theiceman

That makes a LOT of sense coz that is some SERIOUS corrosion. I have family in Ohio and the salt they put down there .. wow .. they must have their own salt mine or something ..

Looks like you are well on your way to recovery though .. Couple of points .. if you media blast the metal be carefull and go shallow angle or you may have nothing left . you may be better off just getting some used stuff and powdercoating that.
The Aluminum is the real issue .. Steel fastners into Aluminum faced with corrosion can be dicey ,, be very patient soaking and shocking each bolt.

500

That makes a lot of sense...

Like Iceman, I was wondering how the car's metal bits got so rusty. I just finished stripping all the engine tin off of my '85 and there was virtually no rust at all (just very slight surface corrosion in a few isolated spots) and all the bolts came out easily and are in great shape.

I am glass-bead blasting the tins and getting the powdercoated (you know... WYIT...)

rusnak

Hmm....I bet we have no frame of reference to understand Ohio rust issues. When we finished the beach house on the coast, it was very difficult to understand the type of corrosion that occurs there, compared to the Valley or to the mountains. I think the thickness of the metal that is left might be an issue.

Amber Gramps

The motor is down about 4 inches. Next is removing the muffler. Actually, next is Del Taco for my trusted mechanic. So far today I haven't turned a single wrench. He's totally eating it up.

whalebird

Good going Rus. It's rare in this world when you KNOW help will be offered by somebody...in renn-world, that somebody is you.
DB, you seem well on your way with this, but is it out of the question to just pull the motor out completely at this point? you're so close. I think any effort put into getting the motor on the ground would easily be absorbed by the ease of access. All the while you can eyeball the rest of it and feel good about it when it's all back together.
I do understand that such a project breeds WYIT items and resultant $$$$ in light of your opening statement.
That definitely looks like North East rust (Ohio is close enough).

Amber Gramps

whalebird, Russ hast truly gone the extra mile for me and I will forever be grateful.

About the motor drop....I've got the muffler and two of the tins off with one more almost off. I'm leaving now to get my brother's sand blasting equipment and will finish up the tins tonight. There are several things I want to do while I'm in there but I have no funds. Did I say ZERO money? At this point I'll continue with the work that doesn't cost anything and hope for better times in the months to come. I'm so tempted to fire it up with the open headers.

whalebird

fire it up...

Amber Gramps

Well, sandblasting is dirty work but boy do the tins look good. I took then down to bare metal and got a coat of primer on them right away. You'd never know how they looked just hours ago.

Rusnak, tonight's sushi awaits...

rusnak

I would SO fire it up too, haha!

Hey DB, get the kid a Renn membership, jk. I like the idea of doing the engine drop and sticking to the essentials That's very practical!!

Amber Gramps

Tin is all out. Half of it is blasted and primed, the other half ready for when I feel like getting dirty again.

I dropped the motor about 7 inches. The hardest part was figuring out the throttle linkage and removing the passenger side tin behind the oil cooler. The two tins on the passenger side were spotless and the bolts came right out. The driver's side tin with the throttle hole and sensor holes looks beyond repair. We'll see, but I'm thinking it's a goner.

Ed Hughes

Yikes. That is serious corrosion. GL.

I drove Ruby 12 miles to the muffler shop one early Saturday morning when I first put the headers on. Fun!

Amber Gramps

I knew there was bad corrosion, but I wasn't ready to admit it was this bad. It is primarily on the one part, but the other do have some surface rust. A couple of them you would never know had even been repainted they look so good.

Deep down inside the motor mount was a rats nest of twigs that included the little yellow plastic cap from the throttle body I thought I lost.

In the first picture there is what looks like a seal cover with two bolts on it. It looks like there is a lot of oil coming out there. Does it come off and can I replace the seal.

Go easy on my. I've got a fever and the codeine has me fealin' good.

Ed Hughes

Yes, the cover comes off, and there is an O ring under there. I'd go with the green (Viton) version. That is your IMS under there.

Funny, I came back on here to tell you to check that motor mount. That is what was cracked on my car when I took the engine down last year.

See post 4 for pics:

https://rennlist.com/forums/911-foru...ild-redux.html

whalebird

The mintage of wisdom is to know rest is rust. (E. Hubbard)

Great Free Will vid. Damn those guys can play.

Amber Gramps

I found this post and wanted to link to it before I forgot about it:

https://rennlist.com/forums/8636793-post5.html

What is interesting is that he says he removes the tin to adjust the valves. I was thinking that it looked doable the other day and wondered why I had never seen it done. Anyone here remove the tins to adjust the valves? Removing tires and tins would make the intake valves 10 times easier.