First (Big) Project - Brake advice needed on '87 Cab
07-10-2012, 09:56 PM
#1
Pro
Thread Starter
First (Big) Project - Brake advice needed on '87 Cab
It's been about 2 weeks with my new '87 Cab. The car is growing on me tremendously. However, twice so far the brakes locked up on a relatively hard stop. First time, the rear locked up, second time the front locked up and smoked the tires. The car did stop quickly and stayed straight
I decided to tackle the brakes first - nothing seems to be overtly wrong – they are spongy -no firm feel – and I’m betting that I have less than optimal performance. Front calipers were done about 10k miles ago by PO. Take a look at the rotors below.
I've never done brakes before - other than pads - but given a freed day, I don't see anything too difficult about changing the fluid, pads and rotors.
Although I may try and do an occasional DE, the car is for spirited street driving.
So here's my shopping list and questions:
Pelican:
1. DOT Stainless Brake Lines (4x) (PEL911-SSDOT1)
2. 2 Liters ATE Super Blue Fluid
3. Motive Black Label Power Bleeder (PEL-0109)
4. 11mm flared nut wrench
Automotion
1. Powerslot Rotors
Questions:
Can’t decide on pads. Was thinking about BHP from Pelican. I think the part numbers are M Caliper BHP-S0910 for the Rear and A Caliper BHP-S0011 for the Front – but not sure.
Are 2 liters of brake fluid sufficient to flush and fill ?
Should I throw in some speed bleeders ?
Goal is to have really solid performing/confidence building brakes.
Thanks in advance
I decided to tackle the brakes first - nothing seems to be overtly wrong – they are spongy -no firm feel – and I’m betting that I have less than optimal performance. Front calipers were done about 10k miles ago by PO. Take a look at the rotors below.
I've never done brakes before - other than pads - but given a freed day, I don't see anything too difficult about changing the fluid, pads and rotors.
Although I may try and do an occasional DE, the car is for spirited street driving.
So here's my shopping list and questions:
Pelican:
1. DOT Stainless Brake Lines (4x) (PEL911-SSDOT1)
2. 2 Liters ATE Super Blue Fluid
3. Motive Black Label Power Bleeder (PEL-0109)
4. 11mm flared nut wrench
Automotion
1. Powerslot Rotors
Questions:
Can’t decide on pads. Was thinking about BHP from Pelican. I think the part numbers are M Caliper BHP-S0910 for the Rear and A Caliper BHP-S0011 for the Front – but not sure.
Are 2 liters of brake fluid sufficient to flush and fill ?
Should I throw in some speed bleeders ?
Goal is to have really solid performing/confidence building brakes.
Thanks in advance
07-11-2012, 09:33 AM
#2
Team Owner
Actually outside of not being used for a bit those rotors dont look bad at all. I cant even see a lip on the edge of the rotor at all. Are you sure it isnt just the nut behind the wheel that isnt the issue ? 
I do agree with your assesment of the brake lines though. I went OE factory non SS lines because i like to keep an eye on the condition and you cant see under the steel sheath. like coke and pepsi i just prefer OE rubber.
pads i have no clue as this is not my area of knowledge but lots of guys will chime in with recomendations.
I do agree with your assesment of the brake lines though. I went OE factory non SS lines because i like to keep an eye on the condition and you cant see under the steel sheath. like coke and pepsi i just prefer OE rubber.
pads i have no clue as this is not my area of knowledge but lots of guys will chime in with recomendations.
07-11-2012, 12:43 PM
#4
Burning Brakes
Yes, they should be smooth. I just redid my '84 with Zimmermans, and the old ones were very smooth, but had an apreciable and measurable lip, so I went ahead and replaced them, new pads, new caliber seals, Speedbleeders, stainless steel lines, new parking brake shoes, new front wheel bearings while I was there.....
I was a little apprehensive about how the brakes would work since it has been about 40 years since I last did a brake job.
They are as good as my much newer Acura and better than my BMW.
If I were you, I would definitely replace the caliber piston seals. That will give you a chance to check on any rust on the pistons and binding, especially since you had some lockups.
I was a little apprehensive about how the brakes would work since it has been about 40 years since I last did a brake job.
They are as good as my much newer Acura and better than my BMW. If I were you, I would definitely replace the caliber piston seals. That will give you a chance to check on any rust on the pistons and binding, especially since you had some lockups.
