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Brake fluid flush

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Old 08-25-2008, 04:49 PM
  #16  
Steely
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Thanks John - guess that gets added to my winter list.
- wow, thread grew since I asked.
Old 08-25-2008, 06:12 PM
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genripper
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Bleeding the clutch is relevant only on G50 cars, right?
Old 08-25-2008, 06:18 PM
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madmmac
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Originally Posted by genripper
Bleeding the clutch is relevant only on G50 cars, right?
True, 915 trans is the cable.
Old 08-26-2008, 12:16 PM
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BlackPearl
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Originally Posted by madmmac
Many reports of a leaking master cylinder after using the pedal pump to the floor method.

Piston goes beyond its normal range and the seal gets gouged by the accumulated crud/corrosion on it.
Yes, this is true. The key here is in your statement: "pedal pump to the floor." With the hand-to-pedal method you only "tap" the pedal 1" to maybe 2" and focus on preventing the pedal from going all the way to the floor. The trick is to tap the pedal quickly to give a short, hard "blast" or "surge" to dislodge gunk/air. With fluid in the tube/bottle, no air can "reverse-surge" or "back-surge" into the bleeder valve/caliper. Tubing and bleeder bottle are key to any brake-bleeding procedure, IMHO.

How long does it take you on each corner with this method?
Usually I need to leave the bleeder valve open about 10 to 15 minutes per wheel/caliper depending on air/fluid temp. When the Fluid changes color from old fluid to new fluid, I close the bleeder valve and move on. I alternate between Blue and Gold fluids to be sure I'm in fresh fluid.
Old 08-26-2008, 12:49 PM
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MUSSBERGER
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Originally Posted by Ed Hughes
Mine gets done every 6 months or each DE, whichever comes first. Motul RBF600 is the stuff I use, higher thresholds than ATE, and not crazy expensive like Castrol SRF.
Ed you flush with each DE?



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