Help with rough idle problems
#1
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#2
I haddah Google dat
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ooh I love these, but have no sound right now. I'll check back when I get home.
I thought of my first question already. Have you pulled the spark plugs? What do they look like? Have you got any fuel pressure or air fuel ratio test results?
I thought of my first question already. Have you pulled the spark plugs? What do they look like? Have you got any fuel pressure or air fuel ratio test results?
#3
I haddah Google dat
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oh boy, that's not a rough idle. That's more like the car won't idle at all. Is it dying on it's own? It sounds like a huge exhaust leak or maybe half of the head studs are pulled out.
Has it had recent engine work? Have you checked for loose or missing intake manifold bolts? Missing intake gaskets?
Has it had recent engine work? Have you checked for loose or missing intake manifold bolts? Missing intake gaskets?
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That is really bad. What have you checked so far? After listening to it, the things that spring to mind are all electrical - distributor (cracked cap/damaged rotor/loose plugs), bad crank position sensor, coil is shot.
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well haow about teling us what is going on instaed of just posting pics and expecting us to helpt you . ![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
did you just wake up and it was ike this ? did you buy it like this ? after storage ? any work done ? any other symptoms ? did it do it during driving ?
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did you just wake up and it was ike this ? did you buy it like this ? after storage ? any work done ? any other symptoms ? did it do it during driving ?
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i wouldn't be running that engine anymore until i got a handle on it .
wires plugged in correctly ? head studds , mechanical timing, massive leak, I don't think it is fuel as it is managing to run , although only on about 2 cylinders.
wires plugged in correctly ? head studds , mechanical timing, massive leak, I don't think it is fuel as it is managing to run , although only on about 2 cylinders.
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Nothing related the the engine. Wheel bearings and axles swap. Also pulled and replaced the heater hose that goes to that heater back date duct. That's it. It sat for about 3 weeks while I was doing this.
-Scott
-Scott
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this note may not relate, but.
I notice you have the Autothority hotwire MAF and K&N. so do I. my idle has been a little rough for some time, but NOT like yours. once off idle it seems to run fine all the way to WOT/redline.
when having a porsche master mechanic do my DE tech inspeiction I had him check my F/A mixture.
he could not get it to run smother at idle and after some checking he fould my MAF not reading correctly. his suspicion, due to encountering issues with other similar setups, is my hotwire has probably gotten some K&N oil on it. I probably put a little too much oil last time I cleaned, did not think of the possibility of the K&N oil contaminating the hotwire. I have heard the new clean/oil kits have a spray bottle rather than try to drip oil onto the cleaned filter.
I am in the process of reinstalling my old MAF, and installing my K&N with a cast elbo made by one of the local PCA members. he used to sell them through some distributor a few years ago that is no longer in business. his setup when dynoed increased power measurably over stock housing/filter. he has since focused on making custom high end full containment seats for La Joie. when I get it I'll post a few pics, but Ric is concerned people will want to get one and he just does not have the time to make them anymore. only has a couple left.
good luck on you problem
I notice you have the Autothority hotwire MAF and K&N. so do I. my idle has been a little rough for some time, but NOT like yours. once off idle it seems to run fine all the way to WOT/redline.
when having a porsche master mechanic do my DE tech inspeiction I had him check my F/A mixture.
he could not get it to run smother at idle and after some checking he fould my MAF not reading correctly. his suspicion, due to encountering issues with other similar setups, is my hotwire has probably gotten some K&N oil on it. I probably put a little too much oil last time I cleaned, did not think of the possibility of the K&N oil contaminating the hotwire. I have heard the new clean/oil kits have a spray bottle rather than try to drip oil onto the cleaned filter.
I am in the process of reinstalling my old MAF, and installing my K&N with a cast elbo made by one of the local PCA members. he used to sell them through some distributor a few years ago that is no longer in business. his setup when dynoed increased power measurably over stock housing/filter. he has since focused on making custom high end full containment seats for La Joie. when I get it I'll post a few pics, but Ric is concerned people will want to get one and he just does not have the time to make them anymore. only has a couple left.
good luck on you problem
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tracker85,
I have the autothority MAF as well. I had some rough idle problems this winter. The engine would idle at 800 or so, then slowly drop in idle speed until the engine computer would add gas to keep it from stalling out. Then it would jump to about 1100 rpm and then setltle down and start to do the same thing all over. Sometimes it would stall out before the computer could step in.
I removed and cleaned the ICV, but that didn't help. I had the mechanic check my full throttle microswitch and the fuel pressure regulator. They were both fine. The mechanic witnessed the behavior and thought it was a rich mixture problem.
So, the other weekend I took off the MAF and cleaned the hotwire tube using some "MAF sensor" cleaner spray I found at NAPA. NOTE: this is different than carb/choke cleaner or throttle body cleaner. It is specifically for the MAF sensor. Anyway, I put 10-15 sprays of that stuff down the tube and let it dry out. Then I re-oiled the filter and re-assembled. The idle is much better! I need to drive it some more before I declare total victory, but the first 20 or so miles have exhibited no idle problems.
I have the autothority MAF as well. I had some rough idle problems this winter. The engine would idle at 800 or so, then slowly drop in idle speed until the engine computer would add gas to keep it from stalling out. Then it would jump to about 1100 rpm and then setltle down and start to do the same thing all over. Sometimes it would stall out before the computer could step in.
I removed and cleaned the ICV, but that didn't help. I had the mechanic check my full throttle microswitch and the fuel pressure regulator. They were both fine. The mechanic witnessed the behavior and thought it was a rich mixture problem.
So, the other weekend I took off the MAF and cleaned the hotwire tube using some "MAF sensor" cleaner spray I found at NAPA. NOTE: this is different than carb/choke cleaner or throttle body cleaner. It is specifically for the MAF sensor. Anyway, I put 10-15 sprays of that stuff down the tube and let it dry out. Then I re-oiled the filter and re-assembled. The idle is much better! I need to drive it some more before I declare total victory, but the first 20 or so miles have exhibited no idle problems.
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jpyles. my mechanic checked all that stuff also, and told me cleaning the hotwire may also solve it. in my case the car ran lean at idle.
thanks for the reply with your results and hope it did the trick for you.
after discussing with a number of the 'tuners' at MidOhio, a couple who had gone with the Authority MAF and also tried Ric's custom K&N to stock MAF tuned elbo got slightly better dyno results than the Autothroity MAF. and now don't have to worry about getting oil on the hotwire.
of course then I need to pull my intake and send out to be extrudehoned. after doing upgrades on my car over almost 10 years I still can't see the bottom of this slippery slope. but having fun all the way.
PS> installed full cage and Sparco seats this past winter. will post with some pics when I have time. my car is a targa and the cage really stiffended her up and now with seats I can feel her dancing through the corners like never before.
thanks for the reply with your results and hope it did the trick for you.
after discussing with a number of the 'tuners' at MidOhio, a couple who had gone with the Authority MAF and also tried Ric's custom K&N to stock MAF tuned elbo got slightly better dyno results than the Autothroity MAF. and now don't have to worry about getting oil on the hotwire.
of course then I need to pull my intake and send out to be extrudehoned. after doing upgrades on my car over almost 10 years I still can't see the bottom of this slippery slope. but having fun all the way.
PS> installed full cage and Sparco seats this past winter. will post with some pics when I have time. my car is a targa and the cage really stiffended her up and now with seats I can feel her dancing through the corners like never before.
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I replaced the plugs, wires, distrubutor cap and rotor, and coil. Ran much better but still not 100%. Felt and sounded like it was on only 5 cyclinders.
A friend took at it, and with stethascope found one of the injectors to be almost dead (hardly any noise coming from it). He swapped locations to make sure it was the wiring and it didn't work in the new location either so definately a bad injector.
I've got an event next Friday, so I need a new one by Wed. Pelican has them like $280. Is there anywhere you can get them cheaper. A friend told me you can use a Buick injector? Any ideas about that? I just need for the track event Fri, until I can get mine sent out to be cleaned.
-Scott
A friend took at it, and with stethascope found one of the injectors to be almost dead (hardly any noise coming from it). He swapped locations to make sure it was the wiring and it didn't work in the new location either so definately a bad injector.
I've got an event next Friday, so I need a new one by Wed. Pelican has them like $280. Is there anywhere you can get them cheaper. A friend told me you can use a Buick injector? Any ideas about that? I just need for the track event Fri, until I can get mine sent out to be cleaned.
-Scott