RL911

Anybody ever use this stuff? 1200 ppm zinc, 1100 ppm phosphorous, both are about 200 ppm lower than BP, but in line with Mobil 1. I know many on here use BP, including me, but this stuff looks pretty good. I used BP on my last oil change for the first time and noticed a bit more weeping so wanted to go back to conventional for my my 86 911 to see what happens.

It's $11 for 5 quarts at Walmart so cost difference with shipping is like $25 per oil change, not going to break the bank, but why spend it if you don't have to. Grade is 15w-40.

I run 5-7 track days/year, rest is street driving for a total of about 3k miles/year, which leaves me changing the oil once/year.

Please only answer if you've used it before or have evidence of why I should not be using it. I don't want to turn this into another thread extolling the virtues of BP or any other oil.

Thanks for sharing your view...

Daniel Dudley

Some of the 928 guys run it. Isn't that a 15W40 oil ?

I haven't run it though.

sig_a

Rotella 5w 40 fall/winter; Mobil 1 15w 50 spring/summer. Both are synthetic.

RL911

rotella T is 15w-40 and is not synthetic....don't want synthetic, just want to know if anyone has used it or if there is any concrete evidence why my air-cooled engine should not have it.

bgiere

Terrific oil, have run it in my 3.2 Targa with great results...The new CJ-4 HDEO's are very good oils, rivalling synthetics in many areas.

MUSSBERGER

Valvoline VR1 race oil. Three track days at PBOC Winterest Sebring and I didn't add a drop.

theiceman

I have actually used it quite a few times . the reasons I originally used it was because it had very high ZDDP and aparently was one of the last oils to go j class as it was primarily intended for diesel engines ... never had any negative efects to it at all. I run valvoline racing now but if i couldn't get that I would run the rotells again no problem .. I think they're all pretty good as long as you stick to frequent change intervals.

Houpty GT

I bought Rotella T Triple Protection for my car and then I found out that it was a new formula with lower ZDDP. I took it back to the store for a refund.

HarryD

The last time I checked the Shell Web site, the PDS did not include zn and P numbers. Where did you see this data?

Also, be very careful of places like Wal-Mart, with the market power they have, they have the vendors make the products to their specifications. Not always, but there are cases when the supplier cheapens the product to make a price point. The supplier may not make this subtle switch obvious. Check the Wal-Mart part numbers/bar codes on the bottle against the same product at your FLAPS.

As an alternative HDEO, how about Delo 400 LE. They proudly publish the Zn, P, and TBN numbers in their PDS Sheets. I ran is for two years in my car and would continue but with an older engine 20W-50 seems to be a better fit.

RL911

Can't remember where I saw it...there's some info here...

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shell_Rotella_T

and some here...

http://www.ctci.org/membership/Gilsg...EngineOil2.htm

Emmanuel

Diesel truck oil, works great in old US large V8 engines but leaves sludge in your motor.There are now better oils like Harley Davidson oil. Mobil 1 V-Twin 20W-50 Formulated for air cooled motors with lots of zinc! In my Cobra, I used racing Valvoline with good results. We once installed a new cam and it went flat on the dyno after a few minutes so I switched to the racing oil. This was a few years ago when oil manufacturers took all the zinc out of the oil. The claim was that it was harming catalytic converters. I also use it in my Frua which has a 550HP 427 FE stroked to 454 with solid lifters. You can't use modern oils in those engines. Only motors with roller cams should use the modern stuff.

ked

here's a nice wintertime read...
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsc...4-sm-oils.html

as to BP, iirc, it is 10% synth / 90% dino. I'm checking out the 15W-40 they've come out w/ recently in the 356... I'm also using it to top off the 20W-50 in the Carrera over the winter.