Is this a good idea?
06-09-2011, 05:31 PM
#1
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Is this a good idea?
Thank you for all the information I have been lurking up..It been of great help. The plan is to buy a 911 in the near future.
I would like it to be a project where me and my son can work on this winter. I am Pretty familiar with German cars and have restored several VW and BMW. However, never worked on a Porsche.
During my search I came across this 911 that's near (5 hours) our place. It's a 1978 911 SC. It's in a decent condition. Body work is rust free, and no signs of accidents or other major occurrences. It needs some work on the interior, and the A/C pump has been removed. With 200k Millage is a bit on the high side.
Owner is asking 10.500 for this unit. I don't mind spending a lot of time and some money to get this car in good shape, but the stories here on the forum and prices of parts make me think otherwise.
So the big question is are we going to buy an older project car for 9-10K or are we going to spend 15-20K on a really nice one. At the end that's the amount what the project is probably going to be anyways. But without the fun of working on this project with my son.
What are your thoughts? The good, bad and ugly.
PS This car is located near Seattle. If somebody is familiar with the car, all information is appreciated!
Erik
I would like it to be a project where me and my son can work on this winter. I am Pretty familiar with German cars and have restored several VW and BMW. However, never worked on a Porsche.
During my search I came across this 911 that's near (5 hours) our place. It's a 1978 911 SC. It's in a decent condition. Body work is rust free, and no signs of accidents or other major occurrences. It needs some work on the interior, and the A/C pump has been removed. With 200k Millage is a bit on the high side.
Owner is asking 10.500 for this unit. I don't mind spending a lot of time and some money to get this car in good shape, but the stories here on the forum and prices of parts make me think otherwise.
So the big question is are we going to buy an older project car for 9-10K or are we going to spend 15-20K on a really nice one. At the end that's the amount what the project is probably going to be anyways. But without the fun of working on this project with my son.
What are your thoughts? The good, bad and ugly.
PS This car is located near Seattle. If somebody is familiar with the car, all information is appreciated!
Erik
06-09-2011, 07:26 PM
#2
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Potentially a great idea... I am in the midst of comprehensive refreshing an '85 (that began as suspension bushings, then a suspension pan and...). And I have a great time with my little guy sharing the experience. There are some pitfalls to watch out for:
1) Check the battery area/front suspension pan. An otherwise rust free car can be problematic here due to a past battery acid leak. It is repairable, but it may be a bigger job than you want right away.
2) Try to avoid a motor that needs rebuilt right away. ~$10K is considered pretty basic for re-doing the motors on these cars ~$15K may be more typical. Parts cost alone will make up a big part of that.
3) Ask yourself if you are the type who can keep the scope from creeping (I am really crappy at that). If you are like me, your project will morph into something huge and it may be a long time before you are back driving the car!!
4) Even though you are looking at it as a project, I would recommend getting a full PPI as if you were buying a car to just drive. $10.5K can get a reasonably good-to-go 911.
1) Check the battery area/front suspension pan. An otherwise rust free car can be problematic here due to a past battery acid leak. It is repairable, but it may be a bigger job than you want right away.
2) Try to avoid a motor that needs rebuilt right away. ~$10K is considered pretty basic for re-doing the motors on these cars ~$15K may be more typical. Parts cost alone will make up a big part of that.
3) Ask yourself if you are the type who can keep the scope from creeping (I am really crappy at that). If you are like me, your project will morph into something huge and it may be a long time before you are back driving the car!!
4) Even though you are looking at it as a project, I would recommend getting a full PPI as if you were buying a car to just drive. $10.5K can get a reasonably good-to-go 911.
06-09-2011, 09:14 PM
#3
Price seems high. For $10.5k, it needs to have a lot of fresh parts, or be cosmetically very, very good. I think the project is a great idea. Sounds like you have the skills and experience. Just need the right car to get started.
Uh oh, alarm spotted, as I look back at the pics.
Brett
Uh oh, alarm spotted, as I look back at the pics.
Brett
06-09-2011, 11:43 PM
#4
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Potentially a great idea... I am in the midst of comprehensive refreshing an '85 (that began as suspension bushings, then a suspension pan and...). And I have a great time with my little guy sharing the experience. There are some pitfalls to watch out for:
1) Check the battery area/front suspension pan. An otherwise rust free car can be problematic here due to a past battery acid leak. It is repairable, but it may be a bigger job than you want right away.
2) Try to avoid a motor that needs rebuilt right away. ~$10K is considered pretty basic for re-doing the motors on these cars ~$15K may be more typical. Parts cost alone will make up a big part of that.
3) Ask yourself if you are the type who can keep the scope from creeping (I am really crappy at that). If you are like me, your project will morph into something huge and it may be a long time before you are back driving the car!!
4) Even though you are looking at it as a project, I would recommend getting a full PPI as if you were buying . And yeas, you are absolua car to just drive. $10.5K can get a reasonably good-to-go 911.
1) Check the battery area/front suspension pan. An otherwise rust free car can be problematic here due to a past battery acid leak. It is repairable, but it may be a bigger job than you want right away.
2) Try to avoid a motor that needs rebuilt right away. ~$10K is considered pretty basic for re-doing the motors on these cars ~$15K may be more typical. Parts cost alone will make up a big part of that.
3) Ask yourself if you are the type who can keep the scope from creeping (I am really crappy at that). If you are like me, your project will morph into something huge and it may be a long time before you are back driving the car!!
4) Even though you are looking at it as a project, I would recommend getting a full PPI as if you were buying . And yeas, you are absolua car to just drive. $10.5K can get a reasonably good-to-go 911.
and I don't mind that, but a total rebuild of the engine is not planned. But honestly, there is no other vehicle I would like to start a project on. I am European and the American muscle cars just don't appeal to me.
06-12-2011, 06:58 PM
#6
You can get an excellent, well maintained and documented SC for $16K or so.
At $10K on an SC with any issues, you'll be upside down before you do the title work. Be afraid... be very, very afraid.
Even if you do all the work yourself, a total engine rebuild on an SC will cost $8-10K. Restoring the interior to factory specs will cost $5K or more.... and more, and more...
If you want a project, either find a really, really ratty SC for about $2-3K and make a mod-rod, or get a small-bumper (e.g. '73 or earlier). The cost is the same, but the upside on a small-bumper is 2-3 times what an SC will ever bring.
Now, not to discourage you... these are great cars, and very easy to work on, but parts are expen$$$$ive, and the resale values very tight.
Have fun
JCP
At $10K on an SC with any issues, you'll be upside down before you do the title work. Be afraid... be very, very afraid.
Even if you do all the work yourself, a total engine rebuild on an SC will cost $8-10K. Restoring the interior to factory specs will cost $5K or more.... and more, and more...
If you want a project, either find a really, really ratty SC for about $2-3K and make a mod-rod, or get a small-bumper (e.g. '73 or earlier). The cost is the same, but the upside on a small-bumper is 2-3 times what an SC will ever bring.
Now, not to discourage you... these are great cars, and very easy to work on, but parts are expen$$$$ive, and the resale values very tight.
Have fun
JCP
06-12-2011, 08:23 PM
#7
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Yep
You can get an excellent, well maintained and documented SC for $16K or so.
At $10K on an SC with any issues, you'll be upside down before you do the title work. Be afraid... be very, very afraid.
Even if you do all the work yourself, a total engine rebuild on an SC will cost $8-10K. Restoring the interior to factory specs will cost $5K or more.... and more, and more...
If you want a project, either find a really, really ratty SC for about $2-3K and make a mod-rod, or get a small-bumper (e.g. '73 or earlier). The cost is the same, but the upside on a small-bumper is 2-3 times what an SC will ever bring.
Now, not to discourage you... these are great cars, and very easy to work on, but parts are expen$$$$ive, and the resale values very tight.
Have fun
JCP
At $10K on an SC with any issues, you'll be upside down before you do the title work. Be afraid... be very, very afraid.
Even if you do all the work yourself, a total engine rebuild on an SC will cost $8-10K. Restoring the interior to factory specs will cost $5K or more.... and more, and more...
If you want a project, either find a really, really ratty SC for about $2-3K and make a mod-rod, or get a small-bumper (e.g. '73 or earlier). The cost is the same, but the upside on a small-bumper is 2-3 times what an SC will ever bring.
Now, not to discourage you... these are great cars, and very easy to work on, but parts are expen$$$$ive, and the resale values very tight.
Have fun
JCP
On another note, this is not a bad car at all, but 210K miles without any professional rebuild........
I would like to thank you all here on the forum for your advise. Will get back to you very shortly asking your opinion on some other 911's.
Trending Topics
06-13-2011, 05:01 PM
#8
If you like these cars, I'd highly encourage you to pursue it. THe SC/3.2 Carrara is one of the best Porsches ever built.
Galvanized bodies don't rust, the mechanicals are strong as an anvil, and the maintenance parts (Brakes, Shocks, etc) are relatively cheap. Plus, you will not take much depreciation, and may even make a few $$$.
They are also eligible for collector car insurance. I pay about $250/year for declared-value insurance with a 3,000 mile annual limit.
Just find a really clean, no accident, fully documented example... they are out there for under $20K.
if you buy thew right car, you can't get hurt
Galvanized bodies don't rust, the mechanicals are strong as an anvil, and the maintenance parts (Brakes, Shocks, etc) are relatively cheap. Plus, you will not take much depreciation, and may even make a few $$$.
They are also eligible for collector car insurance. I pay about $250/year for declared-value insurance with a 3,000 mile annual limit.
Just find a really clean, no accident, fully documented example... they are out there for under $20K.
if you buy thew right car, you can't get hurt
06-13-2011, 11:50 PM
#9
Intermediate
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Littleton, CO
Posts: 39
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
this is not exactly true. galvanizing is a rust inhibitor, not an absolutely perfect rust preventer. a galvanized body panel will rust far less than a non-treated panel in the same environment, but it is most definitely is possible for post 75 cars to rust.
always check a 20 plus year car for rust, galvanized or not.
always check a 20 plus year car for rust, galvanized or not.
06-14-2011, 10:06 AM
#10
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist
Site Sponsor
Rennlist Member
Rennlist
Site Sponsor
First welcome to Rennlist! That car will quickly be a $15K car, so you should just spend the $15K and have an SC ready to go. I on the other hand don't worry about miles if the PPI and compression checks out.
06-20-2011, 12:19 AM
#11
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Thank you all for your good advise and comments! 
I did some more research and the car has a solid history. (go back about 15 years, owned by a PCA board member). So... I went back last week and took it out for a little ride.
Will be picking it up somewhere around June 28-29! Flying out to the guys place and drive it back for a 6 hour road trip!
If we make it it will be a good car I guess...
Will keep you all posted!
I did some more research and the car has a solid history. (go back about 15 years, owned by a PCA board member). So... I went back last week and took it out for a little ride. Will be picking it up somewhere around June 28-29! Flying out to the guys place and drive it back for a 6 hour road trip!
If we make it it will be a good car I guess...
Will keep you all posted!
06-20-2011, 12:45 AM
#12
I wouldn't worry too much about the internals of a well-maintained 3.0 L. At just 210,000 miles, it may still be 100,000 or 200,000 miles from a rebuild. Worry about the head studs perhaps, but it's pretty much believed that cars that get driven have fewer problems with head studs breaking. I would worry more about suspension/steering parts and bushings, wheel bearings, fuel pump, CIS system, brake system, interior. I would expect some refresh work to have been done in some of these areas.
Good luck,
Brett
Good luck,
Brett
