FRQTFLR

Hello all,

Thanks to the list and articles from Pelican parts I changed out my stock shift lever for the factory short shift kit along with the recommended bushings. All went well until I went to reinstall the shift ****. I made the mistake of whacking it with a rubber mallet, a small one I might add, and cracked the top portion. A few days and a few dollars later and I now have a new shift ****. So that I don’t repeat the mistake, does anyone have a trick for reinstalling the ****?

I also acquired the front spoiler and hardware kit from Performance parts. I will be installing it on my ‘83 SC which hasn’t had one prior so there aren’t any holes in the front valance to mount it. So I guess I will be drilling...eeekkk...holes to mount the kit. Has anyone done this install and have any recommendations?

Thanks for the lists input,
Bob Elmer
Elmairis@aol.com
RL#020204-3363
‘83 911SC

Thom Fitzpatrick

[quote]Originally posted by FRQTFLR:
<strong>Thanks to the list and articles from Pelican parts I changed out my stock shift lever for the factory short shift kit along with the recommended bushings. All went well until I went to reinstall the shift ****. I made the mistake of whacking it with a rubber mallet, a small one I might add, and cracked the top portion. A few days and a few dollars later and I now have a new shift ****. So that I don’t repeat the mistake, does anyone have a trick for reinstalling the ****?
</strong><hr></blockquote>

Wow! I did the *exact* same thing last week! I have no idea how to install it without breaking it; I did it once before with no problems, but this time it broke. Go figger.

FRQTFLR

Don't tell me you are driving around "knobless"?!

Thom Fitzpatrick

Yes, I am... <img src="graemlins/c.gif" border="0" alt="[ouch]" />

[quote]Originally posted by FRQTFLR:
<strong>Don't tell me you are driving around "knobless"?!</strong><hr></blockquote>

Sean Hamilton

Bone up on the bright side Thom, you wont get calluses now. <img src="graemlins/nono.gif" border="0" alt="[nono]" />

Carrera Steve

Hi Bob:
Not sure on the SC, but on my Carrera, there was a aluminum crush sleeve that was placed over the shift lever that created a friction fit between the **** and shifter. I simply twisted the **** around until it became seated. Just keep turning, and the thing sort of screws down into the lever. One important note: with the factory short shifter kit, a factory shift **** will not install flush with the shifter arm. There will be about a 1/4" gap between the flaired lip near the top of the arm. Quite unsightly! This is where I think a few have resorted to brute force leading to disaster... No physical room for the **** to move. I believe the common fix is to grind down about a 1/2" of the top of the shifter arm. This allows the new **** some room to completly seat itself onto the flaired lip at the top of the arm. I decided to put two small 1/4" rubber grommets there to fill the gap. Surprisingly, it looks very "factory sport" like, resembling the main rubber dust boot below.
Hope this helps.

Steve

MM83targa

Chin Spoiler install - BTDT about 3 months ago. My 83 was stock - so I drilled the holes for mounting on the valance as well. I made a cardboard template of the mating surface on the ends. This allowed me to mark where the holes for the molded-in bolts were needed. I made certain that both ends were the same distance below the valance/quarter panel joint - believe it was around an inch, maybe a little less. Before drilling, I did a test fit by clamping the ends up to make sure the lower front fit well. I jacked the front end up and had to remove the AC condensor screen protection bar to drill the remaing holes and mount the hardware. Good luck!

This topic has been covered before - I'd also recommend doing a search.

FRQTFLR

Thank you Steve for your suggestion about the shift ****, it worked. I simply twisted the **** down onto the lever although it gets VERY tight as it moves down and today my hands are killing me from grabbing and twisting. I ended up cutting about 3/8" off the top with a cutoff wheel in order for the **** to sit up against the extra sleeve.

Martin S.

I am certain you know that it is unwise to install a chin spoiler without a whale tail. In high speed situations, you will have reduce lift at the front of the car, while at the same time the rear is lighter, has more lift. As a result, you could see some oversteer. This is where the back of the car tries to become the front of the car. You also should not add a whale tail without a chin spoiler, same logic. The front would have more lift than the rear, in effect it becomes lighter at speed, Understeer results...the car doesn't want to turn in. I hope this helps.

Martin


Read the section on aerodynamics, Wings and Things, in Paul Frere's Book, The 911 Story. He explains the above in great detail.

FRQTFLR

I have read about the unbalance of the car due to the lack of front or rear spoiler with its counter part installed. When I bought the car it only had the rear tail so I am installing the front to get the car into the "proper" configuration.

I have noticed that the car "hunts" around a bit at freeway speeds, 70-80 mph. It became more noticeable after I installed turbo tie rods and had the front end aligned. I am guessing that it is due to the ruts in the road more than the lack of the chin spoiler, but will report any change in drivability.
<img src="graemlins/burnout.gif" border="0" alt="[burnout]" />

Sean Hamilton

Martin, I was informed ( reliably I would expect) that the front chin spoiler fitted without the rear wail tail IS okay.
Cheers,
Sean.
1980 Hellblaumetallic SC Targa.

Sean Hamilton

By the way Martin, what is a "A Star Ratings Declined Member" as you've signed of as?
Cheers,
Sean.
1980 Hellblaumetallic SC Targa.