old car to convert to newer...
02-11-2002, 01:56 AM
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old car to convert to newer...
I'm looking at older porsche 911's to turn into a newer model I was wondering if anyone has built a turbo motor to put in a non turbo car and if it was a huge hastle or even worth doing. What kind of power can you get from a 3.6L upgrade that has head work? Also What years are best suited? I've heard that the 2.7L cars aren't the greatest but If I'm swaping out the engine does it matter?
Thanks,
Jeff
Thanks,
Jeff
02-11-2002, 09:14 PM
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Is this a bad topic? There is a porsche yard in phoenix and I was going to go buy a carcus and build a race car out of it and wanted the newer style panels. Nobody knows?
02-12-2002, 11:58 AM
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It's always cheaper to buy someone else's project than build your own. This is especially true with race cars. Porsches race cars are VERY expensive to build. Any money that you save on the front-end will be more than made up for by the expense of buying the proper parts to do the job correctly.
Now that the economy is headed south, people are shedding toys (like 911 racecars). See the classified section in the latest issue of Excellence for several nicely set-up 911 racecars that are being sold for far less than they would cost to replicate. You would be well advised to save up and buy a completed racecar, rather than buying a wreck and building it up yourself.
Now that the economy is headed south, people are shedding toys (like 911 racecars). See the classified section in the latest issue of Excellence for several nicely set-up 911 racecars that are being sold for far less than they would cost to replicate. You would be well advised to save up and buy a completed racecar, rather than buying a wreck and building it up yourself.
02-12-2002, 01:32 PM
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Jeff,
This subject has come up many times, J is right, it's much cheaper to buy than build unless you have the facilites, equipment and skill to build your own, including the motor.
If you decide to build you have to decide what type of race car and what class you intend to run it in, but here are a few basics:
The earlier tubs used 901 and 915 transmissions up until I believe 1987 when the G-50 was introduced with a hydraulic clutch. If you choose a G-50 trans you will have to make major mods to the earlier tubs to make it work. If you find a later tub 1987- and newer, the suspension changed from torsion bar to multi link with coil overs from I believe 1989 and up.(don't have my cheat sheet with me). If you build a real race car with a tub base you would replace all body panels,doors,trunk lid, and deck lid with carbon fiber/ or fiberglass after you strip it completely and weld in a nice cage with through the bulkhead bracing. So if you want an Historic type racecar the earlier tubs are great, but if you want a competitive car start with the latest tub you can afford to minimize the modification needed to run the later transmissions and suspension. As far as the 3.6 power output you can probably build a 3.6 up to 360hp, a good rule of thumb is 100hp per liter, and thats with spending a lot of money on race quality parts and modifications from a top level shop like Jerry Woods or Andial.
Have fun and good luck !
This subject has come up many times, J is right, it's much cheaper to buy than build unless you have the facilites, equipment and skill to build your own, including the motor.
If you decide to build you have to decide what type of race car and what class you intend to run it in, but here are a few basics:
The earlier tubs used 901 and 915 transmissions up until I believe 1987 when the G-50 was introduced with a hydraulic clutch. If you choose a G-50 trans you will have to make major mods to the earlier tubs to make it work. If you find a later tub 1987- and newer, the suspension changed from torsion bar to multi link with coil overs from I believe 1989 and up.(don't have my cheat sheet with me). If you build a real race car with a tub base you would replace all body panels,doors,trunk lid, and deck lid with carbon fiber/ or fiberglass after you strip it completely and weld in a nice cage with through the bulkhead bracing. So if you want an Historic type racecar the earlier tubs are great, but if you want a competitive car start with the latest tub you can afford to minimize the modification needed to run the later transmissions and suspension. As far as the 3.6 power output you can probably build a 3.6 up to 360hp, a good rule of thumb is 100hp per liter, and thats with spending a lot of money on race quality parts and modifications from a top level shop like Jerry Woods or Andial.
Have fun and good luck !
02-13-2002, 07:13 PM
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It is best to buy one that others have tried before. If your budget can't stand buying an already "done" car/project, then the solution has to be buying the early chassis, collecting the parts, doing as much as possible yourself, and finishing it down the road, long term. We've seen a lot of starry eyed individuals that never complete their projects, due to the ultimate "sticker shock" of what they truly cost to finish. Choose wisely, do your trial project accounting before you start, and good luck!
