Caliper Restoration
12-14-2010, 08:51 PM
#16
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
I use PMB. Here's what they look like when they come back to you:
Eric does excellent work, turns them around quickly and you're supporting/doing business with a one man show. As a small business in the industry, that last part matters to me. I'd rather send my work to a Porsche enthusiast who takes pride in his work than some brake specialist that may charge a little less but is pretty much a factory just churning out rebuilt parts. Eric does concours quality work.
Eric does excellent work, turns them around quickly and you're supporting/doing business with a one man show. As a small business in the industry, that last part matters to me. I'd rather send my work to a Porsche enthusiast who takes pride in his work than some brake specialist that may charge a little less but is pretty much a factory just churning out rebuilt parts. Eric does concours quality work.
I ended up powder-coating mine when I rebuilt them. I have a smaller powder kit and an old toaster oven that is large enough for the calipers. I used a silver-grey powder, mainly because I had some lying around, but also partly because it is not TOO far from a stock look.
My powder kit was ~$150 and I use it all the time. That, plus the cost of the new OE seal kit as well as bleed screws has enabled me to get results that are pretty good at a fraction of the cost.
My powder kit was ~$150 and I use it all the time. That, plus the cost of the new OE seal kit as well as bleed screws has enabled me to get results that are pretty good at a fraction of the cost.
12-14-2010, 09:50 PM
#17
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
I got mine from Columbia coatings. Eastwood also sells a similar kit. I found a slightly larger than average toaster oven for next to nothing on fleabay.
Powder coating is a very easy process actually, but, like any kind of coating, prep is paramount. If you have equipment to bead blast stuff, you are good to go.
Powder coating is a very easy process actually, but, like any kind of coating, prep is paramount. If you have equipment to bead blast stuff, you are good to go.
12-15-2010, 09:38 AM
#18
I had mine rebuilt by Goldline http://www.goldlinebrakes.com/. They have an optional proprietary polymer coating that is extremely durable. Not sure if they offer cad plating or not. They did a great job and after 5 years the finish on my calipers (black polymer) still looks like new. I added the Porsche lettering myself. I don't remember the exact cost but I thought it was reasonable.
12-17-2010, 12:03 AM
#19
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Dave, thanks for posting the picture. I contacted Goldline today and their price for their restoration with the polymer is about the same as PMB for the plated ones. Seems like the polymer finish will last longer than the plating. Just another option...thanks again.
12-24-2010, 08:53 PM
#21
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Well, my daughter's car stole my extra cash to spend on cars this month, so I'm taking a crack at the calipers. I'm going to bead blast them and paint them black with VHT paint. I'm also rebuilding them.
What's the best way to protect the pistons while blasting?
Hey Ed, do you have any pics of yours on the car? Would like to see how they're holding up.
What's the best way to protect the pistons while blasting?
Hey Ed, do you have any pics of yours on the car? Would like to see how they're holding up.
12-24-2010, 09:14 PM
#22
Pmb and goldline seem to really do excellent work. If it was my car and I wanted it factory looking I'd go the pmb route. Goldline is a nice way to go for a daily driver, might be a bit more durable over the long haul. God I wish I knew about pmb before I rebuilt mine this past summer. I just cleaned them up and rebuilt them. Cosmetically they look fine. But if it was a show car that gold anodized look looks great poking through my fresh and crispy looking fuch wheels.
01-15-2011, 06:24 PM
#24
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Question for the experienced folks. I'm having a hell of a time getting the hard brake line off the front caliper. As a matter of fact it wont come off the caliper and wont come off where it attaches to the other brake line. Any tricks. I used the usual 11mm flare nut wrench and PB blaster to no avail.
I may have to ruin the line and get two new ones anyway so if I have to destroy so be it. I still have to take them off though.
Any ideas...tricks of the trade?
I may have to ruin the line and get two new ones anyway so if I have to destroy so be it. I still have to take them off though.
Any ideas...tricks of the trade?
01-15-2011, 07:25 PM
#26
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Mine came off no problem, so it sounds like your might just be rusted in. The calipers can take a lot of heat, so pour it on into the caliper body around the fitting, but not on the fitting. "Quench" the area with parraffin wax (wicks into the threads), heat up again, and try with the wrench. Sharp movements, as ivangene suggested, will help too.
01-16-2011, 01:01 AM
#27
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
No joy with the heat on the driver side one. The nut stripped even with the flare nut wrench. I think I may end up cutting that one off and put in it on the bench to get thet nut off the caliper. Hopefully the passenger side will not be as stuborn.
01-16-2011, 03:11 AM
#28
I haddah Google dat
Rennlist Member
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Your flare wrench wouldn't happen to be a Craftsman, would it? I ran into this in the "dang clutch" thread. I found that my huge crescent wrench, tightened as tight as it will go, along with some PB Blaster gets those hard lines out best. A flare wrench should not strip out the fitting, and if it does, chances are it's not sized right. The best alternative is to get a wrench that fits damn snug against the fitting, and won't flex.
At this point you might need to try alternative methods, such as a nipple extractor, or one of those spiral cutting pipe extractors.
At this point you might need to try alternative methods, such as a nipple extractor, or one of those spiral cutting pipe extractors.
01-16-2011, 03:22 AM
#29
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Craftsman indeed...just bought it today as my set (standard + Metric) from Harbour Freight came without a 11mm and the standard had the 7/16. I could tell the 7/16 was not tight enough so off to Sears I went...it didn't help.
01-16-2011, 03:52 AM
#30
I haddah Google dat
Rennlist Member
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OIY!!!
And another victim of the Craftsman flare wrench. We need to have a sticky thread warning people not to use that wrench. It ruins brake fittings!!! Try another brand. Until then, I got the rest of mine off with a foot and a half long adjustable wrench, PB Blaster, and a sharp but gentle twising motion.
You might have to cut the hard pipe free if it totally rounds out, then maybe cut a slot in the fitting and get it out with a screwdriver, I dunno. You should plug the brake inlet from inside the caliper before all that cutting though.
And another victim of the Craftsman flare wrench. We need to have a sticky thread warning people not to use that wrench. It ruins brake fittings!!! Try another brand. Until then, I got the rest of mine off with a foot and a half long adjustable wrench, PB Blaster, and a sharp but gentle twising motion.
You might have to cut the hard pipe free if it totally rounds out, then maybe cut a slot in the fitting and get it out with a screwdriver, I dunno. You should plug the brake inlet from inside the caliper before all that cutting though.