Question
#1
Burning Brakes
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Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Encinitas Ca.
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Returning from my 70 mile run yesterday I noticed a terrible squeeking from the right front every time I would hit a dip. So when I got home I pushed up and down on the right front......squeek to beat the band.
Sounded like a newly wed bed.
This morning I go into the garage and push up and down, nothing. No noise.
Subject car:
'86 911 Coupe
Old Bilstein sports
Ride is still nice and firm and corners great. Car is stock.
Could the strut/s get a squeek when warm from driving? Seems odd it goes away when cooled.
Mike
Sounded like a newly wed bed.
This morning I go into the garage and push up and down, nothing. No noise.
Subject car:
'86 911 Coupe
Old Bilstein sports
Ride is still nice and firm and corners great. Car is stock.
Could the strut/s get a squeek when warm from driving? Seems odd it goes away when cooled.
Mike
#2
Rennlist Member
Sounds like the rubber bushings on the "A" arm(s) around the torsion bars. It happened to me and the fix was to put new bushings in there. Of course, you may have to do it at all four corners and then have a 4 wheel alignment done. Depends on how much noise you can live with.
#3
Rennlist Member
Or, another possibility is the front sway bar bushings. It won't hurt anything if you spray aerosol silicon spray into the bushings, especially the outboard ones, and it just might quiet them down. Your only risk is that once you use spray, you have to keep using it, usually once every few months does the trick.
To replace the bushings you need to drop the rear of one of the front control arms. If you do a great job of marking the bolt you can usually get the arm back on without needing an immediate alignment.
To replace the bushings you need to drop the rear of one of the front control arms. If you do a great job of marking the bolt you can usually get the arm back on without needing an immediate alignment.
#4
Burning Brakes
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Why must everything be so challenging.........I will spray. If that is not it then start replacing rubber bits. I reckon after 23 years something bound to squeek and rot. When I removed the bolts from the sway bar to remove the pan to get to the fuel pump, I thought I would never get those bolts back in. Something had shifted........Arrrrgggg. I must admit I do like working on these cars, in my limited capacity.
Thanks Ron, Mr. Z
Thanks Ron, Mr. Z
#5
I haddah Google dat
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Rennlist Member
Yup, I would agree with both Ron and Pete. I used an aerosol version of "Tri Flow", which I bought at the local hardware store. You can get it at industrial supply houses like Grainger also. The liquid version is much, much better and has less tendency to build up, but the aerosol version penetrates better. I used this stuff to determine that my A-arm bushings needed to be replaced. It's a good weekend project if you go ahead with it. I'd recommend replacing the A arm bushings and sway bar bushings at the same time. This may also be a good time to inspect the balljoints for play, as well as the strut bearings, which the strut housing slides on. You can take the struts housings off the strut tubes, and clean and grease them if you have Bilstein struts, it is just a matter of tapping out the rollpin.