G50 Disassembly
#1
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
G50 Disassembly
After not having any time to spend on the transmission for quite a while, I finally got myself a puller and got Reverse & 5th out of the way, then separated the case halves.
Problem is that the case only comes apart about 1.5 inches before it fetches up on something in the general ares of the shift rod.
Any of you guys pull apart a G50 before?
Anyone know what is keeping the case from coming completely off?
Thanks
Problem is that the case only comes apart about 1.5 inches before it fetches up on something in the general ares of the shift rod.
Any of you guys pull apart a G50 before?
Anyone know what is keeping the case from coming completely off?
Thanks
#2
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Dan over at the PP forum answered the question.
I had not removed the pin that actuates the reverse switch.
All apart now.
The mating surfaces of the case are oxidized, and the gaskets just lifted right off, no adhesion at all.
This explains why the thing was seeping oil.
I had not removed the pin that actuates the reverse switch.
All apart now.
The mating surfaces of the case are oxidized, and the gaskets just lifted right off, no adhesion at all.
This explains why the thing was seeping oil.
#4
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Hi Ed,
Back when I was building Hondas in the 80's I rebuilt a couple, even swapped some gears around, so it not completely unfamiliar.
Besides, I'm as far as I'm going to go with it.
I'm not tearing it down completely, just far enough to replace the gaskets.
The only thing I will not do is mess around with the backlash on the ring & pinion. From what I understand, getting it right is a bit of an art, and getting it wrong makes quite a mess. :-|
Here is a pic with the case removed.
I was happy to see very little wear and no metallic bits in the lubricant.
Back when I was building Hondas in the 80's I rebuilt a couple, even swapped some gears around, so it not completely unfamiliar.
Besides, I'm as far as I'm going to go with it.
I'm not tearing it down completely, just far enough to replace the gaskets.
The only thing I will not do is mess around with the backlash on the ring & pinion. From what I understand, getting it right is a bit of an art, and getting it wrong makes quite a mess. :-|
Here is a pic with the case removed.
I was happy to see very little wear and no metallic bits in the lubricant.
#7
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Do you have the same recommendation for the G15? I have a leaking one, but it operates perfectly. I will have it and the motor out though, so I am tempted to try to fix the leak.
#13
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Thread Starter
Hi Matt,
Checked out your web site. I didn't realize at first that you do this for a living.
I can see how it would be really easy to use too much of this stuff.
What diameter bead do you lay down when applying the 574?
Thanks
Checked out your web site. I didn't realize at first that you do this for a living.
I can see how it would be really easy to use too much of this stuff.
What diameter bead do you lay down when applying the 574?
Thanks
#15
Rennlist Member
Matt is THE man. Be careful, as using a good brush to spread the 574 is important, and making sure a bristle or dirt (and nice flat surfaces) are part of the mix. It really comes down to the thickness of the spread coat, not the bead, IMO.
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