Ordered the WEVO kit today,..I'm gonna' tackle just this one side (sorry guys,..gotta' skimp on this one, for now,..flame away),...not bad at $118 plus shipping, on materials...labor's gonna' cost me $150.00 and will be done by someone who's done many of these, Porsche Wrench (I like that part)...

BEST!

Doyle

 

Wanted to query the gallery, as to welding.

As mentioned, I know NOTHING about this process (as of now, that is). Clearly, we're talking MIG here, for the WEVO mount....and she's at ground (alledgedly) potential.

Wouldn't one benefit from DISCONNECTING the DME connection (NOT JUST THE GROUND CONNECTION AT THE BATTERY POST)? What is created (signal/amplitude) on the ground while conducting the welding process? I've spoken to a few friends who say "disconnect that connector",..others say "it won't matter"...I'd like to quantify each of these contentions,..as only one is (truly) correct.

BEST!

Doyle

 

Doyle,

I rewelded my left rear sway bar mount last month with my Miller 230 Amp Mig welder and all i did was disconnect the Negative battery terminal for good measure and all was fine ... nothing fried !
I would really consider doing both sides at the same time

Just sayin ...
Cheers !

Phil

 

+1.... no guess work, no fuss.

 

If it concerns you, disconnect the DME too-it only takes a minute.

 

You can mig weld it, or arc or even flux core weld it. I don't think it's a big deal.

The 911 chips guy did his with a home made piece of floor joist strap, and it looked fine to me. Probably took him a few hours and less than $40 to do the job, including primer and paint.

 

We did many different versions of shop-made mounts pre-factory update (and long before Hayden came along), and nothing was long-term successful. All track cars. What actually was pretty effective was the seemingly crappy Automotion muffler hanger-around-the-torsion tube quickie solution for cars that didn't have a factory installed rear bar.

Oh, and I'd do both of them while you're bothering to do one.

 

C'mon man do both sides. I would think they won't be level on both sides if you don't. No regrets ......

 

Funny you mention that, 911 ROD. I was initially persistent in suggesting to my wrench that we go ahead and do both sides, yet he was conservative in suggesting he wouldn't if the other side was fine.....

geeze,..I'm trying to be "proactive" on this repair.......if one side can break, then (simply) so can the other, right? It's just a matter of "when" (which is maybe his point?)....I'm kinda' with you on this one.....I don't doubt for a moment that the installation results would provide parallelism, even with just a one-side only repair (I would imagine this to be a "must"?)

AGAIN: I'm with you and may reconsider, as I (too) know it to be the right thing to do...I do feel a bit short, sitting here waiting on a single (yes, one) WEVO mount, bracket and rubber....I guess I should just tuck my tail and hit the WEVO site (now) , doing the right thing....

BEST! (and thanks, ROD)

Doyle

 

what? your mechanic suggested this?.... thats like a tire shop suggesting to change only one worn tire instead of the pair...

 

I plan to get them BOTH addressed, period.

BEST!

Doyle

 

Rx'd the first shipment from "Windrush Evolutions", Inc. The RARB console, and Porsche parts: retaining bracket and sway bar bushing. Of course, I've had to place another order for the other side and am awaiting those parts. This WEVO piece is quite heavy and looks to last a LONG time.

I also took the liberty to get the drop links (both sides) ordered so that they may be installed, as well. One has to order an entire drop link to get fresh rubber in there.......seems to be the sensible thing to do,....new shocks on the rear, also...things should be quite nice back there.

For anyone who's done this (or watched this/know of this) WEVO install of the rear sway bar mounts...what does one need to be aware of, especially in terms of positioning? I won't be doing the welding (BTW) but would like to understand exactly what is entailed when properly welding these mounts. Are there measurements I can take, pre-work? How/what would one check for proper installation of this (these) mounts?

Thanks!

BEST!

Doyle

 

To add,..I would imagine that true parallel is important....I worry about something being a little off then snugged up on the mounting bracket......never to know about it...is this a relevant concern? Or, is there a bit of "slop" in there?

BEST!

Doyle

 

Wow,...down in the dumps,...the Wife had sparked an interest in "what's with the Carrera, AGAIN?" I just took her through the WEVO Kit, discussing the particulars (that is, the labor to get these installed, as well as the parts costs. Speaking of this being a "safety issue, at minimum" (my simplistic argument). Then comes the trials and tribulations of the (proposed) concept of "while you're in there" stuff,..like fresh drop links for both sides (~$110.00 total),..[[[[why not?]]]] I think the labor for this will run in the ~$250-$300 range, for both sides,..drop link install (by wrench) for free (duh?) Yes, Dear, I should go ahead and change the +22 year old shocks in the rear while I'm there on her ****-end.

When all said and done,...(after the inclusion of the necc'y valve adjust)...SHE's totalling the $$$$. (my wrench charges ~$300 for the valve adjustment,..and I'm completely COOL with his seasoned "feel" for that proper gap,..I've no time to do it, myself......I trust his "wrist".....As always, I provide the Brad Penn 20W50 oil, Mahl oil filter, gasket set, to include fresh crush washers and new nylocks ( we've agreed to this "protocol", and I'm gracious for James' offer.....as always). We've had discussions regarding this and clearly his preference is to go with Porsche Parts,..or (most) bets are "off".....I have to agree, as I could care less in some of the price differences...I tend to go with the Wrench (at least, most of the time). I will certainly defer to this gracious NG and its' participants......

In the end (one of my favorite RUSH tunes), she's looking at ~$300, worst case, for BOTH sides...may be a bit less, "in the end") for the labor on the rear sway bar mounts....with those parts clocking in at ~$250.........),..so: we're at ~$550, totalled labor and parts, for this piece of repair,...As noted, I've new drop links (both sides) at ~$110,..(installed at No charge),..so now we're at $660. As mentioned, I'll allow for a valve adjustment at $300....this gets us to ~$960 (not to mention my needed purchase of a cse of BP 20W50 (~70'sh, to my door),..plus the oil filter, VC "kit" costs.......I'm sure this takes us to a grand ($1K)....I've also ordered fresh Boges for the rear (stock),...that will add ~$250,..mmm'...let's see that puts us at ~$1250 (and the shocks still need to be installed). quote on the shock changeouts was a range of $90-$130 for both sides...I'm considering doing the rear shocks myself.....

So,..to point,....the Wife "correlates" this to the need to replace an 18 year AC house HVAC unit......(much more $$$$$$$$$, of course).........

Yeap,..she is (now) referred to as the "money pit" (by the Wife)......my plan is to get her to drive it more often......apparently there are some P-car enthusiasts at her bank gig....she's just not had enough drive time over the past year........

ANYWAZE: just venting, people.

Best!

Doyle

 

Hmm....time to see about servicing the house AC unit. I don't know about replacing it unless the compressor is bad.