The Mystery of Horn Removal
#1
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Not a mystery. I know one of my horns is crapped out and I have a replacement (or repair) plan.
The mystery. I have studied Bentley, done forum searches and eyeballed the horns from a lift.
*My eyeball is unsure ;
*Bentley says take off the entire bumper
; and
*various contributors say -
I'm starting with the easy stuff on a list that's now down to a dozen items and I'd value your advice.
The mystery. I have studied Bentley, done forum searches and eyeballed the horns from a lift.
*My eyeball is unsure ;
*Bentley says take off the entire bumper
![manual](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/rtfm.gif)
*various contributors say -
remove the right wheel and wheel well liner, or
get an 18" extension and remove the horns from below; or
remove the fascia piece behind the compression rubber (and then the rubber) to get to the horns; or
disconnect and reinstall new horns in the left front wheel well.
I prefer an effective 15-minute method to an equally effective 90-minute method when there's a choice and I'm always prepared to take the easy (or smart) way out based on good experience. Have you experience to say what's the best approach? It's a simple enough thing to fix a bum beeper but, new to the 911, I want to get it done right and move along to more interesting projects like eating lunch, walking the dog or changing oil. get an 18" extension and remove the horns from below; or
remove the fascia piece behind the compression rubber (and then the rubber) to get to the horns; or
disconnect and reinstall new horns in the left front wheel well.
I'm starting with the easy stuff on a list that's now down to a dozen items and I'd value your advice.
Last edited by Mister Moo; 03-21-2012 at 03:59 PM.
#3
I haddah Google dat
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I don't even do that. I get two long extensions, and a 13mm socket, and just take the horn bracket off, along with the horns still attached. Disconnect the wires, and done.
Wear eyegoggles to keep dirt from falling in your eyes, and close your mouth.
15 minutes, or thereabouts.
Wear eyegoggles to keep dirt from falling in your eyes, and close your mouth.
15 minutes, or thereabouts.
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Moo, you have the oil cooler in the way, but with a mini-mag you'll be able to locate the fastener that holds the whole mess up there. To diagnose, disconnect one horn and push the horn button!
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I need to work on mine too ... I think! So here is a related and relevant challenge ... What is the horn supposed to sound like? One or two tones? Post up your horns and let us hear them.
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Jack up front and jackstands forward. As advised, it was a simple job from below; there were no obstructions on this '87 and no need to remove a tire, wheel well liner, front bumper, etc. A 10mm (IIRC) nut came off with a socket on some combination of long extension, short extension and adapter. Faceshield was a good idea, thx. There was as more time involved getting the car jacked up than in removing/replacing the horns.
The high (black plastic hooter French made - Mixo/Stritone) was fine and the low has so far defied repair. Replacement was a pair of Wolo's for $20-something from Pep Boys. While in no way exceptional they provide a tuned, utilitarian honk. An independent german-only repair shop offered to replace the horns for $235. I assume this meant the original plutonium-powered horn with mother-of-pearl bodies.
With each fix I am mildly conflicted about how hard (or if) I should try to retain the integrity of originality. In a few months I already conceded some electrical bric-a-brak and two horns (no idea if the pair I removed is OEM - I would have expected all-steel "Bosch", not mostly-plastic "Made in France"). I look at the original A/C, fuse blocks, relay-free headlamp circuit and so on and think, "Reliability trumps originality." I drive the car at least 1,000-miles/mo. No plans for concours d'elegance.
The high (black plastic hooter French made - Mixo/Stritone) was fine and the low has so far defied repair. Replacement was a pair of Wolo's for $20-something from Pep Boys. While in no way exceptional they provide a tuned, utilitarian honk. An independent german-only repair shop offered to replace the horns for $235. I assume this meant the original plutonium-powered horn with mother-of-pearl bodies.
With each fix I am mildly conflicted about how hard (or if) I should try to retain the integrity of originality. In a few months I already conceded some electrical bric-a-brak and two horns (no idea if the pair I removed is OEM - I would have expected all-steel "Bosch", not mostly-plastic "Made in France"). I look at the original A/C, fuse blocks, relay-free headlamp circuit and so on and think, "Reliability trumps originality." I drive the car at least 1,000-miles/mo. No plans for concours d'elegance.
#14
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Some parts of the electrical system seems to be an afterthought, especially parts made in France.
One modification that should be done is to add an inline fuse for the dashlights to protect the whole circuit
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsc...tallation.html
One modification that should be done is to add an inline fuse for the dashlights to protect the whole circuit
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsc...tallation.html