Oil leak at #8 bearing/seal
#1
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Oil leak at #8 bearing/seal
I recently rebuilt a 3.2 ltr for my race car. After apx 3.5 hrs of track time an oil leak has developed where case halfs meet at the nose bearing.
At 190 degree oil temp and 60 psi and at 2500 rpm, there is constant drip of one drop per 3 seconds or so. The engine is leak free elsewhere.
Is there an external fix that will reduce or eliminate the leak even temporally? Temporally meaning at least a weekend event of 3 hrs of track time. Thanks for for assistance.
Signed,
Backyard mechanic.
At 190 degree oil temp and 60 psi and at 2500 rpm, there is constant drip of one drop per 3 seconds or so. The engine is leak free elsewhere.
Is there an external fix that will reduce or eliminate the leak even temporally? Temporally meaning at least a weekend event of 3 hrs of track time. Thanks for for assistance.
Signed,
Backyard mechanic.
#2
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Location: San Luis Obispo, CA
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I think that there's a small flange around that area held on with 3 6mm bolts, I can't remember if it's on 3.2's or only 3.0's and earlier. Anyway, that area weeps sometimes, but with the rate that you're talking about, it sounds more like the seal is screwed up, it's easy to do.
I would pull off the motor mount, clean the area, rtv under the flange, and install a new seal, taking care not to bend it or get it in crooked.
Hey, do you have a yellow 914 with a formula ford looking wing? If so, I saw you at Laguna last weekend, I'll probably see you at Buttonwillow in a couple weeks, I'll come say hi.
I would pull off the motor mount, clean the area, rtv under the flange, and install a new seal, taking care not to bend it or get it in crooked.
Hey, do you have a yellow 914 with a formula ford looking wing? If so, I saw you at Laguna last weekend, I'll probably see you at Buttonwillow in a couple weeks, I'll come say hi.
#3
i'm afraid you will have to totally disassemble the engine to fix it. there's no patch you can put on it that will stop the leak. very annoying. i had to do that on a 77 930 a couple of years ago. seems the loctite 574 i always used was a bad batch and too much of it remained between the case 1/2s when they were torqued, causing the #8 o ring to not be compressed tight enough. that was the last time i used 574.
#4
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Hello
The trick is to have the rubberring on #8 bathed in silicone or clycerine and not to forget the pin.
Sealing on the rubber will not allow to float the bearing.
Also not to forget allways messure the berings if you buy new ones. Some from them have a slight to large outher diameter ( Splied by Clyco and Porsche ). Now Porsche said they junked them but some dealers maybe have NOS and we have dealers buying the Porsche junk for resale. Porsche tried to stop that but they can´t controll the complete way to the melting top nor hammer each part.
Only chance now is to retighten the case in that area and use some iky hardening sealant. But thats an ill fix.
First step is to look if not the intermediade shaft acces hole cover is the problem as Steve sugessts.
Browse the archives here, at Pelicans and at PCA potomac as this issue was covered several times. Mail the guys if it worked.
Grüsse
The trick is to have the rubberring on #8 bathed in silicone or clycerine and not to forget the pin.
Sealing on the rubber will not allow to float the bearing.
Also not to forget allways messure the berings if you buy new ones. Some from them have a slight to large outher diameter ( Splied by Clyco and Porsche ). Now Porsche said they junked them but some dealers maybe have NOS and we have dealers buying the Porsche junk for resale. Porsche tried to stop that but they can´t controll the complete way to the melting top nor hammer each part.
Only chance now is to retighten the case in that area and use some iky hardening sealant. But thats an ill fix.
First step is to look if not the intermediade shaft acces hole cover is the problem as Steve sugessts.
Browse the archives here, at Pelicans and at PCA potomac as this issue was covered several times. Mail the guys if it worked.
Grüsse