At the risk of drumming up a topic that may have been raised a million times here - I have done searches on this site and Pelican and am missing the targeted answers I am looking for. I need to do an oil change on the "new" 84 911 tomorrow and am wondering if any conclusion has been reached on this site relative to oil filter manufacturers, oil manufacturers and recommended oil grades for the midwest this time of year. Also if there are any secrets or tricks to changing oil in an 84 911 other than what is stated in the manual I would really, really like hearing about them. For example in my 308 the manual calls for 3 more qts of oil than the engine takes (a Euro translation issue no doubt).

Sorry for such basic questions but a guy has to start somewhere. Ultimately I want to get to the point where I am doing just about all maintenance on the 911 as I have been doing on "that other car" sitting next to her.

Thank you in advance for your input.

Cheers

 

Start by buying a Bentley ....

But as to your other points ..
Porsche OE filter or Mahle filter is the order of the day
oil ..usually a 15w40 or a 20w50 of your favorite depending where you are and your climate
Brad Penn semi synthetic , royal purple , Valvoline racing VR-1 seam to be popular but there are tonnes of others..

changing of the oil on the 911 is realy basic . I usually get it hot and drive the last few km to my house in a gear or 2 lower than normal .. this spikes the temp and makes sure the oil stat is open fully.

don't forget to open both drain plugs for the crankase AND the OIL TANK ..
have a BIG container that will hold at least 10 quarts.
time is your friend so let it all drain out on level ground while changing your filter.
put your plugs back with new gaskets and new filter ..
drop in about 7 quarts ... ( i pull my fuel relay until i see the oil pressure coming up while cranking )
throw the rest in the car .. go for a drive until warmed up thoroughly .. pour the rest of ths oil in until your dipstick is between min and max .

Remember you check the oil level on level ground with the engine runing and the car fully warmed up ...

Those are the major items but guys will chime in ..


Good luck ...

 

The newer Porsche oil filters from the dealer are just crap, total crap.

Stick to the Mahle filter. You'll know one from the other because the Mahle is much heavier, has a sturdier base, different pressure bypass valve, more oil flow holes, and probably more filter element.

Have a roll of paper towels ready when you do the oil change. You're about to be baptized.

 

Any experience with K&N oil filters?

 

Wow Russ that is surprising about the OE filter .. But the last one I bought from the dealer was about 5 years ago.
Yes i certainly remember my first "iceman Valdeez"

 

Oil changes are simple but be prepared. When you pull the plug out of the tank, the oil comes out VERY FAST!

Each plug has a aluminum crush washer, they are cheap. Get new ones. When you remove the filter, have something under the filter to catch the drips.

I would just use a Mahle filter. Well made and OEM.

As far as oil, be careful. The problem is that the newer oils may or may not have enough antiwear additive for our high performance flat tappet engines. Most of use 20W-50 or 15W-40 weight. The brands listed above all have enough of the good stuff as does Kendall GT.

If you have some time, this thread (http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsc...4-sm-oils.html) on the Pelican BBS has lots of information but can be overwhelming.

 

..and proper torque values when buttoning her back up,.....

We can't stress enough just how fast that LARGE volume of oil exits ...be very prepared .

Mine's a 89, so gets ~9 quarts on the first load in,..then she's driven for a good while to get the temps up to , at least, 180 degrees...I like to note that the oil lines to/from the front oil cooler are toasty,... flat ground,..check the stick (not the gauge) and add about 1 more quart (or whatever is necc to get it to just about mid level on the stick while she's idling on level ground). For my car, it's about 10 1/4 - 10 1/2 quarts on the changeout....again: that's my car's needs.

Just don't make the mistake of overfilling her,...and no need to overtighten that damned oil filter,..snug will do (careful not to crossthread...)...do coat that base of the new oil filter with a film of oil before install..

Best of luck,

Doyle

 

crush washers don't really crush and can be reused with no leak....mobil 1 15w 50 spring summer; shell rotella T6 5w 40 full synthetic in fall winter.....WIX oil filter 51283 for 84 911....Pentosin Racing brake fluid flush/bleed while you're "in there"....

 

In a pinch, the Purolator filters from your local store is a good choice. Purolator made some of the factories filters and are good quality off the shelf. K&N filters are hyped pretty good and claim good filtering capabilities, but are about the same quality as your Fram varients according to the "experts" found in a Google search. These same "experts" seem to like the Purolators, and the Wix above is supposed to be a pretty good filter although I usually go with the Mahle, Mann, Purolator units made in Germany. For the next oil service, you may want to order a few extras from Pelican/Zims/Stoddard online store of your choice. Better yet, give your local shop the business and it may help you establish a relationship with the idea you may need them in the future.

 

Thanks to all for the great feedback. Its incredible the amount of information/opinions out there regarding oil.

One other question or concern that come to mind is that I really don't know what oil is in the 911 now so based on this should I be considering certian type or blend this first change? One of the few old receipts says Catrol 15W40 so I guess I can make the assumption that is what is in it now.

Sorry for so many questions but I really want to do this right.

Thanks again for the input.

 

Oh yea. With the motor up to temp, you will drain the tank first and it comes out like a cow pissing on a flat rock. Dshepp806 nailed it on the head. 8-9 quarts to start, bring up to temp., add another quart and let it reach temp for a few minute(all with engine running), then top off by adding 1/4 quart increments until the level on the dipstick looks good. It is a bit of etiquette to fill the oil until the oil level needle is pointing horizontally at the pressure needle in the gauge(both are "flat" horizontal at operating temp in a perfect world). This may correspond directly with the dipstick, maybe a little less as long as the oil sender/gauge is working correctly. The reason being is that, at a glance, at idle and up to temp, you know everything is in order an you can "gauge" oil consumption betweef services.

 

Glad to help. No such thing as too many questions nor dumb ones. We have all been there.

As far as which oil for you, buy what makes you feel ok. Over the last few years I have used Valvoline 20W-50, Delo 15W-40 (got a great deal on the stuff) and my last change was with Brad Penn 20W-50.

Whatever you use will, in all likely event, be compatible with what is there.

 

German oil filters, only.

I used to keep a 50 gallon garbage bag here of ballooned, split open old Yankee filters I removed to show people what a bad idea that is. One will never know the folly of such practices until its too late,................

Mahle, Mann, are both well made and contain the proper bypass valves. The only American filter I've used with success are the Baldwin ones.

This is no place to cut corners for price or expediancy so Caveat Emptor on this.

 

I am sold on Valvoline race oil. Has plenty of ZDDP. Last week I didn't have to add a drop in three track days.

 

Yup. I'm still using the Valvoline ZR-1.