Lowering the rear...
Hi all,
Anyone have good, detailed instructions on how to lower the rear using the eccentric bolts on the adjustable torsion plate? The books I have just point to several bolts and say it can be done - but I don't have any specific direction...
thanks in advance!
JC
Anyone have good, detailed instructions on how to lower the rear using the eccentric bolts on the adjustable torsion plate? The books I have just point to several bolts and say it can be done - but I don't have any specific direction...
thanks in advance!
JC
I'm way swamped right now, but I'll come back with some general info, not too specific. I did a thread on my suspension rebuild a few years ago when my memory was fresh.
Basically, the torsion bars are good for 3 degrees of rotation per spline, or around 4" of travel. You counter rotate the opposite end, and that is 1.5 degrees, or maybe 2". The eccentric bolts offer overlap in either direction, so start in the middle. The clamp nut should be tightenend to spec. You'll need a thin adjustment wrench, and it's advisable to take the radius arm off the car, loosen the large nuts, and get the radius arm to move and break loose before trying to torque the hell out of the eccentric bolts, which won't work. The hex head will simply be damaged.
Scribe a line on the tub with the shock removed and the lower stop removed, with the torsion bar in full relax position with no torsion on it. This is your baseline. Make adjustments from the baseline. Support the bannana arm with a floorjack while disconnecting the shock.
The toe and camber eccentrics are tricky but the work very well. Tighten them and then loosen before making each adjustment to camber and toe. Set ride height prior to setting camber and toe.
Basically, the torsion bars are good for 3 degrees of rotation per spline, or around 4" of travel. You counter rotate the opposite end, and that is 1.5 degrees, or maybe 2". The eccentric bolts offer overlap in either direction, so start in the middle. The clamp nut should be tightenend to spec. You'll need a thin adjustment wrench, and it's advisable to take the radius arm off the car, loosen the large nuts, and get the radius arm to move and break loose before trying to torque the hell out of the eccentric bolts, which won't work. The hex head will simply be damaged.
Scribe a line on the tub with the shock removed and the lower stop removed, with the torsion bar in full relax position with no torsion on it. This is your baseline. Make adjustments from the baseline. Support the bannana arm with a floorjack while disconnecting the shock.
The toe and camber eccentrics are tricky but the work very well. Tighten them and then loosen before making each adjustment to camber and toe. Set ride height prior to setting camber and toe.
I thought 101 projects has it. I'm sure there is an article on PP. Note, this will be coupled with an alignment, as you toe and camber will change. I've got a manual on how to do a full alignment in your garage. I could email it to you, but not until next week probably. On the road for work two days, then headed to Monterey Car Week early Weds morning. I have the docs on my home computer.


