Steely

In the style of attempting some payback for all of the help I help received from the fine folks here and other places, I wanted to outline some of the minor maintenance I did on my new car. Maybe it’ll help someone somehow. I know I got more than I’ve given. My thanks to everyone who helped me.

(a month ago)Well I finally completed my winter project of replacing the fuel lines in my ’87. It was quite the experience, and I have to say I couldn’t have done it without the help of folks from here and Pelican. When I got the car last year, the lines were the first thing on my list of things to do, and when I started I quickly found/added normally maintained things that had been neglected to the WIIT list, (standard stuff) such as:

Oil Press Switch
Oil Thermostat O-ring
Intake runner gaskets
CC Breather gasket
SS braided fuel lines with AN / Metric fittings
New Plugs, rotor, distributor cap, ignition lines
Speed/flywheel sensors
Replaced “pipeline” and other various vacuum lines
Electroless nickel plated the fan (non-purist bling 1)
Powder coated the fan housing gloss black (bling 2)
Cleaned the throttle body, AFM, runners, Air Box.
General engine compartment cleaning
Replaced throttle plate springs
Shifter bushings
Reset (or more accurately, Set) the throttle idle position so the switch activates, and
Rear Bilstiens


Things I’d do differently?
I should have tackled the injectors, but I’ll refurb/replace them later.
I was not proficient in making lines – it took a little practice, and although I saved big money by not buying OEM, I spent a little more than I wanted to on fittings. I probably should have opted for a set from Amazon. Don’t plate/paint machined (keyed/threaded) surfaces. I also tracked a little anti-seize in on the livingroom rug – big mistake if you’re married, so add the cost of a professional carpet cleaner visit ($135 US) (economy stimulus?). And check your shoes at the door.

I found out later that I should have gotten the 'green' tstat oring - it is supposedly better. and if you're wondering, i wound up buying this stuff over the course of a few months. Lastly, the flywheel sensors were for a BMW, but cost half that of the Porsche and work the same.

While I had things out, took the alternator to an established place in Phila, Steve at Pryor Auto Electric (I’ve been there before for other cars). Steve told me after testing my Alt that the PO must have already had the unit refurbed since the brushes were like new, and he saw no need to change out the bearing after testing it and the regulator. I give the guy credit for his honesty.

Moment of truth was when I tried to prime (not really necessary) and test the fuel lines for leaks (couple weeks ago) – while trying to start the car. I had no joy as I tried to troubleshoot, looking for a spark first from the cyl #1, then from the coil, and then I thought the coil or brain went. Thinking it more likely that I crossed the flywheel sensors, I swapped them and my wife was able to start it right up (not sure if I gained points or dodged a hefty deduction). It felt phenomenal. Like it started-right-up (grin). I shut down and re-started, testing, smelling for leaks – there were none – so I took her for a quick local test run and she ran great (the car). (update: after a month, the difference is noticeable!)

The car never idled properly prior to this, with all due respect to the PO and his wrench – but I did find and correct an issue with the idle switch – big smile as it idles now!!! I was also surprised realizing how well the car ran after seeing the condition of the original (and I do think I mean original) rotor/ignition lines and dizzy – major cracks, carbon, terminal damage. All in all, I think I gained a few hp and a lot of peace of mind. Anyway, thanks to this site, and all of you for the incredible wealth of input and encouragement.

Steely

Sites I got a lot of inspiration from for the fuel line (Thanks 911Vet/Ian/jbrinkley):
http://members.rennlist.com/imcarthur/fuel-lines.htm
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/showt...hreadid=238230

Parts:

http://www.amstreetrod.com/CatalogIndex.php4
http://amstreetrod.com/HoseEnds.php4

-6 AN stainless tee fitting, qty 1, American Street Rod Performance Products 962406
8 ft PerformOflex fuel line, Am. Street Rod, 400060
Straight swivel seal -6 AN connectors, qty 3, Am. Street Rod, 800106

http://www.batinc.net/porsche.htm
http://64.202.180.37/files/ahosend.pdf

30 degree AN-6 Hose end fitting BATinc.net F30-6 (used 1)
45 degree AN-6 Hose end fitting BATinc.net F45-7 (used 1)
90 degree AN-6 Hose end fitting BATinc.net F90-1606 (qty 1)
Adapter 16mm to AN stainless BATinc.net AF16AN6S (bought 5, used 2)
16mm str to -6AN BATinc.net FS-1606 (qty2)

Please note that as I assembled things, I did make a few local changes like ditching a 150 degree fitting for a 90 at the filter, and ditching some adapters for metrics (purchased separately later) from BAT. This saved me some clearance issues I had during a dry fit – the fitting and adapters would bump into t he runner, so I sprang for metric, and wound up with some extra fittings left over ($). I also found I had at least a foot of tubing left over. I did not do the drain from the FPR to the tank line, so I may do that later.

Pelican:
Item Name Item Price Quantity Item Total
--------- ---------- -------- ----------
12-14-1-708-619-M14 $71.25 2 $142.50
Flywheel Position Sensor, 2 Needed Per Car, M3 (1987-91)

B46-0169-M12 $111.75 2 $223.50
Rear Bilstein Shock for 911, 911 Turbo, 1972-89

999-192-254-50-M21 $10.50 1 $10.50
A/C Belt, 911 1984-89, 13.0x1155 Brand: Contitech

PEL-7075BS $4.90 10 $49.00
Aftermarket Alloy Lug Nut, Black, each

999-924-069-00-OEM $4.50 2 $9.00
Accelerator Rod Bushing, 2 req, 911 1984-89 Brand: Genuine Porsche
Note: didn’t really use

911-110-165-08-OEM $8.50 2 $17.00
Throttle Return Spring, 2 per car, 911 1984-89

999-707-314-40-M17 $2.00 1 $2.00
Engine Thermostat O-Ring, 911/911 Turbo 1965-89, Oil Pressure Sender
O-Ring, 911 1990-98

4016-M14 $3.00 6 $18.00
Bosch Spark Plug Platinum core and yttrium added WR-7-DP+ 4016, 911
Carrera 1984-89, 912E 1976, Each Brand: Bosch

911-606-230-00-M85 $6.50 1 $6.50
Oil Pressure Switch, 911 & Turbo 1969-89, Each Brand: Facet

930-107-791-02-M17 $4.25 1 $4.25
Crankcase Breather Cover Gasket, 911/911 Turbo 1974-89 Brand: Victor Reinz

JWST-G50-BUSH $21.00 1 $21.00
G50 Shifter Bushing Kit, JWest Engineering, 911 1987-89, 911 Turbo
1989 Brand: JWest Engineering
Note: O-ring size issue

930-602-902-01-M14 $10.50 1 $10.50
Ignition Rotor, 911 Carrera 1984-89 Brand: Bosch

930-602-919-00-M14 $48.75 1 $48.75
Distributor Cap, 911 Carrera 1984-89 Brand: Bosch

930-110-393-00-M67 $9.00 1 $9.00
Air filter, 911 Carrera 1984-89 Brand: Mahle Filter

999-192-176-50-M21 $5.50 1 $5.50
Alternator or Air Pump Belt, 10 x 710 Service-Free belt, 911 1974-75,
911 1980-89, 911 Turbo 1976-79, 911 Turbo 1986-89 Brand: Contitech

911-618-154-00-M252 $30.50 1 $30.50
DME Relay located under driver seat, 911 Carrera 1984-89 Brand: Kaehler

930-110-573-01-M136 $11.75 1 $11.75
Intake Manifold Rubber Sleeve, 911 Carrera 1984-89 Brand: OEM

930-110-459-00-M260 $8.00 6 $48.00
Insulator, 911 Carrera 1984-89 Brand: OEM

930-110-197-14-M17 $1.75 12 $21.00
Intake Manifold Gasket each, 12 required, 911 Carrera 1984-89 Brand: Victor Reinz

And Magnecors (from Apex….)
Item# Qty Product Description Price Total
60108-A 1989-1985 911 Carrera (3.2 engine) 8.0mm, Blue Wires 1 $131.06

Steely

Hey, I hope this helps somebody. Please let me know if you have any questions about the process. At least I might be able to share something or point you in the right direction - granted this is all routine for more experienced folks.
Before

During

After

on edit: I do have to re-dress my ignition lines and replace the blower. This was done at this point for testing purposes. Add trust me, it's a lot cleaner on the shroud.

jwilson95

nice job.

big fan of venetian blue also.

ditch68

Very nice job. I am due for a major engine bay spruce up. I'm inspired!

Thanks for the great post.

Jeff

Talewinds

WOW! Nice thread. Thanks for keeping and providing data on all the part #'s.
Are you doing a heater backdate??? If so, and it would be worthwhile, that engine blower is completely unnecessary and covers up an otherwise stellar engine bay, contact me first, I just completed mine...

Amber Gramps

Very nice color on a 3.2

rusnak

Nice job, and congratulations on the improved idle!

You might want to PM Ian to get his opinion on installing a rubber sleeve or some vacuum line over your ss fuel lines. This could be a safety against chafing/ rubbing.

That fuel filter looks different than mine. I wonder if Mahle changed their fuel filter?

Thanks also for the parts #s. I'm sure you'll help someone. Very thoughtful and classy of you!

Amber Gramps

Steely, What did your intake runners and valves look like when you took it all apart. Mine was a black sludge that confirmed to me that I did have major vacuum leaks.

Helios59

This is totally off-topic and random, but I need to know...

...were there ever stickers that went in the two far left spaces in the engine bay? I've never seen them filled.

Anyway, thanks for sharing your success. Your engine looks good enough to eat off of!

Steely

Jeff (jw), Jeff (ditch), Talewinds - thanks guys, and, no I hadn't considered a heater backdate yet - althoough I seem to always be in between a state of planning and doing - so I might eventually try that. For example, I am on the fence about removing the AC - but I will take you r advice.

Steely

Rusnak - thanks man - yeah I think fixing the idle was beginners luck, as the PO explained to me some of the things they had done trying to fix it (O2 sensor, some sort of compensator replacement, etc). It wasn't until I removed the throttle body that I found the micro switch was never being closed until I cleaned it adjusted the screw for the positioner.

And I simply provided the part nums cause someone once asked me before - and Doug Bray lead by example - it was a big help. tnx


Helios - sorry, I can't answer the sticker question - can anybody else?

Steely

Doug, first - your threads have always been appreciated.
To answer your question, the runners were really black and tarry, more-so for some of the port than others - I wish I remember which. I threw paper into a cardboard box, took the mess outside, and used old t-shirts and brake cleaner - using caution so as not to blow up or gas myself - to clean the insides. Any spillover went into the box with the paper. I tried doing this in the garage during the winter, but working on fuel lines and using brake cleaner in a cold garage w/o heater was not my style, and I was afraid to use a room heater or bring the stuff in the basement, so I only did some of this on days when I could stand the temperature and open the door.

At that point I photographed and tried to clean the valve-ports . I had much more luck than I recall you did with cleaning the gasket interfaces. I used a straight razor in a wallpaper remover type tool.
All this dirt inspired me to move onto the air box and throttle body to clean them.

Oh, and I plagiarized your entire parts list from what I think was your vacation thread. - youdaman.
here are some pics - runner, eng deck, intake valve #5(?) - sorry, no after shots

bodmin

Hi - where is this micro switch and what does it look like? Do you have a picture by any chance?

Steely

Hi bodmin,

The switch is actually called the idle position switch and is on the driver side and forward of the throttle body. I don't have a real good picture of it, but here is one of the TB and intake runners removed from my car, with an arrow to t he micro switch. The red dot is the actual switch button, and it's made/contacted by the some throttle linkage. If you have the Bentley Service manual, it's on pg 240-21.

Congrats on the new car by the way! post a pic sometime.