911vet

I'm not ready to invest $5k in big brakes so I'm looking for ways to cool my OE brakes.

Pelican has several options. Anyone have opinions on these systems?

Rotor Cooling System #1 $295 (top pic) or Rotor Cooling System #2 $365 (bottom pic)

911vet

Pelican also offers these...

Air Deflector Plates $70 (left pic)
Fade Stop Brake Coolers $180 (right pic)

Driver8

911vet I have an 87 Carerra and I run the stock brakes with a cooling kit (like the one in the bottom picture) and the block off plates. I do notice an increase in brake performance with the cooling kit. The key is to not let you pads wear down too low. Once they wear past 1/2 they do not effectively transfer heat away. The pads I use are Performance Friction 97's.

racer

I ran a kit like the first you posted on my SC.. Maybe sourced from AJ Racing? Those worked very well. The scoops mounted below the A-Arm were susceptible to bumps (in an AX environment on my then stock suspension SC abig bottoming out bump would cause the scoop to scrape the pavement). You might also consider running cooling hose up to the front valance and remove the stock fog lights.

x2 on watching pad "depth" as the more the pad is worn, the less available material to absord heat, thus the calipers heat up and so too the fluid.

To me, the worst offenders of brakes and those seeking more cooling tend to be in that "higher instructed group or just solod group" (usually the white run group). I share this because, after upgrading several cars brake systems over the years, it wasn't until I learned to "brake less" that the brak e system was no longer a limiting factor. In my stock 2.7 Boxster with track pads and fluid, I never had a fade issue. In my current stock 914-4 I never have a brake fade issue. But as a learning driver, I replaced the brake system of both a previous 914 and a 911SC because i thought them inferior for what had to have been my awesome drover skills .

JackOlsen

In your shoes, I'd try cheapest first: the 964/993 rubber deflectors. They're all I use for my brakes, and they've never boiled (then again, I've got Turbo brakes). But it's a good, cheap, non-destructive mod that might be all you need.

Here's a picture (originally posted by brake guru Bill Verburg):

MDL

The P/O installed the RCS. I have not experienced any braking problems in DE's at Sebring or Roebling. I know I can use the brakes more efficiently than I do, meaning I need to focus on using them less which would create even less heat. In my humble opinion you are far better off spending your $$$ on track time learning to use your brakes properly than spending money on something that will help mask any driving shortcomings. I don't know your skill level but it will probably take a while before you can drive your car to it's full potential in stock configuration. These cars are simply unbelievable.

BTW, I use the PF 97's as well.

911vet

I'm not hard on brakes. In fact, I think I'm the opposite (I never have been a "late breaker".) I've only experienced the slightest fade on two occasions at the track, but then....

... the Nissan Z that boiled it's brakes at the end of the back straight, flipped over the tire wall, over the fence, into the spectator section, and landed on its roof... that happened the weekend following my first trip to Mid Ohio.

I want to cool my brakes whether they need it or not!!

Thanks for the advice. I ran solo on my first and second DE. I get to move up into the next group on my next one... so I'm trying to prepare. I've realized that in any discipline - whether it's martial arts, target archery, or driving (all of which I practice) --- confidence is as important as skill sometimes. And that's why I like making upgrades to my car. Even if I can't outdrive what I have.

911vet

I've not seen those before. I understand where they are, but I'm not sure of their function. I assume they deflect air onto the caliper/brake line?

911vet

Racer: Great advice. And I certainly understand that no amount of equipment upgrades can compensate for my "awesome driver skills."
I plan to spend as much time on the track as I can - even though I am so awesome already

Driver8: Good point about the thick pads acting as insulation against the fluid. I'm ordering a set of Porterfields this week.

This is getting expensive... but it sure is fun.

Edward

You mention "OE" brakes, but you do not mention pads or fluid. Shall I assume you are asking this question after having flushed with a good hi-temp fluid (such as Ate Blue or Gold) and are already using a good track pad that is designed for elevated temps and rigors of track use?

If not, then your first step is to address these very basic tenets first, then evaluate from there. BTW, are you in Race, TimeTrial, AX, or DE? ...as this can help determine how "serious" you need to get about improving the hardware

Edward

JackOlsen

They're on 964's and 993's, but it's not hard to adapt them to the earlier A arms. They deflect cooling air to the rotor. Those finny things notwithstanding, it's the rotor you want to cool -- it's the thing shedding the heat. And the advantage of a simple deflector is that it's a very short and uncluttered path for the air to follow. You just have to remove the backing plates. Flexible tubes with multiple turns are not very good for airflow.

gab997

I installed the pelican kit on my 84 and it does a great job. I am have ss lines and run srf and have no fade while give the brakes a good work out at the the track.

911vet

Hi Ed,
Sorry for the omission... this thread is a carry over from a previous one. I had answered those questions in that thread but not here.

I've been using ATE Racing Blue but have been advised by others there are some better options. I flushed the system prior to my first DE and bled it twice prior to the second. I also installed new flexi lines and some new hard lines. I've been using cheap stock OE pads (Jurid) and plan to get Porterfield R4 pads before my next time on the track.

I am doing DE events only.

g-50cab

I use the 993 deflectors now - but before I used the A-arm scoops from AJ USA. I think the A-arm with the block off plates that force air are out the rotors are the more effective.

If I was going to rate them on efficiency

#1 ducts through the front bumper leading straight back to the rotors
#2 A-Arm Scoops -
#3 993 deflectors
#4 Just removing dust shields
#5 Stock brakes

911pcars

When all else fails (i.e. premium brake fluid, 6 piston calipers, forced air cooling, brake pad insulation, large rotors, etc.) or when race regs. limit brake upgrades, there's this - water spray cooling:

Sherwood
As equipped on Gentilozzi's TransAm Jags:
http://seinesystems.com/MPC-BrakeCool-Jag.htm