Don Plumley

When my '87 Carrera (64K miles) was up on the rack yesterday, we noticed a small leak coming from the shift shaft seal - it's starting to run up the tunnel a bit and leak through the plugs underneath it.

Tranny has new oil, but it's Swepco and I want to put in Mobil 1 (lots of other posts on the old board seem to concur this is the right oil for the G50) as I'm having a bit of sticking during shifts.

Anyway, my question is how difficult is it to replace the shifter seal? The mechanic wants to drop the motor. Anyone have any experience replacing this seal with the motor in the car?

Thanks,

Don

Mrdi

At 64, you're about due for a clutch. On the G50 that's a major expense 2500. When you are there you'll want to do the upgrades (fork, bushings etc.)You'll also want to replace seals and gas lines as indicated. Wait till the clutch is in need, and search on the BB's under G50 clutch for all the info that has been posted so you're not at anyones mercy.

Don Plumley

Thanks - but the car already has a new clutch and the update kit. That's why I'm trying to avoid dropping the engine (again).

Don

Mark Kiwior

I don't think you could get at that seal with the transmission in the car, there is little or no room where the shift rod exits the trans and goes into the car. I would try and just drop the trans and engine down without removing them. This should give enough clearance to replace the seal.
Pelican Parts has a tech article on replacing this seal with the engine/trans in the car. I've never tried this so you can be the judge.
Shift Rod Seal Replacement
Mark

[ 06-13-2001: Message edited by: Mark Kiwior ]

KLehmann

The shift rod on the G50 is a little different than the 915. There is a ring around the shift rod that is used to hold the rubber boot onto the trans. You have to get the ring off to get to the seal. Or maybe the ring is integrated into the seal. I don't know for sure, but it looks like the seal is behind the ring from what I remember seeing on the microfiche exploded diagram.

However it's set up, I don't think you can get the seal out from the inspection cover inside the car. I think you'd have to drop the engine/trans. enough to wrestle with that ring and pull the seal out. At least that's how it looked to me when I had the motor and trans. out this past winter.

I switched to Mobil after using Swepco once and I think the Mobil is much better.

[ 06-13-2001: Message edited by: KLehmann ]

Don Plumley

Pretty much what I expected - the Pelican article was for an older tranny. Well, looks like it might be time to learn how to drop the engine...

Thanks guys! Really appreciate the advice.

Don

KLehmann

Don,

As far as the CV boots are concerned, it's pretty straightforward. I'd say the job is a 4 or 5 out of 10. The biggest concern you have is making sure the CV joints themselves are reassembled properly if you take them apart. You don't have to take them apart, but it's good to look at the condition of the hubs and bearing ***** to make sure they're not excessively pitted/worn. Just note how they are oriented and come apart, and you can put them together again. You'll know if they're not lined up right upon reassembly. They'll bind up and not want to pivot. Just TAP the ***** out with a drift and move the hubs over one groove to get them lined up right.

Good to have a vice to hold the axle assemblies while working on the boots and removing the joints. A helper is good to have when putting the band clamps on the new boots.

Since the axle nuts are torqued to 340 lb-ft., I had to use the 3/4" breaker bar, extension, 32mm or 1-1/4" socket and a 4 ft. length of pipe to get the axle nuts off. 1/2" drive extensions (even impact/hardened) weren't strong enough and kept shearing apart.

Kevin