Door lock broke
The other day I noticed that the driver's side door isn't locking on my '86 with central locking system. I have an aftermarket remote security system installed that activates the central locking. It locks the passenger side but not the driver's side.
But here's where it gets weird: I can lock the driver's side manually with the **** but I can't lock it with the key from the outside. To make matters worse, when I use the key on the outside it activates the central locking system and locks the passenger side.
My mechanic said it was the mechanical arm that extends from the key lock to the lock mechanism. I think it's a loose wire or blown solenoid in the lock - assuming that the key lock in the door is purely an electronic switch activating the central locking system.
Anybody else have ideas? I haven't take the door apart to check. I'd like to have an idea of what I'll encounter when I get in there.
But here's where it gets weird: I can lock the driver's side manually with the **** but I can't lock it with the key from the outside. To make matters worse, when I use the key on the outside it activates the central locking system and locks the passenger side.
My mechanic said it was the mechanical arm that extends from the key lock to the lock mechanism. I think it's a loose wire or blown solenoid in the lock - assuming that the key lock in the door is purely an electronic switch activating the central locking system.
Anybody else have ideas? I haven't take the door apart to check. I'd like to have an idea of what I'll encounter when I get in there.
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From: Parafield Gardens
Dear Eric,
The central locking system is actually an electro-mechanical assistance system. When you turn the key in the lock, you mechanically open the lock by applying a mechanical leverage to the mechanism as well as supplying an earth signal to the central locking unit. This is why if power is lost the doors can still be unlocked and locked from the outside. You will notice that when you unlock the door, the door lock **** only comes partly the way up.
If the passengers side still locks this means at least one part of the controller is functioning. The central lock control unit is a very simple device. It switches 12VDC and a ground to the door actuator via two relays. One for drivers door and one for the pax door. One way puts an earth on one side and power on the other of the door actuator, and vice versa.
I suggest that you check that you have 12VDC being supplied to the doors. You can actually check this easily by removing the plug from the central locking unit and jumpering the correct pins, as per your wiring diagrams. I recommend you do this before making any major expenses.
You will need the wiring diagrams for your model. I have a great drawing for the 964 series which I believe is very similar to the 3.2s but I am not 100% sure. I suspect an electrical problem rather than a mechanical one. The reason for this assumption. The fuse is not blown. If the actuator jams up or shorts out, then the fuse is normally blown. Same fuse for both doors.
Ciao,
Adrian
911C4
The central locking system is actually an electro-mechanical assistance system. When you turn the key in the lock, you mechanically open the lock by applying a mechanical leverage to the mechanism as well as supplying an earth signal to the central locking unit. This is why if power is lost the doors can still be unlocked and locked from the outside. You will notice that when you unlock the door, the door lock **** only comes partly the way up.
If the passengers side still locks this means at least one part of the controller is functioning. The central lock control unit is a very simple device. It switches 12VDC and a ground to the door actuator via two relays. One for drivers door and one for the pax door. One way puts an earth on one side and power on the other of the door actuator, and vice versa.
I suggest that you check that you have 12VDC being supplied to the doors. You can actually check this easily by removing the plug from the central locking unit and jumpering the correct pins, as per your wiring diagrams. I recommend you do this before making any major expenses.
You will need the wiring diagrams for your model. I have a great drawing for the 964 series which I believe is very similar to the 3.2s but I am not 100% sure. I suspect an electrical problem rather than a mechanical one. The reason for this assumption. The fuse is not blown. If the actuator jams up or shorts out, then the fuse is normally blown. Same fuse for both doors.
Ciao,
Adrian
911C4
On the repair - did you replace the whole mechanism or is there a way to fix the existing one? Of course that probably can't be answered without seeing just how mine is broken. I do have access to welding equipment.
Eric--am not sure I remember--it was about eight years ago. Seems to me it was a replaceable pull rod and since I don't remember being PO'ed--it was reasonably priced and easily replaced. I do some digging and see what I can come up with.

