The driver's side door hinge pins on my '87 coupe are worn and the door sags when I open it. I would like to replace them and I recall hearing (or seeing something) that this is not a simple task.

Would someone please provide some advice?

Thanks in advance.

 

I did both doors on my SC. It takes some time and some tools. I got the bushings from the dealer I think. I got an 8 mm reamer to size the bushings. One pain is getting the mirrors off. You need a special pin remover tool (which I made).
Dean

 

Dean,

Thanks for the reply. Would you please let me know why the mirrors have to be removed. I was thinking of removing the hinges and then pressing the pins out.

Thanks,

 

Hello

The door must be removed to pull the bronce bushings.

The mirror is a simple thing but removing the wireloom for the motorized locks is a bit heavy .
One trick is to ppull as much from the cable in the door to gain more movable space and then male the bushings with the door beside the car ( and the wires still partially in the door.

Grüsse

 

Like Roland said the doors need to be removed to rebush. The mirror loom needs to be disconected and the only place to do that is in the connector at the mirror. If I where you I would drive the pins out with the hidge on the car. Then rebush the door on the bench. Much easier to do. Realignment is easier also. It helps to have a helper to reinsall the door.
Have fun
Dean

 

Gentlemen,

I appreciate the advise. I will try it this weekend.

Viele Dank
(Much thanks?)

 

Hello

To drive out the pins is the normal way to remove the door.
The screws on the hinge are only touched if you have to adjust the door.

The mirrorwireloom and the wireloom for the electric door lock use similar connectors but placed on different areas.
The mirrorconnector is inside the mirrorcase behind the mirror and has to be removed to pull the wireloom trough the base. Further removal is to pull it trough the door and leave it hanging on the car

The central lock system has the connector behind the dash in the outer corner area.

That wireloom stays in the door and gets pulled out from the car.

The wireloom for the speaker stys on the car.

the wireloom for the window lifter has a connector at the a pillar so you don´t have the pull that.

If you are there then check the wirelooms for cracks where thy got bend all the time.

Cooper gets "hard" and will break if you bend it often.

The tool to release the 2,3mm round pin connectors is very comon in use on other cars ( like VW/Audi, BMW ) and standard in every toolbox from a european car mechanic. Hazet sold a simple tool for 5$ but dis****inued that in favour to a complete set with 6 blades ( Timer contact releases and other round pin sizes ) for 40$.
Yet AFIK Herth & Buss still carrys a simple tool for under 5$. Problem is to find that but your local Nappa or Pep Boys maybe have a simple tool for the problem. Just remove the mirrordrive and take the unit with you to test out what they can offer. If you find something please feed back here so I can work that out full remotly from germany

If you release the pins allways write down witch wires are corresponding. On the mirrors the colores are not matching and missconnecting will give you hours of fun.

Do you know how to stripe the door panel ?

Grüsse

 

Guten Tag, Herr Kuntz.

Do I need to remove the door panels to access the mirror, central lock and speaker wire looms? If so, I have not done this before and would appreciate any tips or tricks information. I do have the Bently Service manual and have reviewed that several times, but the information on this is not very descriptive.

Again, thanks for your help.

 

Yes you do have to remove the door panel. I think that is the easiest part of the job.
Dean

 

Dean,

It seems on my 87 Carrera, the job is a lot easier. I took out the panels and the mirror (pretty tricky until the whole thing was warmed up with a hair dryer). I had a heck of a time finding a tool to press out the pins.

In the end, I found that there are connectors for the harnesses in the fender well and in the trunk. The only one under the dash is the speaker wires. In retrospect, I could have done it without taking any of the panels off. It was a learning experience.

You mentioned that you reamed the bushing out. After pressing the bushings in, what type of press fit did you use (sliding or light press?). I was thinking of using about a 0.0005" press. What do you think? Please let me know, I'll be back at it in the morning.

Thanks,

Adrian

 

I bought new pins because my old ones were worn. The pins are 8mm. I bought an 8mm hand ream. When I put the new bushings in I had to hand fit the thrust surfaces of the bushings and then I reamed them. They fit like a glove now.
Dean

 

Hello

Sorry my mistake 85 was the redesign from the main wireloom.

Said that you will find two round connectors in the upper corners from the trunkfloor. One is for electric lock and the other for the mirror.

I use simple screws to press in the bushings.

M8 will sometimes fit ( aftermarked bushings ) sometimes you need M6 with big washers ( OEM ). If you have a lathe you can turn down the M8 screw to 7,8 and it will fit. Then you have to ream the bushings with 8 H7.
Fill them with some Molycote grease and then back in with the door again.

Grüsse