How does the 3.2 (honestly) handle wet climates / pavement?
#16
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I have all seasons and the handling is not bad on wet roads but is definitely poor on ice. Having said that I am sure the handling would be better with a change over to dedicated winter tires. I would still be hesitant to use the car when it freezes. I did not get winter tires on my 3.2 as my current winter sled is my 997
#17
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I have all seasons and the handling is not bad on wet roads but is definitely poor on ice. Having said that I am sure the handling would be better with a change over to dedicated winter tires. I would still be hesitant to use the car when it freezes. I did not get winter tires on my 3.2 as my current winter sled is my 997
I grew up in Northern Alberta. I know all about driving in the absolute worst winter conditions for the majority of the year. The only (and I mean ONLY) way to obtain real traction on ice (traction that is anything remotely similar to dry pave) is to use studded tires.
That's including the very best 4WD snow-goers like Subaru's, Audi's, heavy duty trucks, etc.
Good winter tires are a huge help, for sure, but no matter how you shake it, ice is ice.
That's also another reason why I moved out to the Island...
At most we have one week of snow (at the very most) per year, aside from the odd 10-year anomolies. And that's when my 4Runner comes in real handy
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Well guys... looks like I'm arriving at a decision. I think it's time to acquire a 3.2
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Cheers!
And thanks everyone!
-Chris
#18
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A point about tires on a 3.2. The rear tires will wear down at about twice the rate of the front tires---it can sneak up on you. On a wet surface, worn tires on the rear can be a problem.
#19
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My previous tires on the TT (P Zeros) were particularly bald-inclined. By the time the rears were down to about 10% the fronts still had about 65%
I find the PS2's hold up a little better. Still way more wear on the rears though...
-Chris
#20
Drifting
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The car is fine - the weak link is the driver 98% of the time. The 2nd greatest weak link is tires - Do some autcrosses - maybe a DE event or two - know what it feel like with the big hammer hanging over the rear engine and when the momentum starts swinging. Then learn to use that for good, not evil...
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#21
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I've been driving my car daily in North Carolina since 2003. We get around 50 inches of rain a year, and temps get down into the low 20's in the winter with the occassional snow or ice storm. I just take it easy in inclement weather and have never had a problem (except for that drip at the front corner of the targa top). I've driven it home on light snow or ice a few times and did just fine as long as I took it slow. I've also drive in hurricane rain (measured in inches per hour) with no problem.
#22
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I had a 3.2 Carrera with all-weather tires (Ed owns it now) in Seattle - no worries driving it in the rain or snow. I owned an SC in the 90s and I took it skiing in Mammoth, CA several times. I also had a 996 with all weather tires in the PNW; I took it snowboarding at Crystal and Stevens Pass a few times (Ed also used to own it). These are great cars in low grip conditions. I love the rear traction.
For inspiration, see an even earlier 911 below: 68 Monte Carlo Rally with Vic Elford driving and David Stone navigating. ;-)
For inspiration, see an even earlier 911 below: 68 Monte Carlo Rally with Vic Elford driving and David Stone navigating. ;-)
#23
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I've driven 911's and rear drive Porsches (and other rear drivers) in monsoons and flooding conditions. Driven them in snow and blizzards. In horrible heat and sub zero conditions. I've never had a problem so far after 20+ years of this once I figured out:
It's the tires and the proper ventilation.
In summer I refuse to let any of the tires drop below 5/32nd's of an inch and winter driving is always done with dedicated winter tires with at least 7/32nds of tread depth. It's too late by the time the tires reach the wear bars. No tire is effective with that short of tread depth. The difference in braking performance is huge in the wet between 4/32nd and 2/32nd.
Also, winter tires are not just for us in the snow belt. If it drops below 45 degrees and you have cold, raining conditions, you wouldn't believe how much grip you have with a winter tire verses even an all season tire. Winter tires are exceptional in colder weather, even in dry conditions.
Water (either frozen or not frozen) doesn't compress. At all. So, you need decent tread depth and reduced speeds to allow that tire to pump the water out beneath it and decent tread depth to allow the tire to shed snow.
Michelin PS2's are outstanding rain tires with the proper tread depth.
911's are incredible in poor conditions if you have the proper tires and correctly working ventilation. With working A/C and working heat, you can defrost the entire car in seconds. Yes, even an old air cooled car.
I always say that a new set of tires is a lot cheaper than the body shop repair bill if you drive on well worn tires...
It's the tires and the proper ventilation.
In summer I refuse to let any of the tires drop below 5/32nd's of an inch and winter driving is always done with dedicated winter tires with at least 7/32nds of tread depth. It's too late by the time the tires reach the wear bars. No tire is effective with that short of tread depth. The difference in braking performance is huge in the wet between 4/32nd and 2/32nd.
Also, winter tires are not just for us in the snow belt. If it drops below 45 degrees and you have cold, raining conditions, you wouldn't believe how much grip you have with a winter tire verses even an all season tire. Winter tires are exceptional in colder weather, even in dry conditions.
Water (either frozen or not frozen) doesn't compress. At all. So, you need decent tread depth and reduced speeds to allow that tire to pump the water out beneath it and decent tread depth to allow the tire to shed snow.
Michelin PS2's are outstanding rain tires with the proper tread depth.
911's are incredible in poor conditions if you have the proper tires and correctly working ventilation. With working A/C and working heat, you can defrost the entire car in seconds. Yes, even an old air cooled car.
I always say that a new set of tires is a lot cheaper than the body shop repair bill if you drive on well worn tires...
#24
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I always say that a new set of tires is a lot cheaper than the body shop repair bill if you drive on well worn tires...
I will post pictures when the 3.2 arrives. Now I've gotta arrange for a PPI and the other fun stuff...
Thanks again everyone
-Chris
#25
Drifting
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No problems in the rain or roof leaks on my Targa.
I am more concerned about the other drivers in the rain with their SUV's not being able to see the brake lights on the Porsche.
I am more concerned about the other drivers in the rain with their SUV's not being able to see the brake lights on the Porsche.
#27
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Yes a 968 is a great car. Thats going to be hard to beat for a DD. Getting into an aircooled car will change your outlook for the better though. Any 3.2 will get you where you need to go in poor weather..think VW beetle. Remember the VW beetle commercial from the early 70s; "how does the snow plow driver get to the snow plow?"
I live where harsh winter weather occurs on occasion and drive my 924S through it all for the most part. However, In my mind, the second best inclement weather vehicle on the planet(other than a jeep or Bronco) is an 89 - 94 964(aircooled) Carrera 4.
Welcome to Rennlist.
I live where harsh winter weather occurs on occasion and drive my 924S through it all for the most part. However, In my mind, the second best inclement weather vehicle on the planet(other than a jeep or Bronco) is an 89 - 94 964(aircooled) Carrera 4.
Welcome to Rennlist.
#28
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There is really no difference on how a car handles in the wet or dry (or on ice), things just happen at a much lower speed. Learn how the car handles at the limit on different pavement, and drive accordingly.
#29
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One point I didn't see mentioned at all
A 911, older than a 964, does not have ABS.
You will need to rethink your braking techniques. If you've spend most of your time driving ABS equipped cars, this may be something to consider. This is not to say I would expect you to lock the brakes every time you drive it and crash.. but it does mean you need to pay a little more attention.
Your 996 had ABS. Your 968 has ABS. Do you other cars have ABS?
A 911, older than a 964, does not have ABS.
You will need to rethink your braking techniques. If you've spend most of your time driving ABS equipped cars, this may be something to consider. This is not to say I would expect you to lock the brakes every time you drive it and crash.. but it does mean you need to pay a little more attention.
Your 996 had ABS. Your 968 has ABS. Do you other cars have ABS?