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What motor would you recommend for a long nose?

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Old 03-09-2011, 09:27 AM
  #76  
Eharrison
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Talk amongst yourselves. The build thread will start once it's in my hands.
Old 03-09-2011, 11:47 AM
  #77  
Ed Hughes
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Originally Posted by RollingArt
Ed, you should ALWAYS get the PPI.

I think you should also talk to a PHD !!





Phil
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Old 03-09-2011, 12:09 PM
  #78  
whalebird
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Ken, don't tell PCA about the 911t. They'll never raffle that slug.
Old 03-09-2011, 04:57 PM
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RollingArt
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Ed, how about something like this. Needs some or all of it's floors replaced, so you'd get to do some metal work with your son. Whole car needs a thorough going over but is fairly complete. Seller is asking $10,950. Could probably be had for $9-10k.

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifie....php?id=991797

How much are you spending on the car you're considering?

Just tossing options out there.




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Old 03-09-2011, 05:00 PM
  #80  
Ed Hughes
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WTF, how do "solid car" and needing pan work coincide in the same ad?
Old 03-09-2011, 05:05 PM
  #81  
RollingArt
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Originally Posted by Ed Hughes
WTF, how do "solid car" and needing pan work coincide in the same ad?
Small technicality.

It's perfect for Ed though, he doesn't even want a "solid car".





Phil
Old 03-09-2011, 05:23 PM
  #82  
Eharrison
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It's ok but it does have something the other does, and that's rust in an area I just don't like, near the windows (See photo).

I'm not paying anywhere near that, not even a third of that (close). It would be nice to have all those parts and sell what I don't want to offset the cost of the rebuild. But I really hate selling stuff since it's a PITA and I don't like people I don't know coming to my house. Shipping crap is higher on my don't like list.

I've got some body work to do and I think I got what I was looking for. The parts I want are on it and off the top of my head (not complete excluding bearings etc...) I need wheels, engine and gear box, seats, top, lights, mirrors, door handles, windshield, dash, gear shift, carpet, fenders, trim bits here and there and flares. Of that the only parts that are going to be original are door handles, windshield, lights (H4), some trim and top. Everything else is going to be upgrades. Honestly I don't have the room to store parts I'm going to take off a whole car.

I'm picking it up tomorrow, around noon between traffic jams. Temecula to LA with a trailer is going to BLOW.
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Old 03-09-2011, 05:53 PM
  #83  
Makmov
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that is the problem with metal termites, where there is one there are more, probably hundres more.

Maybe he meant it was solid plastic filler?

Oh and 3.6 btw.
Old 03-09-2011, 09:01 PM
  #84  
race911
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Originally Posted by RollingArt
Is the MFI the main reason for hatin' on the 2.4?

The car is a mostly original '73 T, and yes I'd like to keep the MFI for originality. Haven't opened the motor yet but expect to find things in pretty good order. Main reason for the tear down is smoking. If all the basics are still in good shape I'll probably put it back together stock spec. The motor actually runs and drives quite nice.

I'd love to here input from Pete on tuning MFI and the 2.4 in general. But only if Ed would like to here it also. This is his thread after all!




Phil
Originally Posted by whalebird
Ken, don't tell PCA about the 911t. They'll never raffle that slug.
I'll keep it short; if we want to get into an involved discussion go ahead and make up another thread.

Simply put, refer back to my earlier comment--it was all about how the cars aged, the lack of maintenance given to them, and the necessity of passing annual (Arizona) and every-other-year/change of ownership (California) smog tests. Ugh.

Both Phil's, and the PCA raffle car will be "as new." So there you'll have them as perfect as can be. Which is why I'd love to hear Pete (or anyone else who had a shop and worked on them when they were new) comment. I got the POS cars, the ones that are the "before" edition of the raffle car. And a bitchy owner who was underfunded. Sure, you'd love to chase the bad customers away, but get real when you're trying to make a living. So you do what you can.

Bottom line in MY experience was that the 2.2. E/S cars (remember no high compression T's from the factory--though I've built more than one high compression 2.4T to, ahem, skirt the rules) tuned out and ran pretty well. Even on aged pumps. So-so with the low-ish compression 2.4 E/S. No such luck with the sub-7.5:1 compression 2.4 Ts. Isn't that kinda why PMO came to be in existence? And that he found it necessary to get a CARB E.O. number so the kits were smog legal? Saved a lot of MFI T's over the years.
Old 03-11-2011, 10:40 AM
  #85  
whalebird
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Ken, I can somewhat relate. I had a customer with a 2.4T that was pretty shabby. It had made the circuit around town, and the owner had been told that his exhaust was shot, so he bought SSI, Then the injection was crap, so he blew his entire wad and had the pump/throttles restored. All this and the core motor was shot. He couldn't understand why the car wasn't running like new. All this came to me while I was a Tech at the DEALER. I had tuned a number of MFI at that stage and was able to get it tolerable. What it boiled down to, is he bought a sorry car (before early cars shot thru the roof) for a bargain and was expecting Daytona winning performance. Carbs may have mitigated the the problems a bit and for only a little while. Bad/uneducated customer with a poor car was the reality of it and it cost me some $$$ screwing with it as a production/line tech working flat rate.
I refered him to a small indie shop in the area for a more involved repair(the "circuit"), but the dealer had no business taking such a car in.
This is where the option of dropping a good 3.0 in a 2.4 car is very attractive. I would love to have a 2.2/2.4T, but that motor would be on the shelf first thing.



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