carnick

Well it finally happened! Went to take her out tonite for a dinner date with the wife and got no response - from the car that is!! ('88 911 Targa w/103K)

The first time she's let me down - the car that is!! Dead, nothing, failed to connect... got lights and all power but nothing from the engine. (maybe she's jealous of the wife???)

Checked fuses and all looked good; giggled the ignition - still nothing. I have a spare DME - should that be the first thing to do?

HELP - she's getting hungrier by the minute - the wife that is!!

Thanks,
Nick

justinsrx7

I would try the DME first as that is easy to install and rule out. Is the car even turning over? if so but not catching, check the two fuel pump relays in the front fuse box.

old man neri

Is it cranking or not?

carnick

Thanks - no turning over.

Nothing from the engine - just like a dead battery.

JV911

can i state the obvious and ask if its a dead battery?

there may be enough left in it to make the dask lights come on but not to crank the starter

or do you have some sort of kill switch?

old man neri

Maybe try to push start it? Not to sure if that would cause harm but I doubt it.

Antony.

I'd check for voltage at the starter motor.

carnick

Antony -

Thanks - how do I check the voltage at the starter motor. Also, if the DME or ignition switch is faulty, will the starter motor be live?

I've had a friend recommend checking both the starter motor and ignition switch - how do I do that?

Thanks-
Nick

KC911

I assume you mean the DME relay, and assuming you "know" the spare is good, absolutely try that first. FWIW, the DME relay also contains the fuel pump relay, and for your car, that is it...there are no other fuel pump relays in the fuse box (but since it's not turning over, it doesn't sound like it's fuel pump related). What voltage is showing at your battery? It really just sounds like a dead battery. Good luck!

Keith
'88 CE coupe

Antony.

Ok assuming you have a fully charged battery, the DME relay is good or swapped (I don't think this would have any effect on the starter from what I can see in the diagrams) and you turn the key and nothing happens but all other electrics on the car work here's how to check the starter motor from the bentley book.

The starter is located on the passenger side of the tranny up on top. There's 4 connections. two big terminals numbered 1 and 3(terminal 3 is next to the tranny housing) and two spade terminals numbered 2 and 4, terminal 2 is vertical and 4 is horizontal.

_______
|-- 2--- |
|-1---3-|
|---4----|

Terminal
1. Terminal 30 from battery
2. Terminal 50 from ignition switch
3. Starter field winding
4. Terminal 15 -- not used

To test for an ignition switch problem: Turn key to start. Test for at least 7.5V at term 50. If not bad switch or open in wiring from ignition
To test for solenoid fault: Turn key to start. Test for at least 7.5V at term 3. If not bad solenoid.
To test for starter motor fault: Turn key to start. Test for at least 7.5V at term 3. If not bad starter. Which is same as above so maybe this is a typo in the bentley manual?

I'd also check for battery voltage at terminal 1.

I haven't had this problem on the 911 but I have had trouble with a starter on my old toy pickup: In that case it would just click as the solenoid activated. My starter contacts were worn and it was easy to pull the starter and replace the contacts. Dunno if that's doable on these cars.

The ignition switch wire is yellow btw.

I've also read about faulty alarm connections disabling things but I think that was only the fuel pump, I'll have a look for that tonight.

Hope this helps,
Antony

carnick

Antony -

That's great!!

Thanks for the information - I'll post my findings.



Nick

carnick

Well finally got her started today - anyone care to guess how?

If you said push and pop, you're a winner! That's right - I push started her after trying to troubleshoot the ignition system as best I could. It wasn't the battery (12.6 v. at terminals) - couldn't find any loose wiring at ignition switch or at the starter.

Anyway I got it to the shop and guess what? It started right up as I explained the problem to them!! So now I've got an intermitant issue - only happens under a full moon?? They will dive into it tomorrow .

So given this info, does anyone have any ideas? I'm trying to figure out what the push start tells me? Ignition switch OK? Obviously the starter is OK or it wouldn't have started at the shop. Some short occuring somewhere - is there a relay in the ignition system that could be faulty?

Still searching for the cause - any help is much appreciated.


Thanks-
Nick

84_Carrera

Ignition switch likely target. If it starts to get worse, like it'll start 75% of the time you turn the key, then 50%, etc. - it's exactly as mine was, and it was the mechanical side of the ignition switch, not the electrical side on mine. Most often I think it's the electrical side that's the issue though. The electrical switch can run you around $30 from memory, where the full mechanical & electrical is $400-$500 for the part.

I now have a used mechanical switch w/ new key for the bargain basement price of $200 installed on mine.

Good luck!

3.2SLANTNOSE

The yellow ignition source wire that goes to the starter has been a problem point for many of the 3.2 and other engined cars. Lights work, radio, etc, but when you go to start the engine, it makes no sound at all. I had to replace my yellow wire, after I had a few no-starts because of it. The wire was intact, and tested with a voltmeter, but when you turned the key to actually crank the engine,the voltage would just drop out too low for it to do it job. It would show the right voltage, but when trying to start it would not carry enough voltage or current to make the starter work. I replaced mine about 9yrs ago now, have not had any further issues with it. I believe that I posted here about my findings and the repair, also on Pelican. Good luck!! Tony.

Batman 357

I had a battery cable go bad with simular symptoms. Lot's of stuff got checked and changed before I got to the cable.