Marlon Targa 86

I'm aware the general procedure, but I know there are always unexpected things that pop up.

Any advice?

Marlon

rusnak

Be prepared to be baptized. You'll see what I mean. If it's fighting you, then slow down. Follow the Bentley manual. Use the Force, save you it can.

ivangene

make sure your drain bucket has a huge hole AND vent to allow the oil in... warm the oil... dont get it hot!

remove the cap on the brake fluid resuvour .... remove some of the fluid if the pads are THIN... when you push the pistons IN the fluid has to go somewhere...

Ed Hughes

Just get the big open 15qt pan, and there are no issues with getting the oil in the pan, except getting it under the stream.

Edgy01

Both are child's play. Nothing to it.

ivangene

not true Ed..... my 15qt overfilled the top section because the hole or vent were too small (oil was too hot) what ever... it was a fricken mess! only about 1-2 cups of oil overflowed but that is a huge mess when you were not expecting it... I cut a second hole in it

KILRWAIL

Get the 15 qt pan with the open top and pour spout - the opening is about 12" square - you can's miss. And it's such a low profile (about 4"), that you don't need to raise the car; which is good if all you have is a floor jack. Make sure you get new crush washers for both the sump and tank plugs.

gr1275

I suspect what Ed is referring to is an open 15qt pan. I used one of the self contained 15 qt ones with the drain and vent and ended up with an overflow as the opening in the drain wasn't large enough to handle to volume. Once I took it to the store to recycle, I resigned it to transporting duties only and now have an open pan.

Gary

Ed Hughes

Ed-I know the type you referred to, and they are no good for this much oil. Mine is an open pan, which is what I recommended. Has handles and a pour spout too.

ricster

got a picture of it ed?

Tango635

Agreed, the oil pan must be of the open type.

Of course, you are supposed to change the oil only after you have gotten the engine to operating temp. So when the oil comes out it will be fairly hot. To that end, I used a cotton glove, then a latex glove on top of that and then another cotton glove on top of that. The purpose of the outer glove is to soak up any oil so that it doesn't run down your arm. The latex glove is to make sure the oil doesn't get to your skin, and the inner cotton glove is for thermal protection. I'm sure there's a different, maybe better way to do it. Other may chime in.

Also, not a must have but a 3/8" drive torque for tightening the engine drain plug is helpful, 40 ft-lbs IIRC. I used a 1/2" drive and it was a little awkward (handle was too long), but the car was sitting on the ground, not jacked or on ramps.

On removing the oil filter, I used a tip I saw on Pelican. I punched a small hole into the side and on top of the oil filter and blew it down with compressed air. The purpose is to get the oil out of the filter so that when you remove it, you don't have an oily mess in the engine compartment. It worked, not a drop of oil. I was really impressed with that tip!

Hope that helps, good luck.

ivangene

Yes, Ed... thats the one... the "no good one" which I was trying to explain and think some of the posts helped...the "open" top is the way to go, that other one duth sucketh !!

Ed Hughes

No pics, on a plane to Philly for the week.

rusnak

Just get your pneumatic or electric dye grinder out, and cut a big hole in the top of the enclosed oil pan. Those things suck at storing or trasporting oil anyway. Store and transport oil in a metal gas can

Ed Hughes

Ahh, but the open one is nice, you can clean it before putting on the shelf. Was cheaper too, iirc.