rusnak

I wonder if it's the dreaded sensor issue. We did a 3.2 "no start" checklist a while ago and it might still be on here. I'll see if I can find it. Also the dme test plan is a goodie.

rusnak

From another forum (same system): https://rennlist.com/forums/924-931-...c-stumped.html

DME Test Plan: http://depositfiles.com/files/0852rfonu
(ignore the dating service ads, this is a free file hosting site, and the file is too large for me to post on Rennlist).

TroyN

You're saying the main problem is no fuel pump? That would sound like the ignition switch.

Lorenfb

"I wonder if it's the dreaded sensor issue."

If it really has a spark (and a good one - 10-20mm @ coil wire) then:

1. All the necessary grounds and power inputs are there.
2. Both the speed and reference signals are there.
3. The ignition switch is O.K.

Spray carb cleaner into the air cleaner and it should start.
Then focus on the fuel system, e.g. fuel pump, connections, & fuses.

rusnak

You can also check fuel pressure on the fuel rail, but if the injectors don't get a signal to open, then it won't run.

Joe6pack

Update. I tried your suggestion, Loren, but it didn't start. I am using a timing light and a battery booster a power source to check for spark. I have to admit, it seems a little intermittent, but I was attributing that to my old timing light. I went back and checked the voltages at the dme relay. I have to12 volts at pin 30, but only 9.5 at 87b with the relay plugged in and the engine cranking. Could it be the battery? Could it turn over normally, but not have enough juice to run the fuel pump or create a decent spark?

I may pull the battery and have it checked this afternoon.

Joe6pack

Update. I tried your suggestion, Loren, but it didn't start. I am using a timing light and a battery booster a power source to check for spark. I have to admit, it seems a little intermittent, but I was attributing that to my old timing light. I went back and checked the voltages at the dme relay. I have to12 volts at pin 30, but only 9.5 at 87b with the relay plugged in and the engine cranking. Could it be the battery? Could it turn over normally, but not have enough juice to run the fuel pump or create a decent spark?

I may pull the battery and have it checked this afternoon.

rusnak

Yes, it could be a bad or simply a weak battery or a bad ground cable, or bad/ dirty battery terminals. 3.2 Carreras eventually need the positive battery clamp to be cut off and replaced, and the ground cable to be replaced. I went with a gold plated Monster Cable battery clamp, and a longer and heavier ground cable.

You should check your battery voltage and just make sure the connections are clean and tight.

Joe6pack

Sorry about the double post. My wife got me one of these tablet thingies for Christmas and I'm still getting used to it.

Advance said the battery was "marginal". They are charging it and will test it again. I can pick it up at 6:30. I guess I'll know more then.

Joe6pack

Sorry about the double post. My wife got me one of these tablet thingies for Christmas and I'm still getting used to it.

Advance said the battery was "marginal". They are charging it and will test it again. I can pick it up at 6:30. I guess I'll know more then.

Joe6pack

Ok, it wasn't the battery, although the battery was failing. I think I'm starting to lose my sanity. I swear my timing light was triggering earlier, but now, nothing. So, I pulled a plug wire and tried to check for spark using an old plug - nothing. I have 12, volts at the coil. I checked the resistance at the speed and reference sensors and it's correct for both.

Truth is, it sounds like it isn't getting any spark. It doesn't even pretend it wants to fire. If it were firing, and even a little fuel got through, there would be some combustion. The coil is new, but I swapped in the old working one for grins - nothing.

I'll play with it some more tomorrow. Nothing makes sense right now.

rusnak

It would be better if you check the battery yourself. Confirm more than 12.5v. Then turn the key to the "run" position, and see if the icv is vibrating. If yes, then good switch and good first stage of the dme relay. Then crank the key to the "start" position to see if you can feel the fuel stage click on in the relay. If yes, then go to the engine, use a spare spark plug that has been grounded at the base on a jumper wire connected to the engine mounting bolt or some other good ground. If there is spark, then the sensors are good. If not, then probably a dme issue or a bad sensor(s). If the sensors are good, then it's time to dig deeper. I suggest reading up on the dme test plan at that point, but it probably is something far more basic.

Lorenfb

"If it really has a spark (and a good one - 10-20mm @ coil wire"

Just pull the coil wire from the distributor and place it close to the
alternator housing, i.e. This is the easiest 'no start' test and should
always be the 1st test in any 'no start' diagnosis.

If no spark then:

1. Check pins 1, 18, 35 for power with a test light (key 'on').
2. Ground on pins 5, 16, 17.
3. Check for speed signal on pins 8, 27 (~2.0 volts A.C.)
4. Check for ref signal on pins 25, 26 (~ .10 volts A.C.)
5. Check for flashing signal on one of the two coil pins.
6. Make sure coil is not a silver (junk) coil.

If 1-6 O.K., then the DME ECM is bad.

TroyN

Is the fuel pump running or not?

Lorenfb

"Is the fuel pump running or not?"

If there's no spark, the fuel pump issue is of secondary importance
and a waste of time as it appears most of the troubleshooting has
been on this thread. Check here for troubleshooting help;
http://www.systemsc.com/diagnostic.htm

Bottom line: An illogical troubleshooting procedure wastes time and
money (unnecessary parts)!