The M491 look makes my car an E car instead of a D car in PCA. Ed is right about the pad and rotor wear. Plus you're not rebuilding calipers all the time. The PO of my car did a lot of enduros in the southeast which was his reasoning for the change. And yes they look cool.

 

Thanks Bill...my thinking was the OP could use the later front rotors for cost savings and just ditch the 1" spacers? Currently he has those high offset front wheels...

 

ok - quick update - Talked to Steve directly (thank you Steve, Very helpful) did a bunch of measuring and decided to start the swap. since I'm running 17" C2 rims the offset will allow me to use the turbo hubs and rotors on the front (I think). if I don't have the clearance I need, I'll but the flat-hat rotors and use the original hubs. pulled the rear trailing arms and having a local race shop weld "ears" on and drill new mount holes to accommodate the rear calipers. rotors seem to fit but I'm not sure about the e-brake yet.
pictures to follow - wish me luck

 

Steve can really help you. I run his brakes on my "D" Prepared car and I will NOT give them up. The longevity of the setup is unbelievable. The pedal feel is always solid and consistent and these brakes give you a lot of confidence going into corners. Trust me, you will LOVE this setup once it's installed.

 

thanks for all the help and info guys. this group is great. one more question: looking at the new 23mm brake MC is see that there is a right and left port available. which do i have?? when I look at the MC, all the plumbing points toward the center of the car. is that a right or left port??
thanks ( and pix are coming, I promise)

 

can only get 1 pic to upload.
will try again later

 

1st shot is original setup
2nd with new cooling duct
3rd is new rotor
more to follow

 

You should look at the 993 air diverters for cooling instead of the ducting. Arguably more effective, cleaner looking, less prone to damage and much less money. I replaced my ducting with them, and have not suffered as a result.

 

Ed,
you know the rules..... Picture!

 

I'll grab one tomorrow, I'll have it on the lift to flush the brakes.

 

As promised, here are the 993 deflectors on my car. To mount on the A arms, simply requires strategic drilling and some Zip ties. They are a simple and elegant solution to throwing air at the rotors. I still have the backing plates for my old ducts....waiting for my rotors to need replacement before I remove them. I've got 309mm X 32mm Wilwood rotors up front under 993 four pot calipers. I've only worn about .6 mm in a few years and I don't know how many track days. Overbraked is good, in my book.

A few various shots of the mounting. You can see my modified struts too. If you do have an "agricultural excursion" at the track or an issue on the street, the deflector will simply rotate on the A arm. With ducts, I've seen a few ripped off, but I was pretty lucky with mine-I used metal Zip ties, as the plastic didn't seem to hold up there very well. I also question how effective the air scoops are on the ducts, when mounted below the A arms. If and when I change my front end, I may use bumper air inlets and go back to ducting.

 

thanks Ed, nice shots. i have an IROC front bumper with center Setrab oil cooler and air ducts, so i'm grabbing clean air. i plan to relocate the battery over the winter to the smugglers box and move the duct tubes thru the front trunk

 

I had reached the conclusion the little ducts under the A arm may not be that effective. they were also collecting track debris and ratteling around inside as I had screening before the duct to keep $#!+ from reaching the brakes/hub.

last winter I removed both of my fog lights and extened the duct to the front valance. I saw one guy use plastic pipe cut to fit around the A arm to enble the ducting to not have to go under the suspension. I have already caught my ducts once when loading onto the trailer as they are currently routed under the A arm.

my 84 928 has similar deflector plates on the suspension arms as what Ed shows, opening in the backing plates, and an openings in the front bumper/valence to allow air flow direct toward them.

I will try to add some pics, but for some time my browser (I hate MS) crashes when I try. need to install firefox.

so much time .... so little to do...

 

nother update - the front rotors and hubs are on and all the clearances look good. I decided not to butcher the rear calipers so the shop is welding a rear brace on the trailing arms. i'll mount the calipers to it just like the 930s. should have some pics by tomorrow. this has been a bit more work than i anticipated but the results should give me a solid 930 setup. looking forward to trying this out on the track in a couple of weeks. thank you to everyone for your help and comments

 

I have been talking to Steve Weiner as I am planning to upgrade my brakes this winter.

one issue we discussed is using screen on the brake duct to prefent stuff from getting blown into the brakes. he made a compelling argument that any screen will reduce the air flow. if you get any tar ***** or debris blown into the brakes, you just need to pull them off and clean.

as I prep my car for my next event at MidOhio, I plan to remove the screens I installed. hoping that by moving them up to the fog light opening will reduce the chance of track debris. until I get bigger brakes I definitely need all the cooling I can get. my last event in 90 degree heat, my brakes were getting mushy at the end of 30 min sessions as I was probably on the verge of boiling my fluid. ATE super blue at that.