Oil change, when?
#1
Thread Starter
SPAM addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 30,276
Likes: 20
From: Acadia National Park, Northeast Harbor, Maine
Oil change, when?
I have just driven my 911 2200 miles home and am wondering if I should change the oil now or wait until it hits 3000 miles? I will continue to drive it on nice days until the heavy snow season hits.
Also, Kevin Wheeler of KMS Motorsports in Florida used Castrol GTX 20/50 as the oil of choice and said that using any of the more expensive oils is overkill unless one is using the car for racing. What say you?
Also, Kevin Wheeler of KMS Motorsports in Florida used Castrol GTX 20/50 as the oil of choice and said that using any of the more expensive oils is overkill unless one is using the car for racing. What say you?
#2
Do you know when it was last changed? Are you 100% sure? If it has been a while or you're not sure, just change the oil for some peace of mind.
I use Brad Penn 20w50 in my SC. There are a bunch of other brands out there, just make sure the ZDDP levels are decent in the oil.
I use Brad Penn 20w50 in my SC. There are a bunch of other brands out there, just make sure the ZDDP levels are decent in the oil.
#4
Did you happen to run any fuel treatment/injector cleaner on your trip ?
I'd change oil now just to be on the safe side. I'm also a Brad Penn user, just put in a 15/40
for the winter, doesn't get very cold here in Louisiana. I use the 20/50 for summer.
I'd change oil now just to be on the safe side. I'm also a Brad Penn user, just put in a 15/40
for the winter, doesn't get very cold here in Louisiana. I use the 20/50 for summer.
#5
+1 I have read most the oil threads out there and the consensus is Brad Penn.
I would change the oil, depending on how it looks I would also go for a fresh air filter, fuel filter, distro cap and rotor, oil filter, and plugs while you are at it. It is maybe $60-$100 worth of parts and in the long run will make a huge difference.
Regards
Dave
I would change the oil, depending on how it looks I would also go for a fresh air filter, fuel filter, distro cap and rotor, oil filter, and plugs while you are at it. It is maybe $60-$100 worth of parts and in the long run will make a huge difference.
Regards
Dave
#6
if you are going to change it .. but the techron in the gas as mentioned .. burn through it for a tank then change the oil.. may as well do that of you're going to change the oil anyway
#7
For the type of trip you just made, 2200 mi in three days, the oil will be the least effected. If the oil was fresh at the start of the trip you should be good for 5000. Start and stop, short trips, driving when the oil does not get up to opperating temp is the hardest and would warrant shorter intervals, such as 3000 mi. I use Brad Penn 20/40 and when I make west coast drives, ~4500 mi round trip, I will typically drive another ~2K mi before changing, which is usually more time than mile dependent.
Trending Topics
#8
I'd change the oil and filter after adding some fuel additive (Techron, BG, etc) run through a tank, just as Ice suggested. I wiouldn't waste time on trying to figure out when or if something was done. Now is the time to start your baseline,..on your schedule,...this way you know (without question) what-where-when-who-which.....blah-blah-blah.
Equally, I would go with MasterDave's suggestion of parts,...again, to start a nice baseline "beginning"...I'd want to know what the plugs look like anywaze...
If the question of "when" is more of a cyclical question,...for me, it's every 3K miles (religiously).
Best to you!
Doyle
Equally, I would go with MasterDave's suggestion of parts,...again, to start a nice baseline "beginning"...I'd want to know what the plugs look like anywaze...
If the question of "when" is more of a cyclical question,...for me, it's every 3K miles (religiously).
Best to you!
Doyle
#9
Thread Starter
SPAM addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 30,276
Likes: 20
From: Acadia National Park, Northeast Harbor, Maine
I'd change the oil and filter after adding some fuel additive (Techron, BG, etc) run through a tank, just as Ice suggested. I wiouldn't waste time on trying to figure out when or if something was done. Now is the time to start your baseline,..on your schedule,...this way you know (without question) what-where-when-who-which.....blah-blah-blah.
Equally, I would go with MasterDave's suggestion of parts,...again, to start a nice baseline "beginning"...I'd want to know what the plugs look like anywaze...
If the question of "when" is more of a cyclical question,...for me, it's every 3K miles (religiously).
Best to you!
Doyle
Equally, I would go with MasterDave's suggestion of parts,...again, to start a nice baseline "beginning"...I'd want to know what the plugs look like anywaze...
If the question of "when" is more of a cyclical question,...for me, it's every 3K miles (religiously).
Best to you!
Doyle
Boy this is starting to get complicated. It's almost like you have to get to know your car inside/out! Maybe I'll go back to my 76 Corolla!
#10
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist
Site Sponsor
Rennlist Member
Rennlist
Site Sponsor
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 6,567
Likes: 1
From: Merrimack, NH
I change mine once a year before I park it for the winter. I use Amsoil Syn. 20-50 and I have had no porblem. However, Cast. 20-50 is fine too. Don't go by miles unless you are doing 10K+ a year. More important to do it before storage hits.
#11
Thread Starter
SPAM addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 30,276
Likes: 20
From: Acadia National Park, Northeast Harbor, Maine
I think I'll change it after I get new tires and a battery for it here in the next week or two. Plus storage woes are bound to hit soon!
#12
Replace the spark plug wires also. The deterioration of the wires sneaks up on you and replacement has dramatic effect. My last change was after about 6 years/30k miles from prior replacement, and I probably waited too long on my 1985.
#13
I think the only thing I didn't touch on my 89 (when I first got her) was the coil (had 2 Braziian's from PP but could not make myself touch a perfectly working German Coil that can't seem to be had these days)...all else was freshened...no doubt aging spark plug wires won't give you top performance (at least, I wouldn't think).
One can measure them,..but won't garner all compared to when it's placed under a load situation.... I've always looked forward to seeing the blue firing when she's shot with water, at night,.....never had the priviledge,..but it sure looks cool from the pics! Still,..NOT a good thing.
Just check your PO's records for when they were last changed,..go from there (maybe there's some date stamps on 'em, as well)..
Best,
Doyle
One can measure them,..but won't garner all compared to when it's placed under a load situation.... I've always looked forward to seeing the blue firing when she's shot with water, at night,.....never had the priviledge,..but it sure looks cool from the pics! Still,..NOT a good thing.
Just check your PO's records for when they were last changed,..go from there (maybe there's some date stamps on 'em, as well)..
Best,
Doyle
#14
Jeez, might as well do brakes, adjust valves and do tie rods too. He may indeed need wires, but we don't know the service history of the car. There are a lot of things that could need replacement on a 20+ year old car. To just arbitrarily say "REPLACE" something is silly.
#15
Didn't your PPI note what was looking good and those things at 50% etc so you know what/where to start your maint program?
However, I immed. changed all of my fluids (except brake) so as to have a 'start point' for future maint ref..also, adj valves, new belts, rotor/cap...abt the 10 to 15 K yearly deal.
However, I immed. changed all of my fluids (except brake) so as to have a 'start point' for future maint ref..also, adj valves, new belts, rotor/cap...abt the 10 to 15 K yearly deal.