Edward

Anyone ever replace the fuel tank sender on an SC? My gauge is acting erratically ...the sender is more likely at fault over the dash gauge is my guess. Thoughts?? TIA


Edward

Steve Weiner-Rennsport Systems

Edward,

Changing a tire is more difficult than replacing a fuel tank sender in an SC/Carrera,...

Edward

Great ...then I'm in trouble

As always, Thanks, Steve!!!

Edward

Peter Zimmermann

LOL! Pull back the carpet near the brake booster, trace the black wire harness to the top of the tank, remove the five nuts & washers (and the small cover over the harness plug), and slowly lift the sender out of the tank (it has to drain as you pull it up).

When you order a new sender make sure that you order a gasket, for some reason they're separate parts.

Edward

Cool. Thanks, Pete! (You guys are awesome, both of you! ...we are lucky fellows to have you gents here!!!)


Edward

EDIT: Ha ha ha (gasp!). $100 from Pelican ...after my 993 clutch bill, I think I can wait
Still, thanks, guys!!

ron mcatee

Be sure to unhook the battery so htere are no electrical surprises or fire.

3.2SLANTNOSE

Before replacing parts, check to make sure that all of the wiring connections, on the circuit, including the sender and the gauge set, are CLEAN and TIGHT. After doing this, if it is still acting up, you may want to pull the sending unit, and check its function with a volt meter for operation. The gauge should also be tested along with taking a close look at the wiring. It may be a broken wire. If anything is found to be defective, then I would replace what is needed, particularly if it causes, or makes the possibility of running out of gas.(Major PITA)

Just what type of erratic operation is happening and being displayed on the gauge? Good luck!! Tony.

Edward

Hey Tony,

Fact is, I was being a bit lazy. I haven't checked all the wiring yet, but I know I should. I figured the car is an 82 fer cryin out loud, so immediately assume the sender is at fault, and so was thinking of just replacing it ...until I priced it. The problem is simply erratic/inaccurate needle ...it's one place at this moment, then another place 5 minutes later, then moves again. A bit of a PITA as it's not 100% trustworthy, but at least the reserve light "seems" to be reasonably accurate ...I hope

Edward

Barry A. Waters

Edward,

Here's my experience with this issue (and as ALWAYS I have MUCH FUN with the car and it's maintenance!).

Several years ago my fuel gauge also stopped working so after a few electrical tests showed the gauge and wiring were not at fault, I went to remove the sending unit from the tank which is indeed a simple process.

First of all, DO disconnect your battery and make sure you open the tank OUTSIDE (and not in a confined garage) AND with a fire bottle or two handy!

As I started to slowley extract the sender I was amazed at the bare wires and slide/float assembly I was looking at. I was expecting to see a smooth aluminum cylinder revealed. AH HA! My first GOTCHA!

My problem was that the small nut & split lock washer that secures the sender's surrounding cylinder (at the very bottom of the cylinder) had somehow come off the the central rod of the sender and had dropped down an inch or so (it can't drop far as when it's installed the sender's bottom is almost at the bottom of the tank anyway) and jammed the float from moving either up or down.

The bad news is that I removed the remainder of the sender assembly but still had the cylinder floating around in the tank! Needless to say, the nut and its washer were also somewhere in the deep!

After 45 minutes of fishing around in the 3/4 full tank with some stiff wire, I finally figured out how to get the errant tube in the proper vertical position to allow me to extract it through the small opening for the sender. This was a very tedious operaton to say the least!

Once the tube was out I was able to source a replacement nut and lock washer, reassemble the sender and test it. No problems! After reinstallation (with a new gasket!) all was well except that I now have the original nut and washer somewhere in the tank, which my local Porsche shop assures me is OK due to a screen in the tanks pick-up assembly which is prior to the fuel pump. Whew!

After two years of joy the gauge went into a 'wacky' mode. It would sometimes not register more that 3/4 full, even when filled, and would sometimes 'stick' at a certain level and not move at all!

Out it came again (this time w/surrounding cylinder!) and I disassembled it to find that one of the two stainless steel 'guide wires' for the float had some 'crud' on it which inhibited the up/down movement of the float assembly. Some careful cleaning of the guide wires w/fine grit abrasive paper (be carefull as the wires are THIN!) gave the float a smooth ride and I cleaned things up and did the reassembly and install (again w/new gasket).

All has now been fine for quite a while so I'm happy with my two fixes/ventures into the world of the SC/Carrera fuel sender. Hope YOUR foray leads to the same results but without the diversions I encountered!

Best Regards!

Barry

dtunnicliffe

HI guys (and gals,,).
My problem is slightly different.. We have just completed the Stelvio Tour 2009 taking in 10 passes in the Austrian, Italian and Swiss Alps. Fantastic to say the least. I discovered on descending the San Bernadino Pass and stopping for fuel that the breather was blocked. The vacuum stuffed the sender unit resulting in a reading of three-quarter full, regardless of quantity of fuel in the tank. So, I ordered the new sender on return to UK (genuine Porsche item) and on arrival set about installation. Firstly removing the old unit was difficult in that it was well and truly stuck against the lower side of the tank. (shoulder arrangement surrounding the steering rack in firm contact with lower end of sender). On removal it was clear that the tank had suffered 'minor' vacuum damage - although not evident from above or below. (the slightest displacement of the long sender alloy tube will cause it to foul against the shoulder which effectively 'grips' the sender). Offering the new sender into place we came against the same problem. The last 8 to 10mm of travel is restricted/stopped by the sender coming into contact with the 'shoulder'.
Porsche's answer 'replace the tank sir'. My reply unrepeatable here.. It goes into an independent Porsche Specialist on Monday who assures me he will 'tweak' the flange to get the correct alignment if necessary!

So beware. Enjoy the Alps if you can - highly recommended in a Porsche, but as a precaution, back off the filler cap a fraction to be sure the tank is well vented!

If anyone has a sure fire way of fixing this ahead of Monday, I'd love to know it.

Cheers

Dave

BlackPearl

My fuel gauge was mis-reading, never going below 1/4 tank. I assumed it was the sender. I ordered a new sending unit. I pulled the wires of the old sender, put them on the new sender in my hand, and slowly tilted the new sender to check it's effectiveness. Turns out, my sender was good and the gauge was bad! I returned the sender (those are expensive!!), and hunted up a replacement gauge at a local dismantlers. $10.00. Replaced the old gauge with the replacement one. All good. 1/8 tank is 1/8th tank. Red light works. No worries. No mis-reads.

Before you pull the old sender out of the tank, I'd recommend checking to see if the gauge is mis-reading.

Good luck!!

dtunnicliffe

Thanks BlackPearl. You're correct in your suggestion of course. However I did the impedance test before ordering the replacement. it is faulty however. Shame!

Cheers

Dave