Cruise Control Module Repair
#32
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
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Thanks Loren for tthe troubleshooting tips
Youre' absolutely right. I used to maintain radars in the Air Force and we used to troubleshoot to the component level...the not so good technicians would swaptronics. Unfortunately I don't have the equipment need to troubleshoot this correctly. I went as far as unsoldering the resistor (which by the way is a 130 Ohnm not a 2RO as I originally thought). Loren you were correct, the resistor is good. Soldered it back on and while I was at it, I passed the soldering iron on a couple of runs.
So this is where I am. I noticed a few days ago that the cruise control would engage not after I set it, but after I depressed the clutch pedal, so there's a problem with the clutch switch. I troubleshot using the Bentley and indeed the switch doesn't check out. Supposed to have 10 Ohms...got an open. So there's one issue.
I believe I also have a problem with the module as now the cruise control will engage but will not maintain speed for more than 5 or 10 seconds. Maybe I do have some bad solder runs, I'm really not too keen on passing the soldering iron on every run on the board. I was pretty good with a soldering iron 15 years ago but I don't feel like messing with it. The solvent I bought barely took the coating off, so I much rather send it out and get it repaired correctly.
Youre' absolutely right. I used to maintain radars in the Air Force and we used to troubleshoot to the component level...the not so good technicians would swaptronics. Unfortunately I don't have the equipment need to troubleshoot this correctly. I went as far as unsoldering the resistor (which by the way is a 130 Ohnm not a 2RO as I originally thought). Loren you were correct, the resistor is good. Soldered it back on and while I was at it, I passed the soldering iron on a couple of runs.
So this is where I am. I noticed a few days ago that the cruise control would engage not after I set it, but after I depressed the clutch pedal, so there's a problem with the clutch switch. I troubleshot using the Bentley and indeed the switch doesn't check out. Supposed to have 10 Ohms...got an open. So there's one issue.
I believe I also have a problem with the module as now the cruise control will engage but will not maintain speed for more than 5 or 10 seconds. Maybe I do have some bad solder runs, I'm really not too keen on passing the soldering iron on every run on the board. I was pretty good with a soldering iron 15 years ago but I don't feel like messing with it. The solvent I bought barely took the coating off, so I much rather send it out and get it repaired correctly.
Last edited by salukijac; 06-28-2010 at 11:19 AM. Reason: misspelled word
#33
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"I'm really not too keen on passing the soldering iron on every run on the board."
That's a problem, as one never really knows if a solder 'bridge' occurred
during the process and not easy to find.
That's a problem, as one never really knows if a solder 'bridge' occurred
during the process and not easy to find.
#35
Rennlist Member
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BTW,..what is supposed to be the value of that heated resistor? Even if 200 ohms, it's WAY out of 5% spec....I thought it would be 2 ohms? Are there numbers on its backside?
Doyle
Doyle
#36
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
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The resistor specs were on the bottom side so I couldn't read it while it was mounted on the circuit board. It's a 130 R 10% and it read exactly 130 on the good ol' ohmmeter.
I definitely have a bad module. As I was driving to work today the speedometer started bouncing and cuttig off. As I was driving I pulled the plug off the cruise control module and the speedometer started working again. I think I may have located a good working module, if that doesn't pan out, then out for repairs it goes.
I definitely have a bad module. As I was driving to work today the speedometer started bouncing and cuttig off. As I was driving I pulled the plug off the cruise control module and the speedometer started working again. I think I may have located a good working module, if that doesn't pan out, then out for repairs it goes.