sprbxr

I am in the process of building my 73 track car. This is a dedicated track car. I would like some recommendations on suspension setup, specifically sway bar size and manufacturer, torsion bar size, shocks, etc. I currently have aluminum trailing arms on the rear. It has fiberglass hood, front fenders, engine lid, doors and lexan windows. It has a 2.7 engine built to RS specs. Any mods should be PCA legal. Thanks.

Justin
80 930
73 911

Bill Gregory

Bruce Anderson does a good job of covering this in his book "Porsche 911 Performance Handbook". With the work you're doing, his book would be good to own.

sprbxr

I own the book. I was wondering if anyone on the list had any info to add to his information.

Justin

JackOlsen

If it's a track car, I'd go 22/31 Sander engineering torsion bars (with rear coil-overs, if you have a cage and can afford it), TRG or Smart Racing swaybars, front and rear. Replace all your bushings. Get the semi-adjustable springplates. Modify your upper front strut mounts for increased camber and caster adjustibility. Get either monoball mounts in front, or the Weltmeister strut brace as a substitute.

But if you're going for a PCA legal car, check with someone in your class who's done (and won with) the same basic tub. I'm not class-restricted, so I also had custom-offset 8x10x17 wheels made, which allows 245/275 tires under SC flares.

James Achard

Justin, My first suggestion would be to download the PCA Club Racing Rulebook. There you will find a wealth of information which should help you decide what class you would like to race in. I think it's one of the most legible rulebooks out there. Once you have decided which class you want to be in, come up with a plan of what you want to fix. For example, try to do things in a logical progression so you save some cash in the process( do suspension upgrades in one shot so you only have to align the car once). Remember too that if you start changing things like bumpers, wings etc. you will be shedding weight from the car and it will need to be corner balanced afterwards.
I would also reccomend that you spend your budget( haha) on getting more seat time since this is the best way to get the car going faster. 99.9% of doing well is getting the loose nut behind the wheel tight. Also, make sure that what ever you do to the car keeps it reliable. Never sacrifice reliability because that usually results in less seat time. Best of luck and I hope to see you out there.

Cheers, James

sprbxr

Thanks for the info. Keep it coming. My background in track cars comes from building BMW racecars. Since the last rear-engined aircooled BMW was made more than 30 years ago, I figured I could use any pointers I could get. This is my first experience with aircooled Porsches. Any recommendations on a good class to run with this car?

Justin
80 930
73 911