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Rob, Also pop your cap off the distributor again and make sure the top of the rotor does not appear to be melting. Similar to the tach adaptor situation, some cars seem to require the "MSD rotor mod" which basically involves grinding black epoxy off the top of the rotor, and bypassing the factory resistor, which I believe is only there to cut down radio interfearance?? If this is acting up you may see signs of the rotor appearing hot, but you may also have to check the resistance from the center "button" of the rotor, to the tip of the rotor arm. This problem can present itself like a Rev limiter as well. There is some information on this subject floating around on Pelican if you search. My car did not require rotor modification. Keep us posted

RSWiser

Looked at Rotor (new) looks good.

Definately the MSD Rev Limiter. It must come with a built in 3000. When I hit exactly 3500 in all gears and neutral it cuts out and then comes back as it drops below. Summit is sending the rev limiters that should have been in my box but were not.

When I return from the Sunbeam International Rally in Rapid City South Dakota in a week I will put the new 6000RPM limiter in and see what we get then.

Before the MSD the car was running strong but would not pass emissions no matter what I did. So I read that it was recommeded to do the MSD. We will see.

The good thing is that the installation does not require cutting any of the original wiring harness so I can put the MSD and plug in the CD at anytime.

Later,
Rob

theiceman

Sounds like your on you way ...

RSWiser

Okay got the Rev Limit Chips.

Put the 6000 in and reved it up to about 5500 several times. Didn't drive last night to rainy.

Got in this morning to go to my shop to work. Started out taking it very easy (cold) and after it was warming up I started to run the RPMs up a bit.

Yep I hit 3500 and spit and sputter again. Last night when I reved it up in neutral to 5500 no problems. Today, 1st, 2nd, and 3rd all spit and sputter at about 3500 rpm.

Then I turned around and was heading home, came around a sharp turn and spit and sputtered and stalled. Started right back up but you could not give it any gas, it just spits and sputters. Ended up calling AAA and towing to the mechanic.

I don't think it is the ignition.

Could it be the fuel filter or pump? I have about a little more than a 1/3 tank of gas. Not old gas, only 2 weeks.

Give me a list of things for the mechanic to check out.

Thanks for your help.

Rob
1980 911 SC
121,500 Miles.

theiceman

Well Rob sounds like fuel now for sure as I had suspected a few posts ago. With all due respect if you need us to tell what your mechanic to check you need a new mechanic.
Fuel filter is of course theeasy ones ,, but back to ignition you are sure you are using the correct plug right ? if you are you should check to see if they are fouling or anything.

You can swap a lot of parts trying to get this going or you could take it to a competent mech with CIS fuel pressure guages and let him have at it.

RSWiser

When I explained the problem to the mechanic he said fuel and he is supposed to be the best independent porsche mechanic around. So we will see what he comes up with on Monday.

Thanks,
Rob

blake

Who is your mechanic in Utah?

I found really good "independets" in SF Bay, MD and CT - but have yet to find one I really like in UT. Luckily the 964 is a tank, and I take the GT3 to Vegas...

Good luck with all of this. Sounds like a fun project.

-B

RSWiser

There are two that I am told are good here in Utah Valley.

Autobahn in Orem and Independent Service in Provo.

Currently it is sitting at Autobahn. They just moved today to the new Orem location so Monday they will look at it.

Rob

blake

Thansk Rob. I have heard of both, but have no personal experience with either. I can speak to the Salt Lake Valley guys though!

Best of luck, and hope to see you out at the track (MMP) someday!

-B

RSWiser

If I get it running good I would like to go to the Miller track and try it out. I think there is a PCA track day coming up.
Rob

RSWiser

Today I went and purchased one of the recommended Niehoff rotors and put it on. Made sure the rotor was snapped all the way down.

Car runs, no spitting or sputtering.
In neutral Rev good all the way up to 6000.

In gear is faulters and wont go higher than 3500. It will go high but begrudgingly.

Whats up?
Rob

theiceman

Rob i thought you were taking it to the mech , what happened ?

RSWiser

It is at the mechanics now. He should get to it tomorrow.
Rob

Lorenfb

"In an effort to get my car to pass the emissions test (hydrocarbons at idle) I decided to install the MSD Ignition sytem."

The use of a MSD system over the stock Bosch CDI is really a waste of time
and money as exemplified in this thread. There're no established data to
indicate ANY real benefit of that ignition system. The only verifiable outcome
is stressed and/or damaged parts of the ignition system, e.g. rotors, caps,
wire connectors, and wires. Furthermore, given the complexity of the MSD,
it's reliability in the long run is less than that of the Bosch unit.

Bottom line: Emission problems can and should be solved using the original
Bosch CDI without wasting money and time on baseless product claims.

RSWiser

Loren,
Thanks for your opinion.

I had my car to two different shops, one an owner of a porsche and the other a porsche specialty shop. Neither was able to get my car to pass emissons at idle.

I read in the 101 Projects book about the MSD and thought I would give it a try.

I have not cut any wires and can always go back to the stock unit if it does not work. But then if I can't pass emissions I won't be able to drive it.

Rob