Engine cut out this morning...
06-11-2002 | 05:30 PM
#1
Thread Starter
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Engine cut out this morning...
Car is an 82 911SC with stock CIS.
Coming to work this morning, driving along, fully warmed up, constant throttle, about 3000rpm in 3rd, the engine cut out. I looked at the tach and saw the needle dropping like a stone, it almost got to zero when it returned to normal and power came back. This is the first and only time this has happened.
I don't know if this is something altogether new, or a new symptom of an ongoing problem.
I have been chasing an intermittent cold start problem, the symptoms of which are engine cranks and cranks, and smells like gas. I had my wrench check the CIS pressures for me, and he adjusted the WUR because the cold control pressure was off, causing it to run way too rich when cold. After this adjustment, the car has much better manners when cold, but I still had a problem on cold start a couple times. I replaced the Thermo-time switch with a known good one to try and eliminate it as a problem. I haven't had any starting problems since then, so I was thinking that it may have been the cause, making the cold start valve to pump whenever the starter is engaged, causing flooding if it doesn't start right away. This has only happened one time when the engine wasn't completely cold (drove about 5 minutes to get breakfast, after eating I came out and it wouldn't start, same symptoms, cranked off and on for a minute or so, no luck, waited a min, started on first crank).
Possibly related, yesterday on the way home, I had the air conditioning on just after leaving work, and I stalled the car at a red light (my fault, lower idle from A/C on, too quick on the clutch). It was difficult to restart, but when I turned off the A/C it fired right up.
Other symptoms which may or may not be related, intermittent ping under full throttle load, >3000 rpms with engine fully hot. I also found out when I got it smogged a couple months ago that the tach is off slightly, and reads about 200 RPM slow. It passed smog with flying colors. Timing is set to spec, and mechanical advance appears to be working properly. I only use Chevron Premium gas. Oil consumption is high, at 1 qt/300 miles or so, but it doesn't smoke and the plugs look fine.
Other things I have done when trying to solve the cold start problem:
Replaced the coil (leaking black stuff), new OEM part.
Tested the Permatune box using the instructions on their web page. It passed all the tests.
Checked the green wire on the distributor. Tested OK.
Cap, rotor and plug wires are about 1 year/10Kmiles old. Spark plugs are a month old.
Any ideas where to look?
Thanks,
Tom
Coming to work this morning, driving along, fully warmed up, constant throttle, about 3000rpm in 3rd, the engine cut out. I looked at the tach and saw the needle dropping like a stone, it almost got to zero when it returned to normal and power came back. This is the first and only time this has happened.
I don't know if this is something altogether new, or a new symptom of an ongoing problem.
I have been chasing an intermittent cold start problem, the symptoms of which are engine cranks and cranks, and smells like gas. I had my wrench check the CIS pressures for me, and he adjusted the WUR because the cold control pressure was off, causing it to run way too rich when cold. After this adjustment, the car has much better manners when cold, but I still had a problem on cold start a couple times. I replaced the Thermo-time switch with a known good one to try and eliminate it as a problem. I haven't had any starting problems since then, so I was thinking that it may have been the cause, making the cold start valve to pump whenever the starter is engaged, causing flooding if it doesn't start right away. This has only happened one time when the engine wasn't completely cold (drove about 5 minutes to get breakfast, after eating I came out and it wouldn't start, same symptoms, cranked off and on for a minute or so, no luck, waited a min, started on first crank).
Possibly related, yesterday on the way home, I had the air conditioning on just after leaving work, and I stalled the car at a red light (my fault, lower idle from A/C on, too quick on the clutch). It was difficult to restart, but when I turned off the A/C it fired right up.
Other symptoms which may or may not be related, intermittent ping under full throttle load, >3000 rpms with engine fully hot. I also found out when I got it smogged a couple months ago that the tach is off slightly, and reads about 200 RPM slow. It passed smog with flying colors. Timing is set to spec, and mechanical advance appears to be working properly. I only use Chevron Premium gas. Oil consumption is high, at 1 qt/300 miles or so, but it doesn't smoke and the plugs look fine.
Other things I have done when trying to solve the cold start problem:
Replaced the coil (leaking black stuff), new OEM part.
Tested the Permatune box using the instructions on their web page. It passed all the tests.
Checked the green wire on the distributor. Tested OK.
Cap, rotor and plug wires are about 1 year/10Kmiles old. Spark plugs are a month old.
Any ideas where to look?
Thanks,
Tom
06-11-2002 | 06:02 PM
#2
Thread Starter
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
I forgot to mention, the Fuel pump is also new. Replaced about a month ago because it was whining like the BMW guys at the <a href="http://forums.pelicanparts.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=68990" target="_blank">Open Track Challenge.</a> 
Tom
Tom
