Turbo Tie Rods?
08-14-2002, 04:01 PM
#16
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[quote]<strong>is there really a big difference between the Sports and HD versions? I need the car to still be streetable as we drive it to DEs and AutoX and I also like to drive it around town and such. </strong><hr></blockquote>
I had the Sports installed with 22/29's and larger adjustable sways, and I found it to be quite streetable. However, if $$ are a consideration, buy a set of the HD's for the front, and go! Steve Weiner is a proponent of HD's in front and Sports in the rear.
I had the Sports installed with 22/29's and larger adjustable sways, and I found it to be quite streetable. However, if $$ are a consideration, buy a set of the HD's for the front, and go! Steve Weiner is a proponent of HD's in front and Sports in the rear.
08-14-2002, 04:11 PM
#17
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I put in for a quote from Shox.com so I will see if this is in budget. I suppose I may be able to sell the rear HDs at half the original price to get something back.
At the moment I have my 9 inch Fuchs in back and the stock 6 inch ones in front - I must be the only person running 6x9s on a Carrera
At the moment I have my 9 inch Fuchs in back and the stock 6 inch ones in front - I must be the only person running 6x9s on a Carrera
08-14-2002, 08:32 PM
#18
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Bill - the car handles much better with just changing the rear tires to my 9 inch Fuchs. I would love to get the 7s in place and then I could make a call on the shocks. Do you know anywhere I can look for basic instructions for raising the front as you describe above?
08-14-2002, 09:43 PM
#19
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Cmon, go for it - I ran 8's and 9's on my SC on the track. Nice combination. But I digress. Raising the height is covered in the Bentley Service Manual (buy.com has the $120 list Carrera 87-89 for $77.81 delivered, and alldirect.com has it for $80.22 delivered. [results from two search engines]. Always check <a href="http://www.dealcatcher.com" target="_blank">www.dealcatcher.com</a> for coupons before ordering). Or the factory service manual is a bunch more. It's really easy. There's an online process which covers basically what I'll lay out below at <a href="http://www.centralpaporsche.org/tech_sch/tbars.htm" target="_blank">http://www.centralpaporsche.org/tech_sch/tbars.htm</a>
Jack up the front end. Remove the 2 nuts and 2 bolts holding the tray underneath the steering column and a-arm ends. At the end closest to the driver of each a-arm, you'll see a cap on the end of the a-arm and a vertical bolt through it. That's what you'll be adjusting. Lower the chassis back to the ground, bounce on the front end, maybe even drive it around the block so the front end is well settled. Park it. Measure each front wheel from ground to top of fender lip. Using your 11mm? socket, turn one of the vertical bolts counter clockwise and you'll see the body going up (or maybe down
). I'd raise it 1/4", then go do the other side, raising it a 1/4". Does that do it for you? OK, maybe do it again another 1/4" each side. Done? By all rights, you should probably adjust the rear to maintain the proper forward rake, but that's involved, and maybe not mandatory. You'll get a flavor for the procedure if you read the article mentioned above. You want to have around 1.5 degree forward rake. If all done, reattach the lower metal plate.
Jack up the front end. Remove the 2 nuts and 2 bolts holding the tray underneath the steering column and a-arm ends. At the end closest to the driver of each a-arm, you'll see a cap on the end of the a-arm and a vertical bolt through it. That's what you'll be adjusting. Lower the chassis back to the ground, bounce on the front end, maybe even drive it around the block so the front end is well settled. Park it. Measure each front wheel from ground to top of fender lip. Using your 11mm? socket, turn one of the vertical bolts counter clockwise and you'll see the body going up (or maybe down
). I'd raise it 1/4", then go do the other side, raising it a 1/4". Does that do it for you? OK, maybe do it again another 1/4" each side. Done? By all rights, you should probably adjust the rear to maintain the proper forward rake, but that's involved, and maybe not mandatory. You'll get a flavor for the procedure if you read the article mentioned above. You want to have around 1.5 degree forward rake. If all done, reattach the lower metal plate.
08-14-2002, 09:53 PM
#20
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Thanks Bill - I just spoke to my mechanic and he gave me basically the same instructions (yours are a bit more complete). The 9 inch Fuchs sure do look good on the narrow body Carrera. The donor car, my 86 930, is running 18 inch 2002 996TT wheels, which also look great on that car.
My mechanic is really encouraging me to go for the sport Bilsteins all around - which is rare - he usually tells me I do not really need an upgrade I am considering. Shox.com quoted me $440 for a set of 4, so I am debating.
My mechanic is really encouraging me to go for the sport Bilsteins all around - which is rare - he usually tells me I do not really need an upgrade I am considering. Shox.com quoted me $440 for a set of 4, so I am debating.
08-15-2002, 03:53 PM
#21
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Well adjusting the ride height was pretty easy. My front end was really low and off kilter. 24 1/8 of the left and 24 3/4 on the right. Set it to approx. 25.5 on both sides and the 7 inch fuchs fit fine. The 7 x 9s alone make a big difference (they have almost new RE730s on them) and the floaty feeling I initially noted is basically gone. The turbo tie rods are on order and I will have them installed and the car corner balanced soon. Then it is off to my first AutoX in my "new" car.
Bill - as a side note, the tray under the steering column does not need to be removed to access the ride height bolts (although I did remove to take a look inside). Thanks for the help.
Bill - as a side note, the tray under the steering column does not need to be removed to access the ride height bolts (although I did remove to take a look inside). Thanks for the help.
08-16-2002, 04:27 AM
#22
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ZCat, make sure you check and see if you have the "bump steer" spacers underneath the steering rack...they're about 10mm (or so) aluminum spacers.
Do this BEFORE you go in for any re-alignment...it will also help the feedback through the steering column.
Do this BEFORE you go in for any re-alignment...it will also help the feedback through the steering column.
08-16-2002, 01:11 PM
#23
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Thanks Jeff - I will ask my shop to do that when they install the tie rods next week.
It looks like my front shock towers have been opened, so I am thinking I may already have newer shocks in there. How hard is it to open the tower and look to see whatshcok inserts are in there? I tried to turn the top nut the other day, but it felt like I was twisting something inside, so I did not turn it very hard.
It looks like my front shock towers have been opened, so I am thinking I may already have newer shocks in there. How hard is it to open the tower and look to see whatshcok inserts are in there? I tried to turn the top nut the other day, but it felt like I was twisting something inside, so I did not turn it very hard.
