Newbie here...looking at a 1981 911SC
01-29-2011, 01:53 PM
#17
Track Day
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Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: NYC
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Ok...so here are a few pictures. The car is gross. I drove it to my mechanics today to have the oil changed, etc. He is also going to fully detail it.
As you can see, there are a few rust spots that need attention. I am going to have them addressed in a few weeks...All input is welcome! Thanks
As you can see, there are a few rust spots that need attention. I am going to have them addressed in a few weeks...All input is welcome! Thanks
01-29-2011, 08:41 PM
#20
Rennlist Member
I'm afraid your rust repairs are not going to be insignificant or inexpensive. At least front fenders can be replaced. Sorry to be negative, but once we got to the '76 improvements in rust protection, if you have spots showing like that, there will be much more hidden. Good luck.
01-31-2011, 01:48 PM
#23
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Nice looking car overall.
Take Ed's advice a a good starting point. That amount of rust usually means there will be some other issues. The key is to really find them all.
I'm not sure how far you want to go at this stage, but if you really want to get at all the problem areas, I would suggest:
1) Disassemble all the bolt-on bodywork, which means side sill covers, valences (front and rear), bumpers, taillights, headlights and remove front fenders. Outside of the front fenders, which can take a little extra effort, all of this is easy.
2) Remove components under the body that may impede good inspection/repair (e.g. washer tank in front, driver's side wheel well, carbon cannister in P.S. rear wheel well etc.
3) remove windshield and rear quarter windows (often there is hidden corrosion in the body portion of the frames).
These are the areas I would be most concerned about checking:
1) Area where the front fenders were bolted to the body.
2) Kidney bowls (the area at the forward-most part of the rear inner fenders where the sills, jack point, door lock post etc. all comes together. REALLY check this area thouroughly.
3) Top area of bumper shock mounts.
4) Window frames (as previously mentioned)
5) Battery area/suspension pan
6) Under the rubber door sill protectors
7) Seam at top of rear inner fenders
8) Above rear tail-lights
There are other spots that can be a concern, but you will get a feel for how much you have to deal with. If many of the above areas show some damage, then you till have to take a very close look at other areas.
Hopefully it will prove to be not too much work.
Take Ed's advice a a good starting point. That amount of rust usually means there will be some other issues. The key is to really find them all.
I'm not sure how far you want to go at this stage, but if you really want to get at all the problem areas, I would suggest:
1) Disassemble all the bolt-on bodywork, which means side sill covers, valences (front and rear), bumpers, taillights, headlights and remove front fenders. Outside of the front fenders, which can take a little extra effort, all of this is easy.
2) Remove components under the body that may impede good inspection/repair (e.g. washer tank in front, driver's side wheel well, carbon cannister in P.S. rear wheel well etc.
3) remove windshield and rear quarter windows (often there is hidden corrosion in the body portion of the frames).
These are the areas I would be most concerned about checking:
1) Area where the front fenders were bolted to the body.
2) Kidney bowls (the area at the forward-most part of the rear inner fenders where the sills, jack point, door lock post etc. all comes together. REALLY check this area thouroughly.
3) Top area of bumper shock mounts.
4) Window frames (as previously mentioned)
5) Battery area/suspension pan
6) Under the rubber door sill protectors
7) Seam at top of rear inner fenders
8) Above rear tail-lights
There are other spots that can be a concern, but you will get a feel for how much you have to deal with. If many of the above areas show some damage, then you till have to take a very close look at other areas.
Hopefully it will prove to be not too much work.
04-15-2011, 02:16 AM
#29
Rennlist Member
Beautiful, beautiful car. Miss my SC Targa even more now! Enjoy it!
And from memory, I wanted my SC to have a pop-off valve on the air box, the carrera tensioners, and the upgrade from the rubber clutch. Other than that, my 3.0 was a tank. Great car.
-Blake
And from memory, I wanted my SC to have a pop-off valve on the air box, the carrera tensioners, and the upgrade from the rubber clutch. Other than that, my 3.0 was a tank. Great car.
-Blake