rnln

I plan to replace this starter yellow/signal wire between the pedal cluster (floor panel to be exact) to the firewall in the engine compartment.

My plan is to cut this yellow wire at the firewall in the engine compartment, solder another wire there, then pull the yellow wire from the cabin at the rear seat. What I affraid is if there is any split (for other components such as AC, Radio, etc) between this distant. If there is, then I can't just pull it.

Another thing I affraid is if it snap? Then I have to cut off the big plastic sleeve (which go through the outside and underneath the car), which I don't want to.

I don't want to just cut it off and run another wire because if there is a split between this distant, then the other components will keep running while I start the car.

Has anyone done this. If so, please give me a hint?

3.2SLANTNOSE

When I replaced mine several years ago, I chose to use an alternate routing for the new #50 yellow wire. i left the original yellow wire just where it was, but I ran the new wire the easiest pathway that I could find, in case I ever needed to replace it again. The old wire is not connected on either end, and I have a flex-tie securing it to the other starter wire bundle, so it would not just be hanging loose. The reason I replaced it, was due to its age, it would cause a no-start(no-cranking) fault, but I could let it roll off and it would fire up every time. When I checked the yellow #50 wire with a meter, it would show continuity, but when attempting to crank the engine, the voltage would fall off so much, it would not allow the starter to function. It would do this sometime when it was a hot, or even a cold start. It had a mind of its own. I corrected that with the new #50 wire that I installed. I did not even attempt to follow the placement of the original yellow wire, due to the PITA factor, and the new wire is unseen, just as the factory wire was. Find the easiest, most direct path for your application. I believe I posted about this at the time when I did it, here and on Pelican. Good luck!! Tony.

psychoideas

Hi Guys,
A friend of mine had a simmilar starting problem and his auto elec used his existing yellow wire to switch a relay he attached to the starter. The main power for the relay came from the primary battery cable at the starter. Works a treat. No current loss.

rnln

Frank,
I will do the same thing, relay, but I don't want to reuse the old yellow wire incase it is damage somewhere. Sometimes, I do hear a sparkle sound while tiwsting the key. I don't want sparkle.

3.2SLANTNOSE,
Seem like we have an exact problem. It has been there for a long time. Replacing the starter helps a little but it still there. I thought about replacing it the way you did but I don't know where/how the function of turning off AC/radio works. What if the yellow wire is spliting somewhere within the distant you replaced this wire?

What I meant was If you notice, when you twist your key to start the car, you Ac/radio will temporarily shut down for the car to crank the starter. I think there must be some wires somewhere to deactivate these components but I am not sure where. If those wires are spliting from the yellow wire at the dash, I am fine. If it split somewhere between the rear seat to the engine compartment, I can't do this.

I am not sure if my writing is clear enough. If not, please let me know I'll do it again.
Thanks.

3.2SLANTNOSE

rnln, I can't remember, what is the year your car??? I am thinking you said it was an 86 model at some other time, and it may have a little bit of difference in the wiring schematics. You might need to trace out the circuit in a Bentley Manual wiring diagram for your year model. Tony.

rnln

it's an 87, but I think all cars has this feature, right?
Why don't you try it on yours. If you can turn on your key, not starting the car. Then turn on your radio and AC. Then start the car. When you twist your key to start the car, AC and radio will be turnning off temporaily.