Cracked air box - able to fix?
#1
Instructor
Thread Starter
Cracked air box - able to fix?
I was replacing my air filter the other day and noticed a small crack - aprox. an inch on the bottom of the air box.
The car starts and runs fine. Can I put some expoxy over this or do I need to a new air box?
The car starts and runs fine. Can I put some expoxy over this or do I need to a new air box?
#3
Rennlist Member
Tough call! Is it possible to take a picture of the crack and post it?
While you're looking check the seam where the upper and lower sections of the box are glued together (especially on the left side, below the intake air snout of the filter cover). There will be a row of Phillips-head screws along the seam. That seam should not have any fractures/cracks along it.
Now, please look at the right side of the box. There is a flat, vertical surface a couple of inches below the fuel distributor. Is there a blue sticker there, or remnants of a sticker?
While you're looking check the seam where the upper and lower sections of the box are glued together (especially on the left side, below the intake air snout of the filter cover). There will be a row of Phillips-head screws along the seam. That seam should not have any fractures/cracks along it.
Now, please look at the right side of the box. There is a flat, vertical surface a couple of inches below the fuel distributor. Is there a blue sticker there, or remnants of a sticker?
#6
I haddah Google dat
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
I fixed my girlfriend's Maza airbox with JB Weld and some foil tape that is used on AC ducting. The SC airbox is basically the foundation of the entire system, so it needs to be rigid. I agree - it depends on where the crack is located.
#7
Instructor
Thread Starter
Tough call! Is it possible to take a picture of the crack and post it?
While you're looking check the seam where the upper and lower sections of the box are glued together (especially on the left side, below the intake air snout of the filter cover). There will be a row of Phillips-head screws along the seam. That seam should not have any fractures/cracks along it.
Now, please look at the right side of the box. There is a flat, vertical surface a couple of inches below the fuel distributor. Is there a blue sticker there, or remnants of a sticker?
While you're looking check the seam where the upper and lower sections of the box are glued together (especially on the left side, below the intake air snout of the filter cover). There will be a row of Phillips-head screws along the seam. That seam should not have any fractures/cracks along it.
Now, please look at the right side of the box. There is a flat, vertical surface a couple of inches below the fuel distributor. Is there a blue sticker there, or remnants of a sticker?
I checked the seams and they look great -- no cracks or fractures that I can see.
There is no blue sticker or remnants of the sticker.
Here is the picture of the crack. It is in the upper left hand corner on the bottom.
Last edited by mc_renn; 08-14-2012 at 02:17 PM.
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#8
Team Owner
that pic is too close i can't get a frame of reference
the last thing you need to do is suck a chunk of JB weld in to one of your intake runners. i would feel much better using marine silicon. I think that would be pliable enought o make a seal and be flexible. less likely to suck a hunk in and if you did it would burn up,
Just a thought , no real expertise
the last thing you need to do is suck a chunk of JB weld in to one of your intake runners. i would feel much better using marine silicon. I think that would be pliable enought o make a seal and be flexible. less likely to suck a hunk in and if you did it would burn up,
Just a thought , no real expertise
#9
Instructor
Thread Starter
that pic is too close i can't get a frame of reference
the last thing you need to do is suck a chunk of JB weld in to one of your intake runners. i would feel much better using marine silicon. I think that would be pliable enought o make a seal and be flexible. less likely to suck a hunk in and if you did it would burn up,
Just a thought , no real expertise
the last thing you need to do is suck a chunk of JB weld in to one of your intake runners. i would feel much better using marine silicon. I think that would be pliable enought o make a seal and be flexible. less likely to suck a hunk in and if you did it would burn up,
Just a thought , no real expertise
#10
Poseur
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Ideally, use a product known in the aerospace business as RTV -- room temperature vulcanizing -- sort of like GE silicon, only the best aerospace grade stuff around.
#11
Team Owner
pretty well all silicons are RTV i believe these days .. On my airbox I used a product called 3m marine adhesive 5200 to glue my airbox back together. It works pretty well but i have to tell you it took nearly 3 friggin weeks to caur .. must have been a special RTV that assumed your room was on the friggen sun. if you can get a quick drying formula that would be great . in fact i think i saw it on the shelf and didn't get it . it is available in any marine supply store.
#12
Rennlist Member
Can't get a reference on the pic - pull back a bit to get more of the unit into the pic.