge, can turn nasty as your initial understeer magnifies, turning into pretty wild oversteer. Quickly. But that's what a 911 is all about, isn't it?