You can try changing the switches around to make sure that it isn't a bad switch. If it were my car, I'd pull the pass side door panel off and see if there is electricity to the window motor. If not, then re-check your switch wiring and connections. You have to check the tightness of the pass side connection in both the driver's and passenger door.

 

A timely thread for me. Mine's an '88 coupe. About two weeks ago, I was going to take a medium length trip, and stopped for coffee in before leaving town. After coffee (no cupholder, so I drank it there), the car wouldn't start. Called my wife and got a jump--car started right up. Went to the mechanic, who checked it over and said everything seemed fine and the battery was probably just a bit low from non-use this rainy summer. He prescribed more long drives, which seemed reasonable. I drove about three hours and came home, and put the car on the trickle charger.

Last weekend I had a five hour drive to make on Saturday. I checked the tires and found a leaky valve, so before leaving I stopped at my tire guy and he fixed that. But the car wouldn't start, so he jumped me. I risked taking that car, and went on my way. When I went to start the car after dinner, it wouldn't start. Same thing Monday when I tried to leave, and I couldn't get it to start using my friend's Volvo, so I went to the hotel desk to call a service place, but there was a guy on the staff who's a mechanic. He came over, looked at the car and found a fuse I had missed, in line to the negative battery terminal and not in the fuse box. This was a 7.5A fuse. He didn't have one of these, but he did have a 10A, so we put that in and the car started right up. He insisted that the 7-11 would have automotive fuses, and that I should stop there to get a replacement 7.5A. Turned out they didn't have fuses, and that, like an idiot, I had cut the ignition. And again, no cranking when I tried to start. I fiddled with the fuse I had, which wasn't blown, then started messing with the car. I'd get in and turn the ignition to on (not start), and sometimes the normal things would happen (idiot lights on, buzzing because the key was in), but sometimes nothing would happen--no idiot lights, no buzzing, nothing. And I tried the windows, and sometimes they worked, sometimes not, although they normally work whether or not the ignition is on.

I guess I was suspecting the DME relay, just because people always seem to suspect the DME relay when there's a starting problem, but this really doesn't sound like that. Any other thoughts, or should I just first try contact cleaner in the ignition switch? And to do that, do I just stick the tube from the contact cleaner can into the ignition where the key goes?

 

Alpine, it sounds like your ignition switch is bad, since you say that sometimes nothing works. Another symptom is that when you cut the ignition, sometimes it may continue to run. This is a dangerous condition, because the car may also suddenly cut while you are driving. Or you may lose lights, etc.

Back to the window switches...over the long weekend, I fixed a few of my old 911 style window switches. The new one from Porsche is a 993 switch, which does not look right nor does it fit correctly in the door panel. The old switches always break at the pivot. The fix was to use a centerpunch, then drill out a small hole on the axis of the switch rotation. A small brass nail is inserted, and the switch works as good as new.

 

If you're intimidated by that sort of stuff GET OVER IT! You have a car with an electrical system that is now over 20 years old and demands attention. A combination of things start to affect the electrical systems on these cars, e.g., corrosion of grounds, metal fatigue in the wires themselves, fatigue in the fuse holders, drying out of the insulation, failure of components (age). You're smart to come here for guidance,--most have seen these issues before and are more than willing to help.

Make a point of spending some time on a section of the electrical system at a time. Clean up your various ground points thoroughly, and consider replacing relays and even the entire fuse holder assembly if you can find a new one. It will save you grief in the future.

There is no need to be intimidated by this stuff. The minimum essential tools for that sort of troubleshooting is a decent quality digital multimeter, and a few leads and gator clips. Learn how to accomplish continuity checks on circuits, and on components (e.g., relays). If you can do that basic stuff, you're home free. Good luck!

 

Thank you, Rusnak. I'll start by injecting some contact cleaner, but would you please confirm that it goes into the keyhole?

I haven't had the engine cutout problem--all three times I've had this starting problem and have driven for extended periods, the car has run just fine. But I suppose it could be a bad switch anyway.

Nor have I had the problem of cutting the ignition and having the engine continue to run.

 

I guess some electronic parts cleaner couldn't hurt. I would be careful with what you spray in there.

Mitch Leland once advised to place a rag under the switch because a lot of dirt and crud can drip out.

 

The spring feeling in the ignition comes from the electrical switch described above, not the tumbler. When you replace it the slop goes away. When you first start the car, if the switch does not rebound back all the way you will loose all the things you described. With your hand after the car has started just turn the key back counterclockwise just a touch. If everything starts to work you have your diagnoses. Glenn