Marc Bixen

race911, This is not aplicable to 3.6 (964/993) engines. They use a completely different oil galley setup and no cam oil lines. This applies to all 911 engines up to and including 84-89 3.2 carreras as well as turbos through the early 3.3 liter 964 turbo.

Here's the photos:
The fititng on the left is the update version 901.105.361.01 with the groove, while the fitting on the right is the early style NLA 901.105.361.00.
As for the seal washers 1974 and later use a steel 12x16 washer part # 900.123.005.00 while 65-73 uses #900.123.005.30 an aluminium 12x16 washer. 6 in total to repair both sides. One for each fitting, two for each banjo bolt. There is no change to the banjo bolt so reuse the originals.

Marc Bixen

Well I just read ALL the other posts and links and when I got through what I realized is that no one has installed these fittings and then complained about ANY top end related failures. Hence the update must work. As for racers I believe that Porsches reasoning of aerated oil is directly relevant to track usage and by keeping the oil level higher in the crank case prevents bearing failure.
My 2 cents

race911

Yeah. While I've had my hands in a few hundred up-to-3.2L engines, I've only been into maybe a dozen 3.6's. My confusion was specifically on the 3.3 965 engine. I'd guessed it was a carryover, but I can't ever remember looking at one; and I've never been into one. Is a '94 3.6L turbo as the NA engines, or as the 3.3's?

theiceman

wow what a huge difference in sizes..

Marc Bixen

As the 964/993 set up with oil galleys cast in the chain housing.

Ed Hughes

I've had the resticters in my poseesion for a couple of rounds of engine build now. I'm really scared to put them in. I've not seen any issues with bad pressure at idle, and no evidence of issues with piston cooling. I suppose that can all change now with higher compression and 98mm bore. What to do, what to do....

theiceman

go with what you know .... you can always put them in later if you see you have pressure issues

originalmotorhead

Well, got the washers finally so i have all the pieces now(6 washers and 2 adapters).

Hoping to do the install over the weekend, that is if I can find the torque specs in the Bentley manual that I have.

Tom

rusnak

My question is: do those piston oil squirters "open" up at 5,000 rpm and not lower? That makes no sense. It's not like they are injectors. And if so, I agree that is way too high, hence the need for restrictors. Seems like a better solution would be to bore them out a little, so that you have full flow to both the cam spray bar and the piston squirters. Restricting flow seem so very counter intuitive.

Peter Zimmermann

NOTE: I have just completed a Tutorial for this job, including a list of questions and some thoughts regarding this modification. The Tutorial has been sent to Marc Bixen, and with luck should be posted in the next few days. When it's up I'll post a LINK.

originalmotorhead

Update !

I did the swap yesterday. I now see consistantly higher oil pressure on the gauge and the oil level gauge seems to stay more stable too. It was extremely painless job.

Only thing that took a bit of time was that I removed the ac compressor, compressor brackets, and the ac radiator from the rear of the car. AC did not work and when i cracked the lines open, not even a hiss so it was empy anyway. Because that radiator/evaporator/whatever is not there, seems like the engine temp is a tad lower on freeway now. woo hoo. bonus.

btw, dealer charged me 15 for each bolt and 2 for each steel washer.

Tom

Peter Zimmermann

Additional note; "our" IT guy has not been available to put up the Tutorial, but I'll post a link ASAP!

whalebird

race911. there was no responce to your question, and IIRC, the 3.6 965 was based on the 3.3 of the earlier variety. It was years ago that we were racing a 965 and I thought I had all the answers then, but now I have to dig into PET, or google like crazy before I post...so I may stand corrected on this.

whalebird

A quick search reveals the 3.6 is based on the 3.3 WITH CIS.

Peter Zimmermann

AMAZING! I know that my Tutorial is promised to another site, with an MIA IT guy, but in the mean time I can tell you that I just drove my car. 100F ambient. Cruised a few miles, not exceeding 50 mph, to Stockdale hwy, where I was able to increase speed to between 60 and 70. The oil temp went to 210F and stopped. Similar pre-mod experience was 220-225F in the same conditions.

I then headed for a local neighborhood where I could cruise around for a few miles, which pre-mod would take my car up to 240F+. Today, while able to keep the revs between 3200 and 3800, I was able to keep the oil piston squirters open (with oil pressure between 3.2 and 3.4 BAR at 3500 rpm) more often and longer. After many stops and starts, the oil temp slowly crawled up to 220F, pre-mod the car might have seen 250F.

This is why my car has spent it's last five summers in the garage. Now, I can't wait to take it for a 40-mile ride at 70+ mph on Highway 99, just to see what happens. Last time I did that I saw temps of 250F, and oil pressure no higher than 2.5 BAR (too low to open the piston squirters). I will probably wait for the first 105F+ day to do this, so stay tuned.

It would appear, at this point, that Porsche developed these oil pressure "check valves" to allow operating pressure to be high enough to better control operating temperature (because of open piston oil squirters, used since 1970). If that assumption is fact, then the modification is pure genius. I now consider, after only one hot-day test, that my car, for the first time, is safe to drive in Bakersfield, CA, in the summer. Hot-diggity!