Sputtering accelaration ONLY during first 3 seconds of driving.
#1
Racer
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Sputtering accelaration ONLY during first 3 seconds of driving.
I have a 1986 3.2 engine. I live in Southern Cali.
- I start the car. No problems. Starts right away... always.
- idles fine
- When I drive off, there is a hesitation for a couple seconds. I loose power for a split second, then it goes back to normal
- After that everything is and stays fine
- Some days (maybe 10% of the time), the hesitation is not there. I'd like to think on warmer days. But I haven't been able to confirm the pattern on when the hesitation doesn't happen.
Any clues?
Marlon
- I start the car. No problems. Starts right away... always.
- idles fine
- When I drive off, there is a hesitation for a couple seconds. I loose power for a split second, then it goes back to normal
- After that everything is and stays fine
- Some days (maybe 10% of the time), the hesitation is not there. I'd like to think on warmer days. But I haven't been able to confirm the pattern on when the hesitation doesn't happen.
Any clues?
Marlon
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#8
I had a 1986 911 that did the exact same thing your car is doing. The car had one previous owner and he claimed the car did that from new. Nothing would solve the issue, but it was only one hickup under acceleration when the car was cold and that was it. Otherwise, the 911 ran flawlessly all the time (I miss that car!). I changed plugs, cap, rotor, all the filters, plug wires, etc. and the car always did that.
#10
This could be a number of things like plugs, wires, distributor cap/rotor, coil, ECU.....
This one will be difficult unless somebody offers an experience-based solution.
After you have ruled out the basic maintenance items, you may want to consider the AFM.
The tracks the AFM uses for feedback into the ECU can get worn due to contacts riding on them. I suspect the car spends (or has spent) a fair amount of time idling and coming off-idle and tracks may be worn. Worn tracks can send improper information to the ECU and affect mixture and ign timing.
There are test procedures available to troubleshoot this issue. I suggest you exhaust all other possibilities before pursuing the AFM route due to its cost and potential downsides in case of modification.
This one will be difficult unless somebody offers an experience-based solution.
After you have ruled out the basic maintenance items, you may want to consider the AFM.
The tracks the AFM uses for feedback into the ECU can get worn due to contacts riding on them. I suspect the car spends (or has spent) a fair amount of time idling and coming off-idle and tracks may be worn. Worn tracks can send improper information to the ECU and affect mixture and ign timing.
There are test procedures available to troubleshoot this issue. I suggest you exhaust all other possibilities before pursuing the AFM route due to its cost and potential downsides in case of modification.
#12
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@ Woot: we got a 328Xi Sports Wagon. We test drove BMW, Audi and Merc. I liked BMW the best by far. Very tight handling. It's got active 4 wheel drive and the sports package (sport tuned suspension, seats, paddle shifters, etc). Acceleration is decent (inline 6), but the handling is awesome. Doesn't feel like a wagon at all. We're very impressed. Plus it has widescreen HD navi My wife loves the extra space and zippy drive experience.
@ Jay H: that's good to know. I'll prob hold off fixing it, cuz it's such a minor thing.
@ Ivan: that's what I was inclined to replace as well... the O2 sensor.
@ Scott: unless it gets worse, I'm staying away from the AMF
@ Jay H: that's good to know. I'll prob hold off fixing it, cuz it's such a minor thing.
@ Ivan: that's what I was inclined to replace as well... the O2 sensor.
@ Scott: unless it gets worse, I'm staying away from the AMF
#13
Parts Specialist
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Scott, I have a MAF set up, chip, air filter and book telling me what it all is and how to set it up... I have been waiting for a baseline dyno run for well over a month as the Dynos seem to be booked by big tuners for weeks on end....i dont want to change it and loose power so I want to know where I am at, then where I end up
also have a set of SSi's with all the tin, hoses and heater connections plus a 2 into 1 Monty muffler
also have a set of SSi's with all the tin, hoses and heater connections plus a 2 into 1 Monty muffler
#14
Rennlist Member
Mine's starting to do the same,...this was AFTER I touched the damned idle RPM adjustment, attempting to get my targeted 880 RPMs (from it's VERY comfortable 800 RPM setting-for years)...I'm thinking that this adjustment somehow is related to mix? Maybe the GD chip (Perf. Auth)...cold starts (runs) bounce some (now) before leveling out.......THEN,..VERY intermittently, the hesitation shows for a brief time while depressing the accelerator.....happened when it's warm, as well....otherwise VERY smooth through to the rev limit....time for the gas meter (I think) to verify my frikin' mix.....
Will be following this....
BEST!
Doyle
Will be following this....
BEST!
Doyle
#15
Drifting
I had similiar symptons once from a bad tank of gas. I needed to put in multiple treatments and kept refilling at quarterly incriments, until all the poison was out. Since then, no issues and shall never return to that station!