Bob's flat-six

Anybody know of a good price for a new blower motor for an 80SC, mines shot and thought I'd just go with a new one, unless I could find a GOOD used at a fair price. This is the only thing that dosn't work on the car and it's buggin me. Other than that she's been well fed and runs GREAT
Thanks and Merry Xmas <img src="graemlins/xyxwave.gif" border="0" alt="[bigbye]" />

MM83targa

Bob,
Take a look at the Pelican Parts site- used parts forum. Someone posted a blower motor just yesterday. Look for the title "heatexchangers,exhaust ,cis and other 82 parts forsale" No affiliation whatsoever.

slammed1000

thet someone is me.....i sent you a e-mail on it bob...thanks, brent

quicksilver

I choked on the idea that a DC motor with no bearings could be worth over $200. If you have some fabricating skills you can replace the motor with an inexpensive DC motor. Grainger has a good selection of small DC motors. I found a unit for $24 that worked out.


This is slightly different, as I have an 87 but the same needs apply. The pieces to fabricate are...

1. A plate to attach between the fan shroud and the new motor's endplate mount. This is where the artistic expression comes in.

2. Modify the squirrel cage to take a set screw. I simply took a long drill bit, sized correctly for a an allen set screw and drilled into the hub. I snipped a tiny bit of one of the fan blades away for access. I removed a similar amount on the otherside so it would remain in balance.

3. Because of the difference in shaft size I made a bushing out of a piece of 5/16 dia, .028" walled stainless tubing. I found it in the K&S metals rack at the local hobby shop. It fit perfectly. I drilled a hole for the set screw to go through it and put it on.

4. Used a male bullet type electrical connector on the wires from the motor. They were a touch looser than I would like so I pushed a small nail up the middle to expand it so it fit snugly.

All of this went in without modifying anything so it wouldn't go back to stock.


Wayne

Porschephanatic

Bob, I'll sell you my good one for $30 bucks, but I recommend backdating to the pre-'75 sheet metal and forgetting about the electic blower! It'll really clean up the engine bay. I don't miss the blower and all the extra hoses at all on my '81 SC Targa. I actually get more heat now, except when idling at red lights. My 2 cents.

Bob's flat-six

Thanks, I'll do a search on the back-dating you recommend as I probably wouldn't miss the blower here in So. Cal. Thanks for the tip. If anybody has a pic of the motor backdated Please Post.
Cheers and Merry Christmas

<img src="graemlins/beerchug.gif" border="0" alt="[cheers]" />

Bill Gregory

Bob,

Here's a post from awhile ago that may be of interest:

Shortly after introducing CIS fuel injection in 1974/1975, Porsche changed how hot air was sent into the passenger cabin for heat and defrosting. Starting with the first 911 in 1965, the original air system consisted of a duct on either side of the fan housing routing air through the engine tin to the heat exchangers. The mid-70's system consisted of a fan mounted high on the left upper side of the engine bay, with 3 hoses, one for an air intake from the fan housing, and two hoses from the blower through the engine tin to each heat exchanger. Backdating the air system to the older style is easy to do, and Porsche sells the parts you'll need, or you can visit your favorite used parts dealer. You'll need the following parts:

Left hot air duct, 930.106.321.02, list $148.20
4 plastic nuts, 999.591.592.40, list $.12 each
2 rubber plugs, 999.703.044.50, list $.77 each
Right hot air duct, 911.106.327.00, list $53.45
Right engine cover plate, 911.106.036.00, list $14.89
Right engine cover, 911.106.827.00, list $5.04
Right air duct support, 911.106.331.00, list $1.30
Hose (see below)

The left hand air duct has a bunch of holes in it to fit 911's and 930's, and the rubber plugs and plastic nuts cover those holes and allow other things to be screwed to the housing. I put a screw into each plastic nut to pretty well close off those holes. The left hot air duct is metal, and the right duct is plastic, while the engine cover and plate are metal. The right air duct support is to bolt the right air duct to the larger plastic cover over the engine. I didn't use it, as things seem tight enough without it, however, we'll see if over time I need to add the support.

Installation is straight forward, take the existing blower and hoses out of the engine. On my 81SC, the bracket that holds the motor also holds one of the vacuum pipes, so I took the whole bracket off, and cut off the portion which held the motor, leaving the portion that holds a support for the pipe. Put the left hot air duct in. On the right, unscrew the cover plate and remove it. Put in the engine cover plate, followed by the right air duct, followed by the engine cover. The right air duct has some grooves in it where the engine cover cinches it up fairly tight.

Hoses: I used 4 feet of 2 1/2" SCAT hose (silcone rubber-based, good to 450 degrees) from Aircraft Spruce and Specialty, cost $21. You'll cut two pieces for the left side (duct to engine tin, then below engine tin to heat exchanger) and one longer piece on the right (duct to heat exchanger). I've also seen an aluminum-based hose used, as well as other types and colors. The hose has to stand the heat in the engine compartment and more importantly the heat at the heat exchanger connection.

That completes the installation. Assuming your heater boxes are working, and the wires to the heater controls on the floor are also intact, you're done! Not much heat at idle, it picks up well as the revs increase. If you open a window just a crack, then that helps the heated air move into the compartment. And, especially if you've removed your air conditioning compressor, you can now see alot more of the engine!

There's a picture of it on the first page <a href="http://tech.rennlist.com/911/Street_Track_Mods2.PDF" target="_blank">here</a>

RANDY P

SoCal?

Without a doubt, get rid of it. I'm in Seattle, and even when I take the car out in sub 40 deg. weather w/ rain (like last night) it's fine. If you replace it you'll be doing it again sooner than later.

rjp