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Motronic, AFM, Air, Fuel, Lamda, etc.

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Old 03-31-2012, 08:42 PM
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rusnak
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I also forgot to mention that you have to calibrate the LM-2 in open air. Also, the O2 sensor will not get anywhere near hot enough without driving the car down the road a piece. I tape the cables and stuff to the rear fender with painter's tape, and safety wire the sensor cable to the fender stay, and drive with the LM2 on my lap. You'll get some good data that way, just drive safely.
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Old 03-31-2012, 08:59 PM
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Amber Gramps
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Rusnak, forgot you had two bungholes.

http://youtu.be/n4LgEkIgdmE
Old 03-31-2012, 09:08 PM
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Doug, your Youtube skillz are .....disturbing. haha!
Old 03-31-2012, 10:44 PM
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Joe6pack
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Originally Posted by Lorenfb
"If you close the throttle plate, the engine idles richer. If you open it, the engine idles leaner."

No, the throttle plate just allows more air and then it's the AFM that compensates
for the added air by signaling the DME ECM to increase the fuel quantity,
basically the AFR remains unchanged (within a small range).

Wasn't disagreeing. This is basically what I said. I was referring to a carbureted non-computerized engine. Yes, the DME compensates.

Again, changing the idle mixture screw will not affect the responsiveness
off idle. Just look at the size of the air hole by the mixture screw in the AFM
compared to the size of the butterfy opening in the throttle body. Once the
butterfly opens, the hole in the AFM is inconsequential.
Thus my original question. Maybe I'm imagining things. Like I said there doesn't seem to be much of a difference between the different settings, but I do feel like there is some.

I'll probably go back to 14.7, now that I have played with it a bit, but I just wanted to know if there was a setting that was perhaps better for performance ( perhaps at the expense of mileage/emissions). I guess the answer is, go with the factory baseline settings.

Thank you for your replies.



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