[Another] Idle Problem
#31
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Wow, that is incredibly generous of you. If you are sure you won't need it for week or so, then I will take you up on it. Let me know what your shipping costs are and I will be happy to reimburse you when I send it back. I will PM you tomorrow.
In the meantime, I pulled my ICV off to clean it again. It really looks clean. I checked the impedences per the Bentley manual. I'm getting around 20.6 ohms from one outside terminal to the center terminal and 21.6 ohms on the other. The total impedence between the two outside terminals is around 22.6 ohms. The manual says the outside terminals to the center terminal should be 20 ohms and the impedence between the outside terminals should be 40 ohms. My readings are higher, but the manual doesn't say how far out of spec is too far.
Thanks,
John
In the meantime, I pulled my ICV off to clean it again. It really looks clean. I checked the impedences per the Bentley manual. I'm getting around 20.6 ohms from one outside terminal to the center terminal and 21.6 ohms on the other. The total impedence between the two outside terminals is around 22.6 ohms. The manual says the outside terminals to the center terminal should be 20 ohms and the impedence between the outside terminals should be 40 ohms. My readings are higher, but the manual doesn't say how far out of spec is too far.
Thanks,
John
#32
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Testing the idle control valve:
1. Static test - measure each winding from the center pin to each outer pin,
ohms reading should be about 20 - 22 ohms for each winding.
2. Dynamic tests of valve & DME -
I. idle-up test
a. warm-up the engine
b. remove the valve
c. rotate the vane so that the valve is closed
d. re-attach the valve without connecting the connector
e. start the engine and the idle should be low
f. reconnect the connector and the idle should increase to about normal RPM
II. idle-down test
a. remove the valve
b. rotate the vane so that the valve is fully open
c. re-attach the valve without connecting the connector
d. start the engine and the idle should be high
e. reconnect the connector and the idle should decrease to about normal RPM
1. Static test - measure each winding from the center pin to each outer pin,
ohms reading should be about 20 - 22 ohms for each winding.
2. Dynamic tests of valve & DME -
I. idle-up test
a. warm-up the engine
b. remove the valve
c. rotate the vane so that the valve is closed
d. re-attach the valve without connecting the connector
e. start the engine and the idle should be low
f. reconnect the connector and the idle should increase to about normal RPM
II. idle-down test
a. remove the valve
b. rotate the vane so that the valve is fully open
c. re-attach the valve without connecting the connector
d. start the engine and the idle should be high
e. reconnect the connector and the idle should decrease to about normal RPM
#35
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Hey Russ (rusnak) - I hope you read this. For some reason, I can't get a PM through to you. I will be sending your valve back later this week.
Thanks again for all your help.
John
Thanks again for all your help.
John
#40
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No, it didn't solve the problem. I have adjusted pretty much everything and she purrs like a kitten at 880 rpms .............for about 15 seconds. Then, the idle drops and stays down. I think I am just going to bump up the base idle to compensate and live with it for awhile.
When I get the time, I will turn it over to Franz Blam and let them take a look at it.
Thanks,
John
When I get the time, I will turn it over to Franz Blam and let them take a look at it.
Thanks,
John
#41
I haddah Google dat
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Can you borrow a fuel pressure gauge? It's very easy to check the fuel pressure from the fuel rail. Just don't overtighten the cap, or the ball can be a pain to remove (ask me how I know).
#42
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Thanks again Russ - I may give that a try. On another note, I decided to have a peak under the driver's seat last night to see how things looked. I reached under and to my surprise I found that the connector going into the DME relay was loose. In actuality, the connector wasn't loose - it was as if the whole bottom of the relay had come out. I could feel the back of a circuit board. Anyway, I pushed everything back together and gave it a light tug. It seemed to be holding. It was late and I was in my PJs, so I didn't do anymore than that. The weather is crap here, but I may get to give it a test run this weekend.
Thanks,
John
Thanks,
John
#43
I haddah Google dat
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Hey you know as long as it's apart....try taking the relay apart again. You'll see a low voltage coil winding, and the high voltage contacts. There should be two. Are they clean and in good shape? Can you see if it's working?
#44
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Well, I hate to resurrect the dead thread, but I decided to pull my DME relay and DME tonight just to have a look. Well, it seems that I may have a chip. My chip does not look stock. The chip has a tag on it that reads:
AutoThority Perf Eng.
POR 01 911 200 S/N 10056
C1995 CARB EO#D-228-1
That could explain a few things - like why no one seems to have my specific idle problem. Anyone know anything about this chip?
Thanks in advance,
John
AutoThority Perf Eng.
POR 01 911 200 S/N 10056
C1995 CARB EO#D-228-1
That could explain a few things - like why no one seems to have my specific idle problem. Anyone know anything about this chip?
Thanks in advance,
John
#45
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Autothority has been around a long time with an aftermarket chip. I've considered them "garden variety", but at one time, I think they offered several versions. Yours may be from 1995?