Squeaky front suspension
#17
Rennlist Member
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
It's about time for me to address my bushings, as you. I'll have to research each of the pieces needed for the redo and I plan to stay with rubber.
Sub'd.
BEST!
Doyle
Sub'd.
BEST!
Doyle
#18
Rennlist Member
#21
I haddah Google dat
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
There are a LOT of threads on Pelican about PB. The rubber kit is newer, but I did a thread about it here. I think any decent DIYer with tools can tackle it. Perhaps bleeding the brakes might be the biggest challenge.
#22
RL Technical Advisor
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Both ER's rubber and Poly-Bronze are excellent bushing solutions and the choice really depends on how the car is used.
We've done lots of both,.....
We've done lots of both,.....
![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
#23
I haddah Google dat
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I couldn't find the thread where I posted these pics, so here they are, as requested.
Whether you go PB or Rubber, it's alwayse wise to do research. Toward that end, I offer some thoughts on the rubber ER kit:
- ER's instructions are very good, but take your time when installing the bushings onto the a-arms. It's a little bit niggly. You might chamfer the rubber a bit to get it started.
- a hydraulic press is much faster than the clamp method
- I'd go ahead and bolt up the a-arms while the soap is still wet, then let it dry overnight on the car with the car still on jackstands.
- if you ever need to separate the tie rods from the struts and want to re-use the tie rods, then you should use the last tool pictured. It separates the tie rod perfectly every time without tearing the boot or bending the steering arm.
Whether you go PB or Rubber, it's alwayse wise to do research. Toward that end, I offer some thoughts on the rubber ER kit:
- ER's instructions are very good, but take your time when installing the bushings onto the a-arms. It's a little bit niggly. You might chamfer the rubber a bit to get it started.
- a hydraulic press is much faster than the clamp method
- I'd go ahead and bolt up the a-arms while the soap is still wet, then let it dry overnight on the car with the car still on jackstands.
- if you ever need to separate the tie rods from the struts and want to re-use the tie rods, then you should use the last tool pictured. It separates the tie rod perfectly every time without tearing the boot or bending the steering arm.
#24
Rennlist Member
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I replaced the front and rear suspension componets and it was very simple (never did it before) ... Call Chuck Moreland at Elephant and he will help you out, he is a great guy.
Regards, Dave
Regards, Dave
#28
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
So should I replace my front shocks also with Bilsten Sports at the time I'm doing the bushings? And camber plate bushings as well? The more I read the more expensive this project seems to get...
#29
I haddah Google dat
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
It's not an expensive project unless you make it so. If you already have Bilstein struts, then you can buy new cartridges (see the pic), or you can have your old ones custom valved.