kenshi

The idle fluctuates between 1200 and 700 and occassionally attempts to stall when i put it in gear and attempt to drive off *immediately* after starting up cold. Throttle response also seem rather sluggish the first minute.

This seems to only happens when i start cold and go in reverse before going forward without letting it idle for a minute or so.

However, the car seems to work fine after letting it idle for 1 min or so to warm up. But the manual recommends driving it immediately (below 4k rpm) after starting to warm it up.

Do i have a bad DME, O2 sensor or something else? The car runs like a charm after the first minute or so.

RANDY P

Funny,

Mine's CIS and started doing the exact same thing when it got cold up here. I don't let it idle to warm up, drive right away and coax it to 3K for a few sec's as I leave the 'hood. By the end of the block, the hunting goes away. Didn't do it all summer though. It's better to drive lightly to minimize warmup times, better for the car. Anyone else?

rjp

JamesR

This is my second winter with my Turbo look 88 Coupe here in NE Georgia. After start up, I hear
some odd noises coming from the rear. Sounds like
a belt, not to worry. Do you keep the clutch pedal
depressed after start up before you pull away? I
believe my manual recommends it. Of course the shifter would be in the neutral position. My tach
stays at about 1200 an begins to descend fairly
quickly. I also wait about one minute before drive off. I wouldn't worry about it. Just keep
the revs low until everthing warms up!

M Fig

I have also heard that it is best to start and go...not wait for engine to heat up first. I just posted a question about it on the PP BB. It seems that nuetral is harder on engine than driving it and keeping it blow 3500 RPM's.

Derrick B.

Hi Kenshi, I have the exact same problem as you. I thought it might have been an air leak at the intake manifold gaskets, but spraying with starter spray produced no change. I don't think it is a DME issue, as I have a fairly recent Weltmiester chip. I've also run with the O2 sensor disconnected, but unfortunately didn't check to see how the car started when cold. Like you, I've been living with it. Good luck, and let us know if you fix it. I've heard "they all do that," about this problem, so I suspect there are plenty of people out there with similar symptoms.

Derrick B.
85 Carrera

kenshi

Good to hear that there is nothing wrong. I do not depress the clutch to start the car, should i?

thanks
alf

D

The idle on these cars is a complex combination of switches and temperature sensors. The most common cause I have read about is a malfunctioning auxilary air valve which at idle and with a cold engine is supposed to control the air flow (richening the mixture -akin to a choke). There is also a micro switch at the throttle when it is in the rest position (foot off the gas) which is supposed to let the computer under the drivers seat know that the fuel pumps need to be activated, they are supposed to come on if the idle drops below 1080. My car idles very low and bounces around a bit when it is cold put after 10minutes of driving it idles steadily around 900