whalebird

The pic in that diagram is for a 3.6, presumeably a 964. It is basically required on that car to remove the side tins(along with muffler and heater ducting)for valve adjust and spark plugs as per a major service. 964 30K service is more involved(read $$$) than the earlier cars, but every bit as easy.

Ed Hughes

OK, I've done my share of valve adjusts in and out of the car. First of all, all the talk about how hard it is, backside method, etc is overblown. It aint that tough, and I find it an enjoyable couple of hours with the car.

I find it tough to figure out how taking the time to remove some of the tin will improve access to the intakes? That's OK, I'm often quite slow to figure stuff out.

whalebird

No doubt Ed. Valves are really easy on one of these cars. A flathead, wrench, factory feeler gauge and rag are all you need to do it right. After the second time, it's a "cruise control" job.

Amber Gramps

OK, it's doable, but not at all needed. Heck, I can do it the old fashioned way, so I'm thinking everyone else can to.

rusnak

For sure, with engine dropped, valve adjustment is going to be a walk in the park. No power yoga type contortions required.

Amber Gramps

This thread needs an update as work is progressing.

All 5 tins have been soaked with etching jell, sandblasted, welded and re-tapped as needed, and painted. The one that was bad was trimmed with tin snips to remove the seriously bad edge. I'll be using stainless steel bolts and washers found at Ace Hardware. The motor mount has also been prepped and painted to match. Love all the hardware that cleaned up so nice.

I've put all the bolts to soak in parts dip for a couple days and found that what I thought was horrid corrosion was most likely just old gold anodizing. Every nut bold above 6mm will be re-used because under the gold anodizing was beautiful and thick chrome. Every bolt on this thing is gorgeous. I went from totally bummed out to totally stoked. What was nightmare looking is now looking like it's made it through the first resurrection. Even my lower shock mount bolts that looked like they were coated with baby puke are stunning hard show-quality chrome. Even the studs and nuts on my chain covers look brand new.

Permatex 82138-6PK Naval Jelly Rust Remover, a small paint brush, Simple Green, an assortment of extremely soft wire wheels, a boatload of Q-tips, and my brother's sand blaster (and 200 lbs of playground sand) have done all the work. We've had several days of 108* temps that have made for great painting, but have severally limited my hours of operations.

Every evening I've gone out and mounted my 3/8 drill to an easy chair with C-clamps and sat there polishing crap off all the nuts, bolts, clamps, and brackets to the point that all the hardware looks brand new.

Fortunately I have a new set of the orange rubber boots for the heat exchangers sitting around somewhere so I won't have that expense. At this point I'm into this $18 in paint, $16 in sand, $21 in nuts, bolts, and washers. Everything else was already in the shed.

This is what the worst of the tins looks like after 24 hours of Permatex. After sand blasting and six coats of paint it looks as good as new. Well, good enough to weather the no funds storm.

I am totally excited to show off the finished product.

Ed Hughes

Doug, I'd stick with plated automotive fasteners. S/S and Aluminum are a bad mix of dissimilar metals.

Amber Gramps

Really Ed? I've got plated out the wazoo around here. . . could do 2 or 3 sets of tins.

Ed Hughes

Yes, bad combo-lots of corrosion forms in S/S-Alum contact area.

500

I think the original hardware was cadmium plated, with a chromate coating, which had/has a gold color, there was no chrome "underneath". You may just have removed the chromate coating and are now seeing the silver cadmium. On the other hand, if they were cleaned aggressively, then you may have stripped off the plating and just be seeing really clean steel.

Amber Gramps

There are some parts that have yellow zinc ie. the ICV, the majority of the small nuts and bolts, and some that have gold anodizing ie. the ICV bracket, deck lid latch and striker, fan strap, etc. . There is a big difference in how the two coatings weathered with time. The zinc may have faded, but the anodizing decomposed.

Whatever it is underneath, it has had several days to rust, oxidize, or evaporate and it has done none of that. The first thing I did when the parts came out of the cleaner was give everything a good dose of water to see if it was going to rust. Nothing even tarnished, so I'm putting it together as is. . . Naked.

It all looks far better today than it did two weeks ago. I'll take pictures tonight.

Amber Gramps

The second I upload the pictures I get the call to go pick up my boys from scouts.

Amber Gramps

The only bolts that concern me at all are bolts I didn't mess with. The four bolts circled in the first picture seem to be bare steel. I hit them with a brass brush to knock off the surface rust but will be leaving them alone unless someone has a suggestions as to what to do.

The second picture shows a gap in the tin where the A/C mount used to be. What do I do with this gaping hole? I'm thinking of just fabricating a plug for it out of similar tin. I had no idea this was going to be such a nightmare to put back in. There are actually slots in the tin that allow you to pre-insert the bolts in the chain covers and slide the tin in after the fact. The bolts that go into the motor mount are the only fully captive bolts. Why didn't someone point this out ahead of time?

Oh ya, most of the bolts I had were 10.9's not 8.8's.

rusnak

I think a higher grade bolt would be ok. Looks real purdy. A fkat tin plug would be fairly easy to make. I have to make a steel patch with two compound curves for the K5 Blazer.

whalebird

I'm glad it's coming together DB. If I may suggest, Ospho is REALLY good corrosion "jelly". Also, hit all that hardware with a little anti-seize upon reassembly.