dshepp806

Just changed my front pads this past weekend,....I had "moaning" going on at slow take-off speeds. I made sure the piston position was just enough to allow new pads in........I can tell I'll need to rebuild these calipers soon...the pistons were extended a bit,..crocus-clothed,..lubed,..repositioned for pad insertion.......no bleeding ....gonna' run her for a few hundred miles then see what I've got....aybe a bleed down the road (new brake soft lines installed a VERY short while back......complete FLUSH at that time_.

Thanks for this info as to rebuild issues with that rubber seal (it's function/form/fit)...will relish (with other threads) when I partake...

Best,

Doyle

dshepp806

As to pad condition (and possible relation to "moaning) , I'll post this in another thread..........

Doyle

dshepp806

Back to thread: I'd vibrate (with that soft hammer) while bleeding.....at least first.

rusnak

Did you use a Motive brake bleeder, Ric? Which method did you use, and did you remove the overflow vent tube clamp after bleeding?

When all else fails, I resort back to pedal bleeding, which everyone says is a no-no. I've had to do this a couple of times after refreshening the caliper seals. Did you make sure that the caliper bolts are nice and tight?

Ed Hughes

Pedal bleeding isn't the no-no. Pushing the pedal all the way to the floor is the problem-you'll destroy the seal inside the m/c. Personally, I think Power Bleeders kinda suck, and have been bleeding via the pedal and speed bleeders for years.

rusnak

I have to agree, I think pedal and speed bleeders have got to be inherently better, given that you don't push the pedal beyond the normal travel distance. Basically, I have a helper stand on the pedal with it blocked on the floor (so it does not go all the way to the floor), and I crack the adjusting screw about a second, then quickly re-tighten. Usually more air comes out, even if I've power bled the MC.

ivangene

I read that some people dont put brake fluid in the power bleeder... as long as you dont let it run low, that sounds less messy to me. - I filled mine up, wanst bad.... doing them alone the power bleeder was nice... infact I let my son do it on the 996 (2 bleeders/caliper) and he did a great job

OT tonight he was under the 86' asking "whats that" and what's that" we put in the new tranny mounts

Tango635

^^^^^ That's the way I power bleed, basically. But instead of having the temporary cap and hose connected to the power bleeder, i have it connected to my compressor and pressure regulator set between 10-15 psi. It works OK, but the method I like best (if I have an available helper) is the pedal and speed bleed.

I think you have air in the lines somehow. If I were you, i would run the car enough to get the brake system as warm as safely possible. Then take it to the garage and start bleeding starting with the wheel furthest from the master cylinder using the pedal and speed bleeder method. Proceed to do all four wheels working your way to the closest wheel to the MC last.

Ed Hughes

That's the point-why use it then? If you're going to be pressurizing, and topping up the M/C to keep the PB clean by not filling it, then just buy Speed Bleeders and do it with the pedal. Less chance for error too, IMO. Having an accident with brake fluid would be no fun.

I've got big calipers and 2 bleed points on each corner on mine. With my Speed Bleeders, I can flush my brakes in 15 minutes by myself, and know I've got a good bleed. I also flush my brakes 3 or 4 times per year, so I've done all methods plenty. If the Power Bleeder was truly a better mousetrap, believe me, I'd use it.

I used to fill Power Bleeder with fluid and do it that way, but I spent more time cleaning the damn thing when I was done. I wasn't keen on old fluid remains or some form of contaminant entering my system. Again, another score for Speed Bleeders.

Power Bleeders certainly work, but are not worth the effort. Speed Bleeders are truly the improvement on the age-old method of bleeding via the pedal.

ivangene

boy no kidding on the mess (the bleeder, not anything else) and I sure dont like old brake fluid either.

maybe I will sell the power bleeder and get a speed bleeder - more toys

Ed Hughes

You'll need more than one...Speed Bleeders won't probably count as "toys" as they go on the caliper in lieu of the stock bleed screws. They are just a bleeder with a one way check valve that won't allow you to suck air back in when you release the pedal. Again, 1/2 strokes are imperative-full pedal strokes will have you buying a new M/C in short order.

My last tip- Motul RBF600 fluid-the best bang for the buck!

ivangene

rut roe... another "oil thread" LOL

I used castro gtlma on the 996, I will ask my indy on the 86' - gives me something to stop by and poke around the shop asking about

rusnak

....When you use the Motive power bleeder, do not disconnect the cap on the brake reservior first.

Loosen the neck of the bleeder tank first. This will suck all of the fluid back into the Motive bleeder tank, then you can remove the cap with no mess at all.

ivangene

well duh


I read that like 5 times.... and that is all i could think of

sig_a

To prevent air from being drawn back into the caliper during manual "foot bleeding", simply be certain the end of the catch bottle tubing remains submerged in brake fluid. No need for leaky speed bleeding one way check valve nipple gizmos made in china. Used correctly, Motive pressure bleeder can be used without spilling a drop.

ricster most likely has trapped air in the calipers he rebuilt. Not sure new cylinder seals are his problem. Bleeding after rebuild is completely different than simple "track bleed".