Downfalls of '74-76 911
#1
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I'm a newbie still trying to figure out what year 911 to purchase. I know conventional wisdom says to buy the newest 911 you can afford, but that would place me in the 2.7l '74-76 years which seem to be black sheep. I live in CA where '74 is the first year they start smog requirements. What are the downfalls of these years as compared with the '73 and younger?
Thanks =) I love these forums...they are a great resource!
Thanks =) I love these forums...they are a great resource!
#2
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The biggest problem with the 1974-1977 cars is the 2.7L engine,specifically the magnesium cases,Porsche struggled with getting all the hardware to expand and contract at the same rate,you had mag engine cases,steel headbolts,aluminum heads and they just don't play together nicely.This is a expensive repair,the motor has to be removed,generally timecerts have to be installed in the case,sometimes other machining has to be performed,new bolts like Raceware brand installed,well you get the picture.If I were you I would look for a clean 1970-1973 or possibly a 1978+ SC if you can afford it.What ever model you choose,take your time,do research and when you have it narrowed down to the car you think you want,pay a professional Porsche mechanic to do a pre-purchase inspection including a compression test,its the best way to be a informed buyer.Good luck. <img src="graemlins/beerchug.gif" border="0" alt="[cheers]" />
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rf is correct on an un-rebuilt 2.7..don't think there are many around..but rf does trigger a reply for not properly re-built 2.7 ..if a 2.7 is properly re-built, which costs big bucks, the '74-'77 is probably the best bang for the buck in a 911.. because of the bad press of a 2.7 I could never recoup anywhere close to the bucks I have invested/don't care/not for sale...anyway, IMO, the 911 to buy is the '87-'89 Carrera......Ron
#4
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The 2.7 really are the bargain due to the reputation.
All cars through 2.7 had mag cases. The problems began with the emission crap that went on these engines. It caused them to run too hot resulting in pulled head studs.
By now, they've all been rebuilt. Rebuilt properly, they are very reliable.
They need timecerts or case savers, eliminate the thermal reactors, air pump, and add a proper external oil cooler. With that, life is good.
I've got a 242k on my '77 2.7. 182k on the rebuild.
All cars through 2.7 had mag cases. The problems began with the emission crap that went on these engines. It caused them to run too hot resulting in pulled head studs.
By now, they've all been rebuilt. Rebuilt properly, they are very reliable.
They need timecerts or case savers, eliminate the thermal reactors, air pump, and add a proper external oil cooler. With that, life is good.
I've got a 242k on my '77 2.7. 182k on the rebuild.
#5
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You could always look for a 74-83 with an upgraded engine, 3.0 78-83/ 3.2 84 on. I was in the same situation, trying to find a solid car for 10,000. Read alot about the 2.7 problems and even the 3.0 upgrades that need to be done (pop-off, oiled tensioners) and found a 77 with a 3.2 in it with 100,000 on the engine. Very strong, no leaks, computerized tuning and no oil consumption or blue smoke. That's another option for you, just takes time searching for the right car and the right amout of money.
Good Luck, Rick
Good Luck, Rick
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if anyone is interested in what a properly rebuilt 2.7 is capable of eyeball this
<a href="http://forums.pelicanparts.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=74871" target="_blank">http://forums.pelicanparts.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=74871</a>
<a href="http://forums.pelicanparts.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=74871" target="_blank">http://forums.pelicanparts.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=74871</a>